120A maxi fuse
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
120A maxi fuse
I have a fuse block that takes maxi fuses.
I'd prefer to keep it, but I can only find a maxi fuse as big as 80A. I should be ok, as long as I don't crank it full blast, but i'd rather not pop a fuse if I did...
Has anyone seen a 120A maxifuse? littelfuse and bussman apparently don't make them, but optifuse does.
I haven't found any of those for sale in canada, and when I called their head office they told me to call a place in pennsilvania (gimme a break, i'm canadian, and that's hard to spell!), and that lady was having an operation (geez, talk about explicit voice mail...)
anyway, does anyone know of any other companies that make a 120A maxi fuse? perhaps that will send me a 3 or 5 pack?
Thanks
I'd prefer to keep it, but I can only find a maxi fuse as big as 80A. I should be ok, as long as I don't crank it full blast, but i'd rather not pop a fuse if I did...
Has anyone seen a 120A maxifuse? littelfuse and bussman apparently don't make them, but optifuse does.
I haven't found any of those for sale in canada, and when I called their head office they told me to call a place in pennsilvania (gimme a break, i'm canadian, and that's hard to spell!), and that lady was having an operation (geez, talk about explicit voice mail...)
anyway, does anyone know of any other companies that make a 120A maxi fuse? perhaps that will send me a 3 or 5 pack?
Thanks
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
You may want to go with a circuit breaker. They are considerably cheaper than fuses.
My fuse holder and 200amp fuse cost me about $90 total... complete rip-off.
My fuse holder and 200amp fuse cost me about $90 total... complete rip-off.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea, I have a 180A circuit breaker under the hood, then 1AWG to the rear seat back area, then a distribution box (el cheapo brand, but maxi fuse style), where a 60A fuse protects my 4channel amp, and now I was hoping to find a 120A one for my sub amp....
I'd like to use the block, I guess I could just use 2 60A fuses, and run two power wires together....
but i'll try and dig up a 120A first...
I'd like to use the block, I guess I could just use 2 60A fuses, and run two power wires together....
but i'll try and dig up a 120A first...
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
so you want the smaller fuses just in case your amps up and die? (causing them to draw more than 60amps, but less than 180)?
because the circuit breaker up front would be good enough for a power-to-ground problem... IE accidentally grounding the 1AWG power wire.
I wonder how many amps a broken amplifier will pull through it to cause a fire? That could even be less than 60, and you'd still be screwed.
because the circuit breaker up front would be good enough for a power-to-ground problem... IE accidentally grounding the 1AWG power wire.
I wonder how many amps a broken amplifier will pull through it to cause a fire? That could even be less than 60, and you'd still be screwed.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
What? You lost me there.
I have the 180A fuse in case the 1AWG wire grounds itself before the dist box. And my max current draw for the amplifiers is 180A or so.
The 60A fuse is for my rockford P4004. It's only going to be putting out around 200W RMS say, so that's a generous fuse.
The other amp is a kicker 1200.1, rated at 1200W rms, so I figured a 120A fuse would be ok for that.
I guess I coulda just used a distribution box without fuses, but like I say, I just kinda had this one so.... I'm using a standard distribution box for the grounds. (ie. non fused.)
I have the 180A fuse in case the 1AWG wire grounds itself before the dist box. And my max current draw for the amplifiers is 180A or so.
The 60A fuse is for my rockford P4004. It's only going to be putting out around 200W RMS say, so that's a generous fuse.
The other amp is a kicker 1200.1, rated at 1200W rms, so I figured a 120A fuse would be ok for that.
I guess I coulda just used a distribution box without fuses, but like I say, I just kinda had this one so.... I'm using a standard distribution box for the grounds. (ie. non fused.)
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
so you want the smaller fuses just in case your amps up and die? (causing them to draw more than 60amps, but less than 180)?
so you want the smaller fuses just in case your amps up and die? (causing them to draw more than 60amps, but less than 180)?
Check ebay, I found alot of fuse sizes I didn't even know exist. Also, make sure your fuse holder can handle 120A.
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by Sonix
I guess I coulda just used a distribution box without fuses, but like I say, I just kinda had this one so.... I'm using a standard distribution box for the grounds. (ie. non fused.)
I guess I coulda just used a distribution box without fuses, but like I say, I just kinda had this one so.... I'm using a standard distribution box for the grounds. (ie. non fused.)
I had an old one like that, but I replaced it with a regular block.. I felt the fuses were redundant, and if you think about it, the only thing you're fusing is the short length of wire going from the distro to the amp... But in my opinion, I'd say that you'd blow the main fuse (up front,) if the wires hit anyways.
If your amplifier did NOT have internal fusing, then I'd strongly recommend your setup... otherwise it's redundant.
You may want to check out Advanced Auto Parts... They had 100amp for sure in that style... maybe higher... They only had a 150amp circuit breaker though! oh well.
If they don't have it, I bet Radio Shack or Digi-Key.com (for sure would have it).
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
haha, that's ironic, I deal with digikey a lot here at work, and i'm pretty sure they don't deal with anything in that size (above milli amperes...) I'll check though...
Now that radio shack = the source, I thought they were a different type of store... worth a check...
advance auto I think is american only. we have parts source, I could give'm a call...
Yea, I had a normal distro block, but my brother needed it for his trailer, so I saw one of these in a blow out rack for $5 so I nabbed it... I don't think it'd really be worth mail ordering fuses like this, so chances are i'll just end up running two 8AWG wires with 60A fuses, then braid it together at the amp and cram them into the power socket.
Thanks for the input
Now that radio shack = the source, I thought they were a different type of store... worth a check...
advance auto I think is american only. we have parts source, I could give'm a call...
Yea, I had a normal distro block, but my brother needed it for his trailer, so I saw one of these in a blow out rack for $5 so I nabbed it... I don't think it'd really be worth mail ordering fuses like this, so chances are i'll just end up running two 8AWG wires with 60A fuses, then braid it together at the amp and cram them into the power socket.
Thanks for the input
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
I wonder how many amps a broken amplifier will pull through it to cause a fire? That could even be less than 60, and you'd still be screwed.
I wonder how many amps a broken amplifier will pull through it to cause a fire? That could even be less than 60, and you'd still be screwed.
Car fires start when people play with wire...
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
My KX1200.1 came with a big-*** 150A fuse in a nice Kicker fuse holder. Didn't yours? I know 150A is quite a bit higher than what you're looking for, but check here for extra interconnect & interconnect components:
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
This is a direct link to a 0 gauge/4 gauge ANL fuse holder. They also have a great deal of distribution blocks that may be of interest. It's mainly all Singer products -- not show quality, but pretty decent in my opinion. Note that the link above is for the holder only and no fuse. The fuses are ~$10 each for high-capacity units.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
This is a direct link to a 0 gauge/4 gauge ANL fuse holder. They also have a great deal of distribution blocks that may be of interest. It's mainly all Singer products -- not show quality, but pretty decent in my opinion. Note that the link above is for the holder only and no fuse. The fuses are ~$10 each for high-capacity units.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
I personally wouldn't wire a car for a 140A load with anything smaller than 2 AWG. 120A is right at that fringe edge where it may work depending on run length, but I'd still take the safe way and run 2 AWG -- much better than coming out in the morning and finding your car on fire.
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by PhLaXuS
This is a direct link to a 0 gauge/4 gauge ANL fuse holder.
This is a direct link to a 0 gauge/4 gauge ANL fuse holder.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
Oh...It's both. The terminals on each end are sized for 0 AWG, but the holder came with little "collars" inside the 0 AWG openings which sized them down to 4 AWG. I've no clue why anyone would ever run this holder with 4 AWG anyway, strange...
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Well I was hoping to find a way to use my current dist block, that was the sole point of this thread, I am aware of alternatives.
actually i'm buying the kicker amp used from a guy on ebay, so i'll find out if it comes with the fuse block...?
I'm running 1AWG from battery to dist block, then something else for the 6" to the amp, probably dual 8AWG wires with 60A fuses (each, like parallel), since I don't think the 6" of wiring will significantly alter the voltage drop...
I might just go pick up a standard distro block, with no fuses, and run that. This isn't a competition stereo or anything, (so i'll never have judges measuring my wiring or anything).
I had a tsunami 1200W, and then memphis 1000W amp powering this sub before, ran 4AWG from the battery, to a battery in the trunk (previous car), with no fusing except on the amps. Now that was a fire hazard. However I lived through it, so I think the fear of your car catching on fire is a little bit over zealous.
Anyway, what wire sizes can fit in the kicker amp ? I may do dual 4AWG wire, each one having a 60A fuse in the distro block, then braid them to go into the amp, if it'd fit...
actually i'm buying the kicker amp used from a guy on ebay, so i'll find out if it comes with the fuse block...?
I'm running 1AWG from battery to dist block, then something else for the 6" to the amp, probably dual 8AWG wires with 60A fuses (each, like parallel), since I don't think the 6" of wiring will significantly alter the voltage drop...
I might just go pick up a standard distro block, with no fuses, and run that. This isn't a competition stereo or anything, (so i'll never have judges measuring my wiring or anything).
I had a tsunami 1200W, and then memphis 1000W amp powering this sub before, ran 4AWG from the battery, to a battery in the trunk (previous car), with no fusing except on the amps. Now that was a fire hazard. However I lived through it, so I think the fear of your car catching on fire is a little bit over zealous.
Anyway, what wire sizes can fit in the kicker amp ? I may do dual 4AWG wire, each one having a 60A fuse in the distro block, then braid them to go into the amp, if it'd fit...
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
I have a 2004 model KX1200.1 and it can take up to 0 AWG for the power/ground and what looks like maybe 8 AWG for the sub outputs. I ran 10 gauge to power the subs and if I remember correctly, I had to remove a few strands of wire to get both 10 AWG lines to feed into each of the two outputs on the amp. It should come with a remote bass boost **** as well. If not, you can probably have mine as I have two (one came with the KX1200.1 and another with the KX850.4). Kicker states that you can use one **** to control many amps if you wish by using a modular phone jack spiltter. I cracked open the case on my bass bost ****, pulled the electronics and mounted it inside the center console. Now, I have a little **** beneath the power trunk release that goes from 0 to +18db (I think) bass boost. Nice addition since I could never get my old system to sound right going back & forth from rock to hip-hop -- the bass was never mixed properly.
Last edited by PhLaXuS; Sep 17, 2005 at 08:11 PM.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, handy info...
I had a bass **** on my previous amp(s), and I thought it was kinda tacky... I'm not sure if i'll use one on this, as my deck has sub pre-out volume adjustments, but getting to the menus is more tedious then turning a little ****... but i'd prefer any extraneous interior buttons/switches/***** be related to the engine and power output....
We'll see, i'll post what I do as a solution to the problem of non-existant 120A fuse, as well as what the amp is like... when i get it...
now to find some 4x6s that'll hold a candle to my new kappa 2ohm 6x9s..... oh yea, 2 ohms baby
I had a bass **** on my previous amp(s), and I thought it was kinda tacky... I'm not sure if i'll use one on this, as my deck has sub pre-out volume adjustments, but getting to the menus is more tedious then turning a little ****... but i'd prefer any extraneous interior buttons/switches/***** be related to the engine and power output....
We'll see, i'll post what I do as a solution to the problem of non-existant 120A fuse, as well as what the amp is like... when i get it...
now to find some 4x6s that'll hold a candle to my new kappa 2ohm 6x9s..... oh yea, 2 ohms baby
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