my head unit blew a wile ago, it was causing me to replace the battery and alternator. i took it out and sent it in to get fixed and the alternator and battery problem stopped. i got the head unit back today and put it in, my front speakers work (the ones runing from the head unit) but the speakers in teh back dont work (the ones from teh amp) i have no idea whats wrong now. both fuses on teh amp are fine. any ideas? did i fry the amp when the head unit shorted out? thanks alot

 

forgot to add... the little spiffy green power light on the amp isnt lighting up. i've checked everything from the battery to the amp and it seems like it should be getting power. any ideas?

 

use a multimeter to check for power at the amp... also check the remote wire for +12v at the amp.

 

and if there isnt power at the amp??? i'm thinking there is because when i pulled the power wire it sparked on the amp case... oops. but theres still no power in the amp.

 

then check the speaker wires going from the amp to the speakers..

 

but theres not even power to the amp dood...

 

well then you need to check the wire going from your battery to the amp.. if you hook the + lead of a multimeter up to the + power wire (should be connected to your amp) and the other lead to a metal ground somewhere on the car (NOT to the - terminal of the amp), and you have no power, then you have a problem with your power wire.

 

i know theres power through the power wire to the amp because when i pulled the wire from the amp it hit the metal case and sparked

 

fuse? and maybe your wire from the battery to the amp, is shot, or your ground isn't totally grounded..

 

all of the fuses are good... and i didnt move the ground wire this whole time, i'm positive the ground is good. i took apart the amp (shh dont tell calirion) to see if i could see if anything was fried and it looked good. would the remote wire coming from the head unit have anything to do with this? when i pulled the head unit a few wires came apart on me. now they all are fixed as far as i can tell, its hard to see in there with the car kit and the millions of wires in there

 

yes, both the remote wire and the power wire need to be showing +12v with the cd player on. try connecting a small wire from the +12v input on the amp to the remote input on the amp -- if the amp now fires up, your remote wire is bad. if it doesnt, your power wire is bad.

 

with out any type of multi meter, you are very much in the dark in regards to trouble shooting. you can pick one up for $20 if you're not looking for any specific precision. learn how to use it, it's not that hard.

sparking the 12v wire to the amp case is not a good way to check for power....even if by accident. even though the fuse is a slow blow, how do you know it isn't broken? you can look and see, but sometimes fuses look good but really aren't. a multi meter can tell you for sure if there isn't any power. the meter can also tell you if the ground connection hasn't corroded either. using the continuity tester (resistance) to check the fuses helps too, because. Iv'e seen those look ok by eye, but electrically...no good. sometimes the split can be too small to see, it happens with automotive light bulbs alot too.

 

wellll i just checked everything with the meter. the power wire from the battery to the amp is good and the remote wire from the head unit to the amp is good. the ground is also good. that means it has to be the amp right? crud! i'm thinking that if this amp is blown and its not still under warranty i'm going to go with the cheep legacy 1000 watt amp, for 100 bucks. anyone have any expeience with this? i'll probably make a post just about it to get more attention. i'm asking because i seriously believe you get what you pay for, so 1000 watts for 100 bucks... ohya 4 channels too. seems a little iffy to me

 

Hey KsKid, I know you probably don't want to hear this but you answered your own post by saying, "You get what you pay for", and I am thinking of getting the "cheep" Leagacy 1000. Save your money and get what you dream of. I waited a whole year but now my system is right and I get much respect from evryone.

 

i kinda figured that... i need atleast 600 watts from an amp to run my 2 subs and 2 6X9's. right now i have a measly 380w amp. i want to get something that can handle 600 but one of those with 4 channels is pretty expensive. i saw that someone had a 1000 watt legacy for 100 bucks and liked it on here so i decided to look it up. i really dont want to wait untill i can earn around 500 bucks and get an amp before i can listen to my system. grrrr