70 AMP alternator should be plenty for this right?

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Nov 2, 2002 | 10:30 AM
  #1  
Ive already had two alternators "NeverLast" die on me this year and the third is pooping out now. They were installed correctly and the only things that are drawing any real amount off current are the cd player and the 300 watt amp. A 70 amp alternator should be plenty right?
The battery isnt faulty its an automotive deepcycle, tests great and is the only thing keeping me from being stranded no other electrical things are amiss either.
Thanks!
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Nov 2, 2002 | 11:59 AM
  #2  
Just out of curiousity, have you tried a non-deep cycle battery? What are the CCAs on your current battery?

70 amps looks fine with what info you have, but it certainly can't hurt to up it a bit when this one goes.
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Nov 2, 2002 | 03:00 PM
  #3  
I honestly dont know the CCA on this deep cycle. Its a better than stock diesel truck replacment from American Battery listed for automotive use. I could see a larger battery making the alternator work harder but then again a stock replacement diesel truck alt is a 70amp also so go figure. I still can find any other electrical reason besides the extra juice the stereo requires which is nill. I thought a 70 should be plenty so I guess it time for another free replacment alternator.
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Nov 2, 2002 | 03:05 PM
  #4  
are you draining your battery alot and then having the alt. charge it up? that will kill em REALLY fast
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Nov 2, 2002 | 04:57 PM
  #5  
Get a higher output alternator.

I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.


I'm runing a 180 right now.
Been on over a year, no problems...
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Nov 3, 2002 | 11:01 AM
  #6  
I would go with nothing less than a 105 amp alt.. F body came stock with 105 amp.. It's better if you can get a higher amp alt if you running a lott of electronics like me. I have a 180 amp.

Check my sig.
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Nov 3, 2002 | 03:42 PM
  #7  
camaro_60181 what model amp do you have?
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Nov 3, 2002 | 07:46 PM
  #8  
i agree that 70 is not enuff, i have a 78 amp alt, and my lights dim when the bass hits, i have over 600w though
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Nov 3, 2002 | 08:05 PM
  #9  
Quote:
Originally posted by Kj Rockz
I thought the cars cam with a 105 stock.
105 amp alts were the CS alts. The SI alts were 94 amps and 67(I think).
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Nov 3, 2002 | 08:44 PM
  #10  
Quote:
camaro_60181 what model amp do you have?

I have a total of three alpine v12's

mrv501 x2 and one mrv1002
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Nov 4, 2002 | 08:00 PM
  #11  
I only listen to the Stereo when driving other then the juice required to run the flashing led on the head unit and the sub power wire there is no other source draining voltage, its shut down until I start it up 3 times a day, 3, 10 minute trips.
I havent gotten a new alternator yet but when the bass hits the lights definetly flicker.
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Nov 5, 2002 | 12:56 AM
  #12  
What is the fuse rating on your amp? That'll give you an idea of how much more current is being drawn (I know that's a bad term for it). It could be just enough to impair the alternator's ability to both run the accessories and recharge the battery.

Upgrading to a 105 amp alternator would be pretty cheap. You could risk going to a scrap heap, but new ones should be fairly cheap too. They're a pretty standard gm part.
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Nov 5, 2002 | 08:14 PM
  #13  
180 amp alt, with a yellow cap deep cycle opti battery ....like to see those lights dim muahahah
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Nov 5, 2002 | 10:02 PM
  #14  
how about this?
how about investing in a cap? your probably draining your battery making your alternator strain to keep up, lights dimming at all? give that a shot..
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Nov 6, 2002 | 03:16 PM
  #15  
If you have the spec sheet for the amp -check the current draw. Some amps will pull 30 AMPS or mor at full tilt. Im taking a wild (but accurate) guess that the alternator in our cars do not have 30 amps worth of extra capacity to spare. Factor this in when you're driving at night, with the wipers on and the brights on with the stereo up. Watch your volt meter. Chances are that it drops like a rock when the bass hits. If your amp sucks more EXTRA current than the alternator can replace the battery will get killed slowly every time. Figure that all of the cars accessories add up to, say, 90 amps and you have a 105 amp alternator (plenty for the car) the math seems pretty simple and the high current killer (your amp) strikes again. Check that current rating!!
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Nov 7, 2002 | 10:52 PM
  #16  
Thanks for all the input guys! I do appreciate it.:hail:

I finally found my manual, the amp and sub are locked under the cargo cover and I dont know where I stashed the key.
The amp has a 25 fuse and is turned down all the way. The bass boost and other functions are also off, just enough bass to feel.

Before the past two alternator's just droped dead with no fluctuating volt meter they just pooped out. This one is giving the signs but periodicly. One minute it will be on 14v the next it will drop down to 11 the lights dimming are a sure sign the guage is not faulty. Id consider getting a Cap and a higher output alternaotr but the cash flow is _________.
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