ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hey all! Im really close to getting my car back together. One thing I really want to do is, is re-plumb my front brakes. Here is what I have going on now...

4th gen booster and 4th gen master cylinder. Rear circuit comes out of the master, into a wilwood adj prop valve, then to the rear axle where it splits to each side of the 4th gen rear disc setup. Im completely ok with the rear circuit.

The fronts come out of the master cylinder, go into a line lock solenoid, and then split. The passenger side runs down, and along the k-member. This makes it a PITA to drop the k-member and motor, because the brakes have to be disconnected. That really is the worst part of removing the motor. I have brand new calipers too. Now is the time.

So...I would really like to run everything so that in the event that I have to drop the motor again, I can just hang the calipers in the wheel wells, and leave the braking system completely intact.

My first thought was to run the drivers side line down like it is now, then run the passenger up over the trans tunnel. Sort of follow the lower edge of the firewall. This would still keep it below the master, but would create a high spot that might be troublesome.

Another thought is to run it forward, down along the rad support, and over to the caliper that way. At least this would keep it low, and wouldnt create any mid stream high spots.

Anyone have any thoughts? What I have no is slightly cobbled together. The fittings are showing wear from me taking them apart and re-assembling. So Its time to freshen it up. I have a motive power bleeder, so I can do a nice solid bleed.

In Jeeps that Ive built and been around, Ive seen the brake lines run all sorts of ways. The one that comes to mind is the old YJ Wranglers. Their front brake line crosses at bumper height to the passenger side. I think its doable.

J.

tvc 15

I don't have any ideas. But you might be on to something.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Recently on LS1Tech I have seen several foreign builds where the brake lines run over the tunnel from the factory like that, I dont think you'll have any problems. I think I saw a Miata and several BMW's with the lines over the tunnel.

I too, think you're onto something

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Yeah Ive seen it too. Just wasn't sure if there were special provisions that let them do it. As long as I bleed the crap out of it, I don't think Ill have any major issues. Ill know right away if there's air in there.

I think the key might be to go forward with the lines. Because the rear bolt of the k-member (shortest one) is pretty far back from where the lines would drop. To go around that might be a pain.

Going around to the front of the k-member might offer difficulty with meeting up with the bracket and hose though. I gotta get the parts in front of me and figure it out. Motor is going in before the lines are made, so Ill just work around everything. If I get anywhere, Ill be sure to post...or if anyone has more ideas/suggestions/feedback!

J.

EDIT: Found some pictures of my front end. Looks like coming around the front might be an issue.





THIS is the ugliness that is sparking this redo. I hate this... I actually re-used 4th gen hardlines. Pretty sure they are stainless tubing, and are a total BI**H to flare and bend. But I got it working...I just hate it. Notice to get my steering shaft out is an issue too. Another reason I want to change to a Jeep shaft.

IT NEVER ENDS!!!!

novaderrik

i'm not 100% certain, but i'm thinking that Fox Mustangs run the brake line across the firewall..

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I think youre right. I think Im going to go along the firewall if I can swing it. Gotta see how it will be going around the clutch master cylinder, steering shaft, etc etc. I also have my clutch hyd line going through the firewall.

Since I didn't get my motor in today like I wanted, I might mess with some ideas before it goes in just to have more room. Actually, come to think of it, if I run along the firewall, Ill need to do that before the motor goes in. Or else I wont be able to drill/screw in the clips for the line. Hmm...

J.

myroc86

Definitely go along the firewall. Thats what I plan on doing with mine when I get to that point.


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Just wanted to update...

I re-ran my lines yesterday. And Im pretty happy with how they turned out. The only thing Im concerned about is the "bubble" flare I tried to do where the hard line connects to the front hoses. The tool I was using is crap and Im going to have to keep an eye on the connection for leaks.

First, remember that my front lines go from the master cylinder to a line lock. And I used a kit, so everything up until the new lines was all pre-fabbed and how Ive been running it for a while. I KNOW there is a better way to do it, and I plan to do another re-vamp after the car is on the road a while.

I basically ran the passenger side from the "Tee" after the line lock, straight forward past the steering box. Then dropped it down, and ran it along the bottom of the rad support. The 60" brake line I used was perfect. It did need a union, but the union ended up being right where the rad drain sits. The next piece I used was able to connect to the union, then do a 90* turn to go around the k-member.

Driver side was easy. I just followed the other line and dropped it right next to the steering box and brought it out.

Im going to have to check my clearances, but I think I should be ok. If not, I can make new lines pretty easy. I was going to go along the firewall, but there's too much stuff there now. I can drop my k-member if I need to without disconnecting a single brake line!!

Here are some pictures, tho they're hard to see.

Here is where the passenger side line comes out. I could have made tighter bends, but I wanted clean bends with my bender. So I just did them as tight as it would allow me.



From there it drops down and makes a turn under the radiator support.



It follows across the support, under the lip. I plan to secure it along the way but havent yet. You can see the union right in the cut out area for the rad drain. Still room for the drain, and I can easily get to the union if I have to.



Then out and contoured along where the k-member meets the chassis. Mostly hand bent and I plan to tweak it a little more.



Driver side is the same til the steering box.



Where it makes the turn behind the snout of the box and under to the driver side wheel well area.





I realize the driver line is close to the header. I am going to cut the ends off, and reflare them with smaller nuts to bring them in. For now, I just used a plug heat boot and zip tied it around the lines.



Im going to re-flare, and maybe do something different with that "Tee" fitting there. It'll come away from the header before Im driving it regularily.

But thats it. We'll see how it goes when I bleed them and see if I dont have any leaks (yeah right) haha.

J.