Alright so this is something ive been wanting to do for a while and now i want some feedback and tips on how exactly to do this.

ok so my camaro interior looks like this but without the power switches by the Shift ****:


Now what i want to do on my camaro is add some toggle switches like these:

except they are all the one in the middle.

the purpose of them isnt for windows or anything i want it to control my subs. i want it as a "on=off" switch for easy access and i have not in my days seen them at all.

so for right now what i have for education in this area is this:

i cant just combine them. i will have to use a relay so that the switch doesn't burn out or damage anything. for the 12V i will be connecting it to my fuse box, not sure whitch one yet though. hows this sound so far? the other one i want to add will control my underneath LED lights. and the last will controll my NOS jk haha. hows it sound?? Any Feedback

 

The one to power the amp can just be run off the remote wire on the radio (remote wires->toggle switch->amp) that way it is fused by the radio and will automatically shut down if the radio is turned off but still give you the option to shut the amp down while the radio is still on. As for the under-car LED kit make sure you run a good relay and I would just connect them directly to the battery so that you are not putting any extra strain on the wiring into the fuse panel (plus you can leave the LED lights on when the car is shut off which is always good for car shows or late night meets)

 

id stick with running the sub amp off the remote wire. its what its made for afterall. running it off a switch means if you ever forget to turn it off, it drains your battery. as far as the led underglow, im totally against that. our cars arent imports so why add import crap (and yes i think underglow is absolute crap and very r!cey.) not to mention running the lights on the street is totally illegal. so unless you plan on doing car shows its pretty much useless.

 

well for the underlights i want it to match with the colors, and the toggle switches will only work for on.off if the cars on using a special relay so even if i do forget itll turn off, the reason i want it is so that when i have family i can turn it on off easily at my convinience. and i like the look.

 

Sounds like you need to sell your Camaro and buy a Honda.

 

na. i never want to part from my camaro. well its obvious that i shouldnt get underglow neon so im not, but should i get the switch to control the amp?

 

I have that, everything is wired properly and normal but the remote wire runs through the switch so when my kids are in the car I can just shut off the W7's

 

nice man, is it a nice setup?

 

you can accomplish the same thing with the settings in the head unit (well most head units atleast). i dont see the point in adding in a race looking switch to control something that is already controlled by other means. my head unit has a sub level. i can turn it completely off, or use a power setting of 1-5. 5 being full blast.

 

na mine isnt that kind, i want to invest but ive used most my money on the engine itself, and i only get 300 a paycheck,

 

I think so, but everyone has there own opinions, my switches are not like the ones you want to use, but they do the same as you planned, I seem to not have any pics of the switches, will have to rectify that

Here is a link to my build, I never got around to posting it on here, maybe I should this weekend, keep meaning too, always get distracted, lol
http://www.ccfbg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=7840

 

very, VERY nice setup you got goin there man!! what are the dimmensions for that box for trunk??

 

^^ so loud he keeps extra strength advil in the centre console.

 

i like the three switch setup. as far as the switch for the amp, definitely yes. i have always ran a switch. currently it is below the headlight ****. yes the radio has a setting for the subs and the crossover has a **** that is on the side of the console. but the switch gets used when i see a cop. sometimes you have to shut it down quick.i dont know how your noise ordinance is but where i live they are getting kinda strict. and it is the same as race mods, meaning after a few $250 tickets they can impound the car.

 

same here, they get really mad for being a lil loud but when they dont look everyone has there stereos loud, alot of late night cruisers.

 

thats what they make a volume **** for. if youre blasting the radio loud enough for a cop to notice and want to pull you over, youre blaring it too loud to begin with. and most noise ordinances only apply within city limits and they usually have a starting time of around 7pm-10pm. you dont need to be blaring a radio that loud that late anyway.

 

but what about people who install sound systems into there cars?? we didnt install them to not be played, we installed them too show off the sound to having one of these is a need, yea cops have there rules but its not gonna stop someone from showing off there bass and subs.

 

if youre installing a sound system in your car to just show off, then youre missing the point entirely. the only way to get them loud enough to "show off" is to really crank it, which degrades the sound quality. the point to a better sound system is better sound quality, not volume. if you want volume, build a sound competitor car that you cant even drive anymore or be in when its turned on....

 

i understand what u mean man but idk how it is where your from but sound over here is a must have, i guess it depends on where your from. some people have a system so loud it shakes my windows. i see my camaro as a car with attitude know what i mean but i get where your coming from as well.

 

i had 2 1400watt 10" subs in there that i just took out. along with amplified 6x9s and 4x6 plates in the dash. i could rattle my garage if i wanted to, but i didnt. its pointless to have it so loud you cant hear the music anymore. i hate when people pull up beside me and all i can hear is the horibbly distorted bass comming from their rattling trunks. you may get people looking at you like that, but its only because theyre trying to see what kind of moron (no offense) wasted their money doing that.

 

haha yea i guess thats pretty true also, no offense taken, well the setup im working on is i got 2 12 inch sub box from dual. bp10204. it has neon inside the box and everyhting so its so nice and chrome around. i want to install those. i dont want it too loud but i want it good. i also have a custom box that is alumapro and is 12 in and that thing alone costed 800 but i dont want to abuse it so i want to go lightly because it is hi def. hey man got a question. would bass stoppers work for the speakers under dash so i can have bass goin straight to subs and have my hi-def sound in frton so i can hear the whole song not just bass??

 

if you plan on amplifing the interior you can adjust the freqs they get from the amp. if not thell get full range if you run them directly off the hed unit.

on the dual subs, dual is more of a cheap option, not really built for quality (thats why you find them at walmart). i wouldnt waste my time trying to put more than 100 watts or so through those subs. youre not gonna get bone rattling bass out of them without melting them down, they just arent built to handle good amounts of power.

i ran my subs and interior speakers off 2 seperate amps, the into ive got full range going to my 6x9s in the back, and just the mids and highs going to the 4x6 plates.

i pulled my 10s and alpine amp out of the back and traded it off for a parts truck. since i recently picked up a box built for the hatch area for cheap thats cut for 12" i plan on upgrading to a set of 12" subs and an amp to match.

 

nice, yea its because ive seen these bass stoppers that you attatch to the speakers you want the bass to not go to and it will just be treble, and there only like 5 dollars. but maz is 50 watts and the front speakers i got are 40 watts so it will work. thats why i asked but u guess i should try 1st. have you seen the preices on alumapro?

 

bass stoppers? You mean capacitors? capacitors attached the the power wire of a speakers will limit the lower frequencies from going to the speakers. I use capacitors even with compenent systems that have external crossovers.... even if u think the watts compare from amp to speakers doesnt mean the frequency is right. get some capacitors from ur local audio shop and install them with ur speakers. u should have ur sub running from a separate amp as ur dash speakers... ur dash speakers wont last or ur sub wont hit.

ur dash speakers also dont need to be amp. it would be stupid to amp them. if u want to hear the music that is. look how far they are from ur face.... ur not listening from ur trunk: hopefully.

get a good radio and just attach em to ur speakrs... get a 2 ohm stable radio and u can bridge it.

 

no, i mean bass stoppers literally, you connect them to the negative and positive of the speakers line and the problem is that i dont want ANY bass coming from those speakers, i want just treble so that noise comes out hi def not just bass. im not saying ima amplify the dash speakers, but no matter what when i raise the stereo bass comes out, so im going to stop that by useing bass stoppers, here is what they are.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=266-200

thought you would know about these.

 

travis401..... uhm? anyone that boasts about 1400 watt 10s.... ill just stop there

u can have sound quality and have it louder then a metallica concert. U never have to sacrifice quality for spl.... u need sound stage and in these cars its soo simple, as well as not having that shitty vibrating noise because these cars are solid.

blasting music as loud as possible is ****ing fun and awsome..... its teh best wen u can fee the beat and have those high ringing bells in ur head..... but i do eat a lot of molly lmao

 

just use inline capacitors.... its the same thing.... look at teh internals of an amp.... its what they use.... coils and capacitors

 

haha yea, ok so this is how my setup is planned so far:::

sony Xplod 40 Watts to replace front dash speakers (these are freakin AWESOME and HI DEF)

My AlumaPro Speakier in trunk and my 2 12's in backseats. now the only thing im looking for is a good setpup to sontroll the 2 speakers in the back so when companys here, BAM there off. do any of you too know what are some good speakers to put in the back seat speakers covered? those are the only ones i havent changed?? and dimmensions for them??

 

lmao.... ok bass blockers = inline capacitors lol..... yea use bass blockers for the dash speakers.... i have em for my dash, kicks, and sails.... with the amp set on full range to power the kicks and sails

 

infinity 3 way 6x9s are awsome.... i use megaloud speakers for everything because theyre made local

 

JBL GT1410 1400w max 275w RMS 10" subs. is there something you dont understand about that? and to get music that loud in a car, you loose sound quality, unless you drop wads of cash on high end speakers.

 

i have another question. how good is it when you get the soundproofing for cars? my brother offereed to do it free. is it good??

 

ur 1400 watt speakers are 275 wrms..... what i dont get is why everyone boasts about max wattage when ur wrms aint even half the max.... u lose sound quality when a specific speaker gets too loud, yes, buts that just cause the speakers are distoring..... build a better speakers or match the watts and ohms better

 

sound deadening is awsome.... in our cars its not worth it because they are so solid... build ur system first and then see if u need dynomat or something like that and then just put it at the spot. only placed i notice rattle was the gas tank filler neck.... put on dynomax on it and poof no more rattle.

 

aaww i see. thank you for the information. well imm off to work on the injectors in my cammy. tty guys later.

 

anyone who suggests that doesnt give advice worth listening too. sorry, but im done with this thread of youre gonna act like you know it all about car audio. to the OP. take what you read with a grain of salt and do some research on your own.

 

do u honestly know how much that sound deadener weighs? too much to be worth it for his build sorry.... but it seems i do know more about audio then u.... sorry, just the way it is....i wasnt goina just sit back and troll why u tell this kid he shouldnt blast his music or it will sound like crap lmao....

 

noise ordinance is different for cars, at least here anyways. it is not actually a "noise violation". the actual term is "noise amplification in a motor vehicle". it is a criminal misdemeanor. and with the natural acoustic shape of our cars or any hatchback the volume does not have to be very loud.

 

Sundown Audio's 600rms 10's could handle that.
Not to mention their Z line that's rated at 1500rms.

You don't have to cover the car in sound deadener, you could pick and choose the right spots and less than 20 pounds with most the benefits.

Not really true, plenty of mid range subs can hit near their peak excursion with minimal distortion.

What? the average thirdgen sounds like its going to rattle to death when it goes over a speed bump...

o.O How do you expect dash speakers getting probably less than 10rms each, To keep up with any sub getting more than 100rms? They won't, Just some people get use to how it sounds to have subs overpowering their music.

Even the most stubborn people will agree you need AT LEAST 1/5th the power you have going to subs, to go to your mids/highs.

And your subs being in the back hatch makes them quieter? Horn Effect? What?

A 800rms sub can sound great on a 100rms amp, A 800 Rms amp, can power a 100 watt sub just fine.


Ill stop now, Just my opinion

 

very well stated, all opinions acceptectd. dont forget to vote, you guys are wheather i do or dont.

 

What would be really cool, is a switch like they use to do for high beams on older cars, on the floor.

Step on it once, amp cuts off. Step on it again, cuts back on. no taking your eyes off the road, easy to get to.

a flush mount on/off switch for the leds, mounted under the center vents where its not really visible. Or maybe on the side of the console, right between the seat and the console.

I'm a sucker for stealthiness, as for them doomsday jet fighter toggle switches. I'm not really a fan, but if that's whats your going for, go for it.

 

lol that was funny right there, yea man i remember those switches haha i used to think those were for a boost on the car or somehting when i was a pee wee

 

only place i dynomatted was the dash and dash board... that thing rattled. I havent noticed any rattles from my birds body, just some creeks here and there cause some parts need greasing.

ac delco head unit wont power good 4x6s but a new head unit doing 35 rms will be more then plenty. the speakers in ur face and bouncing off the dash make them loud. a sub in the rear well will sound quitier because of the hatch, and the sound waves not being able to travel. it probably increases sound pressure tho, but im not sure about that.

The sub will drown out the mids but highs should be audible over the subwoofer. the subwoofer shouldnt be all you hear even if it is more powerful then the other speakers, unless ur banging sum wakka flakka were its constant bass line

 

Didnt know he was sticking with a stock headunit

Btw, What head units are pushing 35rms per channel, only ones i know of are them old alpine vpowers or whatever. Theres $300 alpines that only put out 18rms

I want one of these mythical headunits lol

 

ok, 20 watts from my jvc arsenal.... 35 sounded good tho.... powers the infinity kappa 4x6s nicely