So here is my new install. An Ample Audio A1100DX amp,Pioneer 3500 cd player and 2-12 in. Pioneer DVC 800 watt max subs. Also put on a 140 amp alt. The box has 1.6 cubic feet per sub and is tuned to 49 htz. I hit a 139.5 right after the install so I will be tweeking to get some more out of it. I did the complete install and built the box so give me your thoughts.

 

the amp

 

the box

 

the box 2

 

the car

 

Looks good. I take it your only after SPL only?

 

not bad. i dont really like the box all that much but you did a good job. almost looks professional. i should know, i am a professional. maybe i can work on my own car soon. i still have to build my amp rack. im gonna try to do that in the next couple of days. ill take pics for you guys when im done.

 

good to see another ample user around here. i'm running one of the A240X amps on my sub. packs a niiiice punch. lookin for a 2 or 4 channel for the components now....

 

Nice set up. I have a Alpine Type R 12" ran by an Alpine mono amp. Alpine 4x10's, Alpine 5 1/4's, and alpine 3 1/2's. I havent checked it yet. I was just going to comment on your box tuned to 49hz. Thats pretty high. My box is tuned to 28hz. That is probably why you get good db's, but you are going to bottom out your subs if you play too low of bass.

 

i think you got it backwords. its not a problem for the sub to play lower than the tuned frequency, its a problem for it to play higher than it.

 

When you build a vented or ported box, you tune it low for SQ, high for SPL, which is what you are obviously going for. I am going for SQ over SPL, but can still rattle the hell out of my car with pure deep bass. High quality systems (like $1.5k+) will normally have a 25-30hz vent and have them play to 75-80hz (amp is in charge of that) while their mids will play from 60 on up. Car stereo competitors normally have a spike at their cars resonant frequency so they can gather as much SPL as possible. SQ guys go for imaging (being able to close your eyes and practically be able to visualize exactly where the guitar, or bassist, or drummer would be, like a concert) and want a flat line at around 30hz and up. Teamlinear.com has WinISD and you can mess with designing boxes, but you have to have a lot of inputs for it to get correct readings. To play lower than the box is tuned means the sub wont play the notes under that, which can hurt the sub. Caraudioforum.com has plenty of useful things for you to research.

 

Yep your right. The tuning of the box is as LOW as it will go. anything lower than the tuneing and the subs plays as if its not in a box at all thus destroying the box. the lower you tune the lower the sub is capable of playing.

 

Yeah, my brother kinda had that experience with an Audiobahn Alum Q 10". The box was prefab and put together cheaply. The box seams started to come apart without him knowing, and after about 5min of playing, the cone and a big spark show erupted behind him. Luckily he wasnt driving. The sealed box became a ported box, until the tuning was so high it was practically free air. Poor little 10". We still have it too.

 

thats for the audio lesson but i was only questioning the tuning frequency, not the entire competition strategies of top competitors. you seem like you know what you are talking about but i dont know that you do. you say that they try to get "a flat line at around 30hz and up". up to what? and i dont think that too many mids play frequency in the 60 hz range very effeciently.

 

Yes, sq guys want a flat line so 30hz is just as loud at 50hz and thats just as loud as 70hz and so on. SPL guys want a spike somewhere along the line so they get hella bass on that string of notes (normally around 40-60hz) Thats why super boxes are loud as hell, but normally dont sound as good. On your question, 30hz to practically infinity. But most subs run out at 250hz or so, and most dont even have theirs turned up loud enough (that i know at least) to get to 150hz. I have my amp at 125hz on the crossover, and i have the sub outs on my deck at 80hz, so my deck wont even send any notes above 80hz to the sub. My speakers can handle those higher frequencies well enough. As for the speakers. My brothers alpine type-r 5 1/4's in his fronts handles 65hz damn well, and those arent even the best on the market. So to boil it all down, i want a flat line to keep a smooth sound across my subs playing field (28hz-80hz). But you can adjust both ends by building a lower tuned box or adjusting the top end hz on your deck or amp to whatever you want.

 

im gonna hold out name calling because im not sure if you just arent paying attention. 30 hz to infinity? is that a joke. do you know what frequency range the avg human can hear? if you are even close, i would be happy. what about the range of a good sq system? i never asked you what you meant by a flat line. you seem to like answering questions i dont ask. and how do you know your brother's 5 1/4s are playing 65 hz? how can you possibly tell. 5.25s are not in any way intended to play freqs below about 200 hz. below that is considered sub bass which is ironically intended to be played by... you guessed it, subwoofers.

 

You dont understand. 30hz to infinity means that sq people want a flat line across the board. It is just a term. A flat line means that when you listen no frequencies play louder than any other frequencies. People can hear anywhere from 20hz to around 20khz, but 30hz is pretty fuzzy for most its more of a feeling than a sound. My brothers speakers are mid bass speakers. They obviously produce mid bass. My brothers fronts had a crossover on them which he turned down to 65hz and up and his sub from 70hz and down. You can tell easily when you listen to a 16khz bass drop to 10hz. Then its realllllly easy. You can hear the fronts fade to the back then only the sub. Bass test cds are good for that. It is always handy to have one around. A good sq system runs top to bottom. Which means every sound possible is produced. Amping speakers makes sure you hear every drum beat, every guitar stroke, everything. I believe i answered everything, i hope its up to par for you.

 

why would they want to produce a flat line at frequency that noone can hear anyways? most people can hear 30hz. if people loss some of their frequency range, its at the higher ranges. mid bass does not mean middle bass, it means between midrange and bass. midbass is the range from about 150-300 hz. 5.25 usually are in the higher side of that range.

is this you saying bass at 16000hz? enough said. oh and just because you have a crossover set at 65 hz, doesnt mean the speaker can play it effectively.

and what does amping speakers have anything to do with this conversation? would you please stop trying to "teach" stuff thats not a part of this? it is really annoying.

 

Thanks for the compliments on my install. But only after a week I've decided it's time to change. I'm getting 2 of the Orion H2 15.2's. Not sure if I will build a box to hold both or just go for one and have the 2nd as a spare. I will be having to add more power so you will see more and/or bigger Ample Audio Amps. I will show some new pics when i get this task complete. If anyone has any tips or tricks for the new install then please do tell. I want to put up a really decent number next time. Now I have a question....dumb but still a question, I've been told by some folks to do a burp when i get ready to be metered, What is a burp? I'm not up to par on all of the slang yet. Thanks Again

 

where did you get your ample and how much did you pay for it?

 

My friend is a dealer so I got it from him. I paid 375 for it. He is going to get me the Orions also.

 

Sorry, bass drop, test tones, same damn thing. Bass drop is just a general term for it, and since you never seemed to get anything i said, i just figured you wouldnt understand test tone and start asking me more questions. Can't play it effectively? Ha. It played it wonderfully. Test tones that go from 40-100 going in 5hz intervals. You can tell when the speaker plays it and how it sounds. My brother had a real set up before he bought his new truck, not just a couple of loud distortion subs and some hard dome tweeters. All i was saying with amping the speakers is that you are better able to control what is heard and provide a better sound. Maybe youd appreciate good sound if you actually heard it. I think you are just being pissed at me because i wronged you from the start. Now thats what is really annoying.

 

you didnt wrong me, i wronged myself. i was wrong, i admit it, but dont say that you were the reason i was wrong. i have heard good sound and i hear it everyday in my car and the in the cars i install equipment into almost everyday. that is not what is up for debate, though, now is it? if you say it plays those freqs, ok. whether you are right or wrong, you cant prove it one way or the other to me. i have gotten everything you have said, i am just questioning whether or not some of it is correct. we could go on forever about who is right but it appears never of us is gonna give in so lets just end it.

 

Sounds like a plan. I'm happy to agree to disagree Truce?

 

Don't want to re spark any old wars, but to claify a few things...

Subbass, true honest to goodness SUBbass, is about 50Hz and down, midbass is from there to about 180 to 200 Hz, midrange is from there to about 3 to 4 KHz, and then highs are there on up, well not all the way, there are points where it gets into ultrasonic and so so on.

You'd be amazed at what frequencies things are centered around, most male adult voices are cntere aroung 600 to 800 HZ, most female voices are a little higher, around 1000 HZ to 1200 HZ, I'm trying to remember where middle C is, and for some reason it's not coming to me, that would show more where the relation ship is in the frequency range.

Then there's Harmonics...

 

i got my ample off ebay, still trying hard to get another. refurbished, top model of the line, $260. no probs, beautiful condition, and i want more

 

So can or will anyone tell me what it means to do a burp. I was told to burp it when i blasted. What does this mean? Thanks

 

truce!!

a burb is when you play a freq. note that your system is tuned to for about 1-3 seconds. may be longer but thats not the point. the idea is to play your system where it will be loudest, and throw all you eggs in one basket so to speak. that way you dont waist precise power at freq levels that are not gonna be as loud. unless your system is very high wattage (1500+ watts), its not really worth worry about. good luck.

 

It could mean what tamu said or burp power means to play your sub at hella high levels (like 5000rms) for about 10-15sec. Some competition subs have this kind of set up, but i wouldnt try it on anything else. I've seen burp used both ways.

 

Thanks for the info on that. It looks like I will definatley be installing 2 Orion H2 15.2 and at least 1 Ample 1500 DX amp. I can get the subs for 400 each. I will now have to build another box for them. Thanks again