70 AMP alternator should be plenty for this right?
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
70 AMP alternator should be plenty for this right?
Ive already had two alternators "NeverLast" die on me this year and the third is pooping out now. They were installed correctly and the only things that are drawing any real amount off current are the cd player and the 300 watt amp. A 70 amp alternator should be plenty right?
The battery isnt faulty its an automotive deepcycle, tests great and is the only thing keeping me from being stranded no other electrical things are amiss either.
Thanks!
The battery isnt faulty its an automotive deepcycle, tests great and is the only thing keeping me from being stranded no other electrical things are amiss either.
Thanks!
Last edited by SSC; Nov 2, 2002 at 10:34 AM.
Just out of curiousity, have you tried a non-deep cycle battery? What are the CCAs on your current battery?
70 amps looks fine with what info you have, but it certainly can't hurt to up it a bit when this one goes.
70 amps looks fine with what info you have, but it certainly can't hurt to up it a bit when this one goes.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
I honestly dont know the CCA on this deep cycle. Its a better than stock diesel truck replacment from American Battery listed for automotive use. I could see a larger battery making the alternator work harder but then again a stock replacement diesel truck alt is a 70amp also so go figure. I still can find any other electrical reason besides the extra juice the stereo requires which is nill. I thought a 70 should be plenty so I guess it time for another free replacment alternator.
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Get a higher output alternator.
I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.
I'm runing a 180 right now.
Been on over a year, no problems...
I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.
I'm runing a 180 right now.
Been on over a year, no problems...
I would go with nothing less than a 105 amp alt.. F body came stock with 105 amp.. It's better if you can get a higher amp alt if you running a lott of electronics like me. I have a 180 amp.
Check my sig.
Check my sig.
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by Kj Rockz
I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.
I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
I only listen to the Stereo when driving other then the juice required to run the flashing led on the head unit and the sub power wire there is no other source draining voltage, its shut down until I start it up 3 times a day, 3, 10 minute trips.
I havent gotten a new alternator yet but when the bass hits the lights definetly flicker.
I havent gotten a new alternator yet but when the bass hits the lights definetly flicker.
What is the fuse rating on your amp? That'll give you an idea of how much more current is being drawn (I know that's a bad term for it). It could be just enough to impair the alternator's ability to both run the accessories and recharge the battery.
Upgrading to a 105 amp alternator would be pretty cheap. You could risk going to a scrap heap, but new ones should be fairly cheap too. They're a pretty standard gm part.
Upgrading to a 105 amp alternator would be pretty cheap. You could risk going to a scrap heap, but new ones should be fairly cheap too. They're a pretty standard gm part.
If you have the spec sheet for the amp -check the current draw. Some amps will pull 30 AMPS or mor at full tilt. Im taking a wild (but accurate) guess that the alternator in our cars do not have 30 amps worth of extra capacity to spare. Factor this in when you're driving at night, with the wipers on and the brights on with the stereo up. Watch your volt meter. Chances are that it drops like a rock when the bass hits. If your amp sucks more EXTRA current than the alternator can replace the battery will get killed slowly every time. Figure that all of the cars accessories add up to, say, 90 amps and you have a 105 amp alternator (plenty for the car) the math seems pretty simple and the high current killer (your amp) strikes again. Check that current rating!!
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Thanks for all the input guys! I do appreciate it.:hail:
I finally found my manual, the amp and sub are locked under the cargo cover and I dont know where I stashed the key
.
The amp has a 25 fuse and is turned down all the way. The bass boost and other functions are also off, just enough bass to feel.
Before the past two alternator's just droped dead with no fluctuating volt meter they just pooped out. This one is giving the signs but periodicly. One minute it will be on 14v the next it will drop down to 11 the lights dimming are a sure sign the guage is not faulty. Id consider getting a Cap and a higher output alternaotr but the cash flow is _________.
I finally found my manual, the amp and sub are locked under the cargo cover and I dont know where I stashed the key
. The amp has a 25 fuse and is turned down all the way. The bass boost and other functions are also off, just enough bass to feel.
Before the past two alternator's just droped dead with no fluctuating volt meter they just pooped out. This one is giving the signs but periodicly. One minute it will be on 14v the next it will drop down to 11 the lights dimming are a sure sign the guage is not faulty. Id consider getting a Cap and a higher output alternaotr but the cash flow is _________.
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