this is my idea for cramming alot of sound into a small space. using a box recessed 3 or 4 inches into the well with 2 big subs in it. after that put 4 pegs/legs in a square around each sub, on top of that would go a base for the amps to mount to. so you would have an amp directly above a sub but with air space between. this would probably look like crap so what about carpeting it so you only see the 2 amps, the subs would be beneath the amps. incase anyone is confused the carpet would go around the box that the subs are mounted in, then up to the base that the amps are mounted on, without the carpet you could see the subs but with carpet it just looks like a box with 2 amps. flame this idea all you want, just give a reason why. i think i might try it. what would the sub being semi enclosed like that sound like?

hopefully someone understood what i'm thinking of

 

it would be a unique idea...but im thinking it would make a raspy sound the amps were too close to the sub....like when you put your hand up near a port it makes a raspy type sound similar to port noise. like when you blow air out your mouth directly at your hand it makes a noise, except with subs you'll be moving a lot more air so it will be much louder

although you could set it up so that with the system off the amps will be above your subs, blocking them...but when you turn it on the amprack is retracted with an actuator to uncover the subs

 

Im not completly understanding what your talking about but if you mean that you are putting your amps directly above the subs then i would think that this is a bad idea, 1. you would be blocking alot of your sound waves from coming into the rest of the car, and 2. you definatly woulent have the prettiest wiring job in the world.

 

you could use hollow pipe to run your wires through. And the pipes would support the base.

 

I had an idea like that too, except I'd run the amps under the box, and have the subs on top. I guess the way I could explain my idea was to build a a box with out 5 sides, and have a side on the bottom, for the amps, then have the subs rest on the outer 4 edges of the amp box, so it would be like a stilt setup. And then run like 4 fans in the front and back of the amps, to cool them, two one each side of the amps. It would probably work, but take more time to build, but could be done. Your idea would work too, but I think that the amps would interrupt the airflow around the woofers, and possible weaken there output.

 

the hollow pipes and wiring idea is great, i'm an electrician so i was allready figuring it out...

how far above the subs would the base for the amps need to be to eliminate any distortion? as it is now 2 subs are mounted flush with the back well and the hatch is directly above that. maybe thats one of the reasons why it doesnt sound as good as it should.

 

You would have to try it and see what works the best, some subs move more air than others, and may be more suseptible to the amps blocking some of the sound travel. But if you work off the concept, that most bass is felt and not heard, this may help.

 

the reason bass is felt is because of the moving air, if you disrupt this moving air it will feel and sound different.

i still like the idea of using an actuator i think i might do it on my install

 

boomin boy, I know we argue alot, but theres a 24vdc actuator for sale from parts express. The part # is 329-300, it has a 10" movement and has a load capacity of 1300lbs. You would have to make a rack for the amps though, obviously.

 

thanks man, i think i need to focus on buying all my equipment and installing it before i get fancy

 

whats your next project consist off, and whats your goal with it?

 

alpine 7893 HU
cadence 5.25 components glassed into a-pillars
us acoustics 4085
dd w6.5 midbass
2 Resonant engineering HC 18s
one viper 2500d for now

i have to glass the a-pillars and glass door pods for the midbass that are angled and put some sort of finish on them (i think im going to go with black vinyl)

then i need to put my new alt in, and run all the wiring for the amps.

design and make the sub wall and amp rack. I should be able to get about 15 cubic feet out of the wall, tuned to resonant frequency of the car with a port plug to bring it down to about 30hz for streat beating

then when that is done i think im going to make a new wall for a single 10, and throw some big watts at it...then go with 4 18s and 8 or 16 viper 2500ds for an SPL install

but the goal with the first install is to hit 155 and have good SQ. With the single 10 i should be able to hit mid 150s which isnt that high but im just doing it to be unique and to see the potential of a 10. Then i would like to break 165 with the SPL install but thats much easier said than done

 

Check out this car, he hit 150 with two 15's

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/25854/2

 

theres a huge difference between 150 and 155....a good sub, box and amp combo is capable of 150 most of the time.

 

if you have enough amplifier, you could always try an isobaric enclosure.


adam

 

or a 4th order bandpass,and a smaller frequency range.

 

from my experiences you cant beat a ported sub wall

 

who the hell puts a bandpass in a 3rd gen?

 

A well tuned 4th order bandpass box will put out 25-35% more bass than a sealed or vented box, over a smaller range.

 

that might be true im not sure but making a 4th order bandpass with atleast 8cubic feet per sub is a bit difficult in a 3rd gen

 

I have two of these 4th order boxes in my living room, and they have about 2.65 cu ft for the back(woofer half) and fire into a 1.75 cu ft vented box with a large rectangular port. Let me tell you, they pound up to about 120HZ. The lows are amazing, with care, a box could be designed, but it would have to be either a wall design, or come up on a slope towards the hatch. I ordered up some titanic mark II 12s, and I might think about building a 4th order box for my iroc. If its too much work, I'll do a sealed or vented box, I'll see what happens once the weather warms up. With those two subs though I should be pushing at least 130 dbs; seeing that they put out 115 a piece, in a two cubic foot sealed box, at 500 watts rms.