in my car i have a sony 600 watt four channel amp that you can buy from walmart, two twelve-inch alpine type e's (sittin in single boxes also from walmart) and a 5k farad cap i think. not sure on the cap size. anyways, i have the system wired to where there is one speaker bridged on one channel, and the second bridged on the other. it's still not loud enough, any way i could get more power out of it?

 

I'm not familar with the subs, or the amp. But if you have it hooked up with the maximum load on each channel (4 ohm bridged per channel for example). there really isn't anything else you can do.

I'm going to say that the amp is maybe 600Watts MAX (which is not a real number, they just make it up) so it's maybe putting out 200-300 RMS? Just a guess.

So if it isn't loud enough, the only way to increase it is to buy a better amp.

 

if u want louder get a better amp and get a better box and loose the cap...

i would use that sony 4ch amp for ur mids/highs and look for a mono 2ohm that will do 500rms amp that will give each sub there rated rms power 250each.after u do that it will probably be twice as loud since that sony is only put out 100rms if that...

 

yep the amp is your problem, Sony is very entry level especially the xplode line. Look for CEA2006 compliant at least then you can compare apples to apples (even RMS numbers on alot of amps are fake as they could have it at 24 volts, and 1 hz)

 

go grab your self two 12" kicker's .. and a quantum audio 2000watt amp (cheap yet friggen awsome) .. and youll never want subs again b/c your ears will hurt .. lol .. my friend had that setup in his civic .. he paid about $450 w/ a chambered box .. but then again we got a hookup straight from the manufacturer .. i sat in it .. and barely turned up my chest would hurt .. lol ..
that should cure your problems .. and why do you have a 5 farad cap on 600watts .. lol .. dont need that ..

 

Don't do anything silly and replace the subs and such. How big are your boxes for one, and your amp is weak and should be replaced for sub duty. The amp will work fine on your mids and highs but it's a little light for the subwoofers. Let's see some pics of the enclosures you have, and pick up a better amp; I like the Kenwood mono amps you can purchase one on eBay for a song and they're tough little amps with CEA compliance.

 

ok, well, i kinda figured my amp was the prob, but the thang that makes me mad is that during summer, same amps and subs, it would make my "fuzzy dice" bounce, and now it dont, the only reason i have the cap is cause my lights were dimmin and my batt. was dyin too qwik. but i have been lookin at buyin two kicker subs with a 1600 watt two channel amp. is pioneer better than sony?
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How do i figure out how many ohms it is?

 

idk about pioneer .. but sony = complete hunk of crap .. do not buy sony stuff at all .. or dual .. there both really crappy ..


i really like kickers products and mtx .. i have owned their products and know alot of people running their subs / amps .. none of which have problems ..

where as sony owners are always complaining or replacing something .. lol

hope that helps .. by the way the 12" L7 is the bomb .. especially if you get it from the guy on ebay for $185 .. make sure he is the powerseller and has 100% feedback ..

 

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...d/0/rid/123284
these are the subs i'm gettin and i'm gonna get this amp...
http://cgi.ebay.com/QUANTUM-AUDIO-MO...QQcmdZViewItem
tell me what you think... oh yeah, when i get this stuff, i'm gonna goahead and get the special box for the camaro, and im gonna have ky pro tints hook everything up... so it will be done professionally.
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but i do need help finding a GOOD h.u. right now i've got the sony h.u. and that could be part of the prob. too

 

The subs will be OK, Kicker is a good brand. You could also look into other manufactures like RE, FI, etc.

But pass on that amp, when a manufacture boasts the MAX rating you know there is something wrong there.
I don't even believe the RMS rating on it either.

If I were you, I would look for a used mono block amp from a reputable manufacture.

The JBL 1200.1 was a great amp, I can't remember the specs if it could go down to 1 ohm or not ( I think it did). I got one off ebay last year for 100, and has been working great.

Plus you really want a Class D Mono amp. The one you listed is class A/B, not as efficient for powering subs.

 

so im lookin for a class d? ok, i will look for that i guess and will take a look at other subs.

 

hmmm, sonys arent all the best, but I do have sony xplods amp and subs, and I had them for three years, and they sound pretty nice, hit hard, and never had a problem with them. (probly yet) but I do wish I went with a pioneer, only reason why I didnt, cause I wanted the sonys cause they had more power then the pioneers I was lookin at :-\

 

You really do want to just avoid Sony all together, we have so many that come to our forum asking why their Sony gear just stopped working.

I had a friend who had a Xplode amp, I installed it so I know it was hooked up right. Worked for about 2 months, and then just died for no reason at all.

Sony car audio is just riding on their name now, their stuff used to be really good back in the early to mid 90's.

 

yea .. ive known many with sony crap that has gone out within 2 months ..

one friend had his catch on fire ..


now that quantum audio looks like crap but two of my friends have had it .. and its friggen awsome .. they have been maxing it for a good 6 months with no problems at all ..

and those kickers look pretty good .. both of my friends had two kicker 12" subs like that and a 2000w quantum audio amp .. and them things hit HARD .. you really dont want a system much more powerfull than that .. its starts to hurt after about 15mins ..

lol .. hope that helps a little .. i used to be clueless on all this stuff untill i installed a few and joined a car club ..

 

So this is definitly a good setup then? cause i really like the idea of 2000 watts. but there are a few people sayin that im really wantin/ needin a class d amp. whats the diff. in the classes?

 

now the classes i have no clue .. someone else might have to enform us on that part ..

but yes two kickers, a 2000w quantum audio amp, and a chambered box will hit HARD .. personally i like the L7's .. but my friends both ran the same 12" round kicker subs .. and there back windows were flexin ..

 

I would pass on the amp, like I said earlier.
Adrians91Z28 might have had good luck with it, but you're going to be better off in the long run buying from a reputable company.

You will not have 2000 watts with that amp, that's the MAX rating. Max ratings mean nothing in the real world. That is basically a rating where the amp might have reach that output for .1 sec and maybe caught fire in the process.
I don't believe the RMS rating they have listed there either.

You really should look into a Class D for your sub amp. Like I said, it's more efficient, which is better for your electrical system.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_amplifier

Scroll down to the bottom, and it explains Class D and also Class A/B.

That JBL amp I listed earlier, if you can find one would make a great system for you.

 

ok, ill see if i cant find that jbl somewhere. i am just tryin to get the best stuff cause im tired of spendin so much money on the replacement of crappy parts.

 

i couldnt find the 1200.1, but i found the 1201.1 jbl here: http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/m...1II/detail.asp check it out and see if it looks good, cause thats in my price range. thanks for the info on the class d amps btw

 

Item
- Description
- GTO1201.1IIJBL GTO1201.1II 1200 Watt 1 Channel Amplifier Model GTO1201.1II Part No. GTO1201.1II06CVX122Kicker 06CVX12-2 Comp VX 12" Dual 2-ohm Voice Coil Component Subwoofer Model 06CVX122 Part No. 06CVX122
Sub Total: Shipping: Tax: Total Price:
this is gonna be the cost of everything. not too bad i dont think... i just need to save my money to get it installed now.

 

I'm not too familiar with their newer stuff, but if they kept true to what they had with the bp1200.1 you should be fine.

I'm not sure what a good price is for it, maybe other can chime in.

 

also, keep looking around too. You might be able to find it for a better price.

 

Just to add a tally to the quality of Kicker subs, I have had a pair of Kicker Solo-Baric 12's for 10 years now running off a 1000 watt Matts Audio amp and they are still going strong. While the Kickers may be expensive, they last and sound great. So in the long run, you save money. I also had some Fosgate and Sony components within that 10 year span and none of it lasted as long as these Kickers. Just some food for thought if you plan on purchasing subs again...

As far as amps go, just stay away from anything Wal-mart is selling...and look at RMS ratings on higher quality amps. Usually, you get what you pay for and if it is under a dollar an amp, it probably was made right before exploding while being struck by lightning running off 24 volts or something.