How to wire amp to battery.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
How to wire amp to battery.
I have a sidepost terminal battery. The actual connector is wrapped in a rubber grommet like sleave, so the only way I can see to wire the amp would be to splice into the battery cable. How would you guys recomend doing this? I don't want a hack job. Is there a side post connector with 2 "outs" on it? Like a "y" connector?
Hmmmmm.....
Hmmmmm.....
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
You can get a sidepost stud. It replaces your current bolt that screws into the batt. It has a stud on the end where you can hook up your amp power rings to.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
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Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
That'll work fine, but when the time comes to change the battery, consider a dual terminal battery. That's what I have in my cars and it works out great. I can keep my stereo wiring completely independant from the rest of the car's stock wiring.
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From: West Unity, OH
Car: 1989 White Trans-AM
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i just hooked it up i mean i got a ring connecter and wired it on to the batter terminal using the stock cable connection it works fine for me. granted i had to cut a little into the rubber boot thing but other than that it looks fine to me.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I've done that in the past. By using a ring terminal, you severely comprimise the connection between the battery and the terminal, and once you get a little corrosion you'll have a whole host of issues.
The threads are not where your electrical connection is deisgned to be made... it's at the surface of that battery post to the bumpy section of the terminal... the very spot that a ring terminal winds up interfering with. For the couple bucks that the sidepost stud costs, it's well worth it. Plus, it makes installation a hell of a lot easier.
The threads are not where your electrical connection is deisgned to be made... it's at the surface of that battery post to the bumpy section of the terminal... the very spot that a ring terminal winds up interfering with. For the couple bucks that the sidepost stud costs, it's well worth it. Plus, it makes installation a hell of a lot easier.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I had my fog lights on my truck wired under the battery cable with a ring connector and it started to corrode and ate all the way thru my cable at the connection to the battery; I had to get a whole new cable. Not to say that way won't work, but I'll never do it that way again.
I think the side mount adapter post is the best way to go here.
Ed
I think the side mount adapter post is the best way to go here.
Ed
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I just installed a post adapter made by Memphis stereo equipment. Ran me $4.98 and it went in easy and works great for my amp and MSD box power supplies.
Kudos !!
Sorry, no pic. I'll take one if anyone wants but it will be a few days...going to the Martinsville race tomorrow!!!
Ed
Kudos !!
Sorry, no pic. I'll take one if anyone wants but it will be a few days...going to the Martinsville race tomorrow!!!
Ed
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