Running 12's and 10's?
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From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
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Running 12's and 10's?
Ok, as some of you might has noticed..Im new to the whole sound system side of things. But, I have another question.
I bought a new Ultimate amp(335w)+Memphis sub(12",475w) audio combo, it sounds pretty good. But, I came acroos a good deal on a Rockford sub(10" 300w) and a Kenwood amp(200w) audio combo. So I bought it.
Could I run the 12 and the 10 together? Or would it sound like crap?
I bought a new Ultimate amp(335w)+Memphis sub(12",475w) audio combo, it sounds pretty good. But, I came acroos a good deal on a Rockford sub(10" 300w) and a Kenwood amp(200w) audio combo. So I bought it.
Could I run the 12 and the 10 together? Or would it sound like crap?
What nibleT meant to say was you can do it if you want.
You won't get cancellation (especially since they're not the same sub) as long as you wire them correctly. Personally, I think two different subs won't be particularly good looking, but it gives you a good range of sound to play with if the 10" handles slightly higher frequencies better. Go for it.
You won't get cancellation (especially since they're not the same sub) as long as you wire them correctly. Personally, I think two different subs won't be particularly good looking, but it gives you a good range of sound to play with if the 10" handles slightly higher frequencies better. Go for it. Supreme Member
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It doesnt matter if they are the same sub, typical newbie comment their.
On paper a 10 and a 12 move a different speeds and this is what causes the so called "cancellation" I would stay with the 12 or the 10 but not both.
On paper a 10 and a 12 move a different speeds and this is what causes the so called "cancellation" I would stay with the 12 or the 10 but not both. Senior Member
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From: abbotsford, bc
Car: 83 z28
Engine: 300hp 355
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by br()bert
It doesnt matter if they are the same sub, typical newbie comment their.
On paper a 10 and a 12 move a different speeds and this is what causes the so called "cancellation" I would stay with the 12 or the 10 but not both.
It doesnt matter if they are the same sub, typical newbie comment their.
On paper a 10 and a 12 move a different speeds and this is what causes the so called "cancellation" I would stay with the 12 or the 10 but not both.
if you got a good deal on the sub as you said, it should be too hard to find another buyer for it.
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From: El Paso, TX
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Originally posted by CaysE
My apologies, nibleT; I was thinking of the kind of cancellation when you wire one sub out of phase of the other.
My apologies, nibleT; I was thinking of the kind of cancellation when you wire one sub out of phase of the other.
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The only reason the subs are moving at different speeds is due to amplitude differences. The fact is, the frequency is the same, and the phase is the same. There will be no cancellation due to driver size differences.
The problem lies in the different frequency responses and sound characteristics of the drivers. Because the two subs don't have identical frequency responses, instead of a response that may be +/-3dB within the passband, you could wind up with irregularities of up to +/-6dB. Furthermore, distortion levels and other differences that contribute to a driver's overall sound quality will be vastly different. When you blend the two together, you typically wind up with sound that's worse than the worst of the two individual drivers.
The problem lies in the different frequency responses and sound characteristics of the drivers. Because the two subs don't have identical frequency responses, instead of a response that may be +/-3dB within the passband, you could wind up with irregularities of up to +/-6dB. Furthermore, distortion levels and other differences that contribute to a driver's overall sound quality will be vastly different. When you blend the two together, you typically wind up with sound that's worse than the worst of the two individual drivers.
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