Hi, I have everything I need to make one a box for my camaro sitting in my garage. But I don't think I have anything to make the faceplate
Has anyone ever just gotten one of those specialized free-air faceplates from circuit city and bolted on there own box
Any tips on making faceplates?
It's a couple of pioneer IMPP 12's if your wondering
400 watt kenwood amp

 

faceplate for a box?????pic?

 

Are you talking about this??

Most people just make theirs. I'll post the dimensions if you need them.

 

Here ya go..... if this is what you're talking about.

 

i was thinking he was talknig about a fabricated face that makes it all look stock.

 

But he's talking about subs.

 

Not the dimensions I'm worryed about
It's the cutting of the actual 12" hole of the board.
The faceplate I'm talking about is the board that the subs screw into, the topmost board on the box.
I just spewed out what subs and amp I have to make you envious, or more likely, to scoff at.
Maybe this sounds like a dumba*s question, but, I have no idea how to cut the hole w/o a scroll-saw or something like that... And it has to be in the middle of the box, which makes things even more difficult.
My porposed solution would involve buying the actual freeair board (faceplate) from a manufactorer, and then stamping that part onto a box I already have made
I don't like spending unnessary money if I don't have to.... I might even be able to get a friend to saw it at a high-school woodshop class.
Don't know? Suggestions?

 

draw your circles, drill a hole inside each one, big enough for a jigsaw blade, and get cutting.

Tip cut smaller than the circle you draw, as if it's too small you can easily take more off, but if it's too big.....

 

meassure from front to back and find the center , the mesure left to right (keeping in mind how big the speaker is and know how close you want to get to the edge). So if you speaker is 12", the hole is acually 11", half of elevin is 5.5". If you want you hole to be 2 inches form the edge, than measeure 2"+ 5.5", and where that mark crosses the front to back mark is the center of your circle. I use a bid compass, or a pensile on a 5.5" string and draw a circle around the center dot. Drwar both circles than cut, than messure again to make sure it is right before you cut, Cutting circle is a pain (because i have a dull blade) so you only want to do it once. Hope that is understanable

 

You don't even need a tape measure.

1) Using a straight edge (SE), draw a line from opposite corners so there are two diagonal lines forming an "X" (BLACK lines). Where the lines meet (or cross) is the center of the board.

2) Start on the left side and set the end of the SE flush with that side. Mark onto the SE where the point is that the lines cross.

3) Make marks on the top and bottom of the board (BLACK marks), then use the SE to draw a line through them. (RED lines)

4) Make more diagonal lines using the opposite corners of the RED line you made (BLUE lines).

5) Grab a paper plate (real paper plate, not a "China" hard plate, etc.) and fold it in half. Unfold it and fold it in half the other way (don't worry, it doesn't have to be "perfectly" opposite). Where the two lines cross is the center of the plate. Poke a hole there with a nail.

6) Nail the plate to the board by lining it up with the center of the BLUE lines.

7) Trace around the plate with a pencil.

Now you have a perfect circle in the center of the board/plate.

As HamsterOnaMission said, drill a hole toward the outside of the circle large enough for the blade to drop through. And also (like HamsterOnaMission said) it's better to cut too small than too big. You can always make it larger.

 

get the specs from Kenwood about the mouting diameter, then add 1/16 of an inch and cut on the line... that's what i do and the subs drop right in and have enough screw room....

- Andy

 

One more thing.

If you're using MDF, get a blade made to cut metal for your jigsaw. It cuts SOOO much smoother through MDF.

 

If you're trying to make the top board on the box follow the countour of the car, a good way to do it is to get a sheet of cardboard and slowly cut that down until it fits well, then cut it down another 1/4" to allow room for carpet. Also keep in mind the angle of the front area when you shape the cardboard. Then trace it to the wood and cut.

Another idea which I think looks a lot better is to make a regular top piece for the box, then build a cover out of 1/2" wood. This will give the subs a flush-mounted appearance and really looks a lot better. This is what I mean:
(copy & paste)
http://iroc.fbody.com/box2.jpg
http://iroc.fbody.com/box3.jpg

 

Wow... Thanks a lot
Better go get sawin'

 

I wish my car wasn't such a POS so I would be inspired to do quality work.......
Probably won't even carpet the f*cking box
Let alone make it flush with the interior (whats left of it anyways)
Lol.....
One day

 

Don't let that change your mind. I had this in a car that I paid $100 for:
(Copy & paste again)
http://iroc.fbody.com/camstereo1.jpg

 

i had my bass setup and stereo in my POS Tempo 2 years ago. you dont ahve to have a car look good to take pride in it

 

Don't let that stop you. My car started that way also. I just madea hit list of things to fix. It becomes pretty easy that way. A few visits to the J-Yard can quickly bring the POS up to speed. And always make your sounds look good.