I have a '84 Z28 L69 camaro that I purchased from Buckz28 in September. When we bought it had the following issues:
1. high idle speed
2. choke plate removed (poor cold starting)

What I've done with my son's help:
Replaced the oxygen sensor,
rebuilt the q-jet carb.
replaced the choke thermostat and choke heater relay,
replaced the plugs, rotor & distributor cap,
replace all vacuum lines,
replaced the PVC valve.

It is running pretty smooth and starts well but it will only idle down to about 1000 rpm and it is showing code 44. There is only a couple hundred miles on the oxygen sensor so I think it's something else. I'm not sure what to start with next.

Here are a few options I've considered:
1. Adjust the IAB on the carb.
2. Check the M/C solenoid duty cycle
3. Check the timing (even though its not idling at 800 rpm)
4. Measure the vacuum somewhere (not sure where to start)

Anyhow I need a little guidance on what to do next and in what order (if it matters).
Thanks

 

Stupid Question Time:

Did you adjust the throttle stop? Previous owner probably bumped it up to compensate for the lack of choke...

 

I adjusted the idle speed screw (screw with a spring on it) but not the solenoid style throttle stop (I think it's a solenoid - no book in front of me).
What happens is that it dies due to a rough idle below 1000 rpm.
Thanks for responding.

 

Have you tried this:

Disconnect all of the vacuum hoses and plug the ports on the carburetor. And I mean all of them EXCEPT the hose that goes to the vacuum pulloff on the passenger's side of the carb. Plug everything else. See if there is any change.

Inability to idle below 1000rpm is almost ALWAYS either a vacuum leak or timing.

 

Or a choke idle adjust screw turned in too much.

The choke pull-off can be checked without removing everything else. Plugging the EGR valve is sure to change idle speed.

Also check for any binding. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle arm, and with choke off, make sure the throttle cable will reattach without having to open the throttle any.

As recommended above, make sure the timing is set correctly.

 

The timing was set at 4 degrees BTDC so we adjusted it to 10 BTDC. We were then able to bring the idle down to around 800. We took her for a test drive and seemed fine but the check engine light came on after a short freeway run when we were coasting. Will check the code tomorrow. Also noticed we now have an arcing plug wire, so probably need to take care of that next.
Any recommendations for spark plug wire routing? They currently drop down below the exhaust manifold at the back corners of the block but this is where they contacted the manifold on the drivers side. Also, any new good finds as far as spark plug wire recommendations? I'll check the archives for recommendations as well.
I'll check the choke pull off as well just to make sure its set correctly. That was a part I replaced when rebuilding the carb.

Thanks

 

The spark plug routing is fine as it is, that's where the factory put them. Make sure they're clipped into their looms along the side of the block. Resist the temptation to re-rout them over the top; there's nothing better about that.

I'd recommend the Taylor Spiro-Pro wires. DON"T get the cheeeeepest thing you can find that claims to fit. Don't change the routing; put the new ones back on exactly like the old ones were, just make sure they're in the looms and can't fall out. Replace the looms if necesary.

 

Anyone have pics of this set up? I need to get mine routed properly. I have none of the stock looms in mine either.

 

I found a set of Taylor spiro wires that I will install when they arrive. We also replace the valve cover gaskets and idle dropped some more. The old gaskets may have been a vacuum leak source. Thanks for all the help.