I'm installing 1LE rear calipers on my 85 drum brake 10 bolt using Ed's brackets. I have both sides mounted in a trailing configuration.

On the driver caliper, when I slide the caliper all the way inboard, the bleeder screw hits the mounting for the panhard bar. How much does the caliper slide during normal operation? Since some years had the solid line connect directly to the caliper I'm guessing not much.

Is this normal and/or cause for concern?

Here is a video of how much it slides before hitting.

 

Put the rotor on there, and center the caliper on the rotor. I'll bet you end up shimming the caliper out a bit. You should have shims in the kit to space the caliper to match the rotor, and that'll also move the caliper away from the axle. Alternatively a ball peen hammer could clearance that bracket and the dyno would never show a difference. Another thing is all the aftermarket PBR bleeder screws are longer than the originals, but that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Good call on the rotor, entirely possible with pads in that it would bottom out on the rotor long before the bleeder screw would hit.

I really don't want to result to modifying the rear end because it would f'up the powder coat.

 

The rear pads aren't very thick, and I've never noticed them to wear appreciably. I've only ever changed them as a 'feel-good' kind of thing. Chances of them wearing far enough to contact are pretty slim.

The bigger thing is that when you get the rotor mounted, the center of the caliper opening will probably have to be shimmed out to match the rotor anyway. GM did it with a shim between the backing plate and the mounting flange on the axle tube. Ed's kit uses shims (washers) between the backing plate and the caliper carrier, like virtually every rear disc kit on the planet.

Most likely you'll have plenty of room when it's all assembled.

 

The shims only are needed for the carrier not to hit the rotor if I understand correctly. In theory, you could mount only the carrier without the caliper to see if spacers are needed no?

Maybe I was right to do so (maybe not), all I needed to do on the right side was take away a little material from the carrier and it was dead centered.

take it there's variation in carrier & rotor tolerances?

 

More likely the tolerances in question are the backing plate flanges on the axle tubes. But at this point, with aftermarket rotors, rusty axles, etc there's a bit more to consider. I'd mock it up, look it over, and go from there.

 

Here's mine with rotors/pads in place. I've experienced zero issues.

JamesC

 

Im following this thread. Ive also done the PRB brakes and I know exactly what you mean about the bleeder being super close to the bracket. I dont think mine makes contact however the brakes also dont work great either. I find that they barely stop the rotor at idle with the car jacked up. They've been bled plenty by pumping, vac and pressure bleeding. Ive got a good pedal and ive changed to the strongest spring, just not great braking strength. I cant wait to see what your results are Nbressette. Also anyone else on here, what was your results from doing it?

 

When you say you're on the strongest spring. Are you referring to the spring inside the prop valve? I'd be curious if other share your experience about the braking strength of the rear 1le calipers.

Your bleeder looks a lot shorter than mine as well, this must be what Drew was saying about new bleeders being taller.

 

Here's what I mean about the currently available bleeders being longer than the originals. The OEM bleeders were shorter, and fit closer in to the caliper, plus the barb was shorter. It's not so annoying with new calipers, but when replacing the bleeders on the original calipers, the OEM bleeder covers don't fit the aftermarket bleeders at all.

I've looked everywhere for the original bleeders, and all I've been able to find are the style Dorman carries (shiny in the photo). Even the new PBR calipers come with these bleeders. If anyone finds a source for the originals, let me know, I'd love to go back to the OEM dust cap.

 

Yeah im using the 1ncf2 spring, which was the stronger option. I tried bleeding those bastards again last night. Firm pedal, still couldnt stop the rear wheel from spinning at idle off the ground

 

What is your brake hose & banjo bolt setup? This is one mistake I caught during assembly. I would double check that your have a banjo bolt that isn't too long and is designed for the same height banjo your hose has. My goodridge hoses are 8mm tall banjos, if I had used the factory bannjo bolts which are designed for a taller banjo not only would the holes not line up but the banjo bolt would bottom out. This could really reduce flow and thus reduce clamping power.

 

the only problem ya might have with it that close is bleeding. with the fluid spraying the pan hard bracket . my 92Z28 is made the same way.. even when I ordered the 9" bolt in..its not going to hit with Brake pads under use..BUT I did drill a 1/2" hole in the side of the bracket. to slip a tube over the bleeder to keep the fluid from spraying all over the rear end.. NOTE: there are 2 walls to drill.. the outside wall and a 2nd wall on the inside its at a 45deg angle.. ( this will keep things clean) when bleeding..