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any holes in driver side firewall to run power wire?

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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #1  
lowgas&rubber's Avatar
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Car: 97 b4c camaro
Engine: 350 lt1
Axle/Gears: 3.23
any holes in driver side firewall to run power wire?

I need to run my power wire under my carpet. I was wondering if there is any factory holes in the driver side firewall to run it. I tried running it under my sill panel but is too fat. Any advice would help. thanks
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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:11 AM
  #2  
Xophertony's Avatar
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From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
do you have an A/C heater box or non A/C heater box? if you have a non AC box but used to have an AC box (as in YOU changed it to non AC) there is a hole where one of the bolts used to go through under the header box. this may or may not be present on factory non AC cars, i have never looked. if you wan't to look for the hole it is under the carpet a little bit. pull back the passanger side carpet and you will see a flap in the pad, pull back this pad-flap and there should be several holes, most of which should have bolts for your heater box. some may be empty.

even if you have no hole there it would be a good spot to dril one as it would be hidden by your heater box. i re-routed the HVAC vaccume feed lines through there so they would not be melted by my engine block. you could also go through the inner fender and such with the ECM wire harness. i am not sure if it is bad to run battery hot past the signal wires of the ECM... i don't think it is.

good luck with your install.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:15 AM
  #3  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Drill a hole and install a rubber grommet. There are a couple places to snake 8 or 10 gauge through existing holes, but something the size of 4 gauge should have its own hole.

When I run it down the driver's side, I usually drill under the clutch master cylinder, or if it's an automatic, drill where the clutch master cylinder would be.
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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From: Poland, Europe
Car: Firebird 88
Engine: 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.50
I use the holes in a right fender where the harness goes...
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 08:00 AM
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally Posted by Morit
I use the holes in a right fender where the harness goes...
That works great if you want to go down the passenger side, but it's not going to do you much good if you want it on the driver side. I generally recommend to people that they run it down whatever side of the car the battery is on. That keeps the wire as short as possible, and also simplifies the installation.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #6  
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From: Poland, Europe
Car: Firebird 88
Engine: 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.50
Since at the driver side are all fuses, relays and most important harness endings, theres a lot of electric tension going around.
Also all electric cables going fron front to end are located on the driver side, while audio are at the passanger side.
So - it is recommended to have audio wires on passanger side.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #7  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Not if that's the side you run your RCAs on. Audio cables should never run alongside power cables, though to be honest, I've rarely encountered problems. But for that matter, I've never encountered a problem running an audio cable down the driver side either. If you route it right, it won't get near the fuse box, but even if it did, I'd be very surprised to ever see it cause a problem. There isn't really much to worry about with neighboring DC lines. Clicks and pops can be an issue if you source power from a noisy source, but simply running them near each other won't cause issues. Problems arise when dealing with low-level AC signals (such as RCAs).
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 01:08 AM
  #8  
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I run the wires (power, speaker, RCAs) wherever is easiest. Never had any noise so long at the grounds are good.

I'd run it where Jim said. You can buy grommets at Loews or Ace. Just bring the wire with you to make sure you get one the proper size. I use a bit of silicone to glue the grommet in place. Let it dry, then slide the wire thru, using a bit of WD40 to help it throught since it's a tight fit.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 11:49 PM
  #9  
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From: Englewood, Oh
Car: 89 Camaro, 93 Cadillac Deville,
Engine: 355 in the camaro, 4.9 in the caddi
Transmission: 700R4 in the camaro
Axle/Gears: stock on both
i personally used the drill a hole method in the passanger side. but if you really want to run it down the drivers side you can. if your cruise controle doesnt work just yank it out and you will have more than enough room for several 4 guage wires. as for the whole rca, remote wire, and power wire thing, ive had a problem in the past w/ it. the power wire was interupting the electromagnetic field of the rca's, and from time to time would create enough of an electromagnetic field in the remote wire to turn on the amp for a second. that problem was solved by rinning the power wire down one side and the rca's and the remote down the other. but god for bid, what ever you do, if you drill, put in a gromett or something to keep the wires from rubbing on the firewall. my roomate had that issue w/ his honda and he ended up rewiring the entire radio circuit. fried his tv too
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