i have a 305 that came out of a caprice as far as i can tell its stock inside and headers perfromer intake and soon a holley 600 cfm vac secs carb. i think its a 4160 but how do i tell? it had no metering block on the secondary side so i figued 4160 idk. but what do i need to do to the carb before i put it on my motor? its a remanufactured holley. and what else can i do for perfromance? someday when i get the money im gonna put in a 383 but thats like 1yr from now so what can i do between that time? that 1/4 mile should i run with that stuff i named? i have a turbo 350 and 3.42:1 rear gears oh yeah i have underdrive pulleys on it too. thanks guys later

 

If you have the stock q-jet on right now, I wouldn't bother with the Holley b/c you'll need to replace your distributor with an vaccum advance non-cc distributor. Not sure if the turbo350 has TC lockup, but if it does you will have to fix that too. The stock q-jet flows up to 750cfm anyway. I would suggest using the money you would spend on the carb/distributor/tc lockup for a new cam, maybe something close to the bigger cam they put in the 305HO(L69) engine. Just my

 

my engine isint stock it came with a v6 from factory and someone gutted all the computor stuff so i have a v8 with an hei dist. it has a vacume advance right now so why would i have to change that for the carb? also how do i tell if my tranny has a lockup? and if it does or doesnt why does that matter? thanks man

 

sorry man, i was under the impression that you had the stock cc carb setup- i would still say cam is the way to go

 

I have a 305 with the holley 4160 carb and performer intyake (and I have a set of the 2210's in the garage... ) The carb identifing marks will be on the air horn or near the air horn for that model. Not haveing a metering block on it does not mean alot anymore. My 4160 has metering blocks on both ends now. with center hung floats instead of side hung floats.

(you can buy the conversion for the 4160 to 4150 for like 70$ or so... it is nice being able to fine tune the thing.. finally almost have it where it needs to be.)

now.. with the performer intake and the holley 4160 carb, you will run into hood clearance issues. basically you are going to have to cut a hole in your hood for your air cleaner, or get a cowl induction hood. Reason being is in my camaro I only have 1.5 inches of room in between the top of the air horn and the hood, which is not enough be a long shot to have good proper airflow into the carb, not to mention the filter size will be rather laughable.

for performance stuff you could always go with some heads (the stock ones are ok if you have the ported and rebuilt, but it is just a wiser choice to get some new heads that you can switch to a bigger block later) Also a cam will do wonders. Now.. If the block has never had the cam changed in it.. you will probably want to tear it apart and replace the timing chain and the camshaft and the lifters all at once... reason being is that a worn gear can really mess with timing. (I had a stock timing set on a 305 from 83 (the original engine in my 83 camaro) that took a dump because the gears and chain were stock with 160k miles.. so the poly gears were done....) Then with the ignition ... I have always like a nice stong ignition, So I opted for a 50,000volt hei coil, that is boolted to my firewall instead of incap. and then I cut the springs and to adjust the mech advance and an adjustable V ac advance and adjusted that. (that made a world of difference from stock to aftermarket)

Next ,depending upon your application, I would get a nice holley fuel pump and regulator for it. That way if you ever go with a larger setup or a different setup you have the fuel preassure and volume you will need, but then the regualtor will be there to protect your carb from overflowing. (which really is no fun at all)


Now.. with that holley 2160 carb, you will need 2 brackets. one for the throttle, and one for the TV cable for the carb, not to mention the TV cable arm that goes on the carb (the 4160 comes stock with a ford cable arm, not a GM arm where the tv cable attaches to the carb) these three things are VERY important, so do not skimp... I did at first, and the first problem i had was a Folded up the throttle cable braket when I stepped on the gas.... my springs were a little heavey for it lol. second the tv cable could never be adjusted right which I think was part of the problem of my original trany burning the clutchpacks out.


lots of things you have to deal with. Another thing you may have to deal with is how many vac accessories do you still have? I have a few, 3 are hooked to the carb (brake, pcv, vac advance) then I have a tree right behind the carb for full manifold vac, where I have the stock cruise pluged in and the HVAC line pluged in. the 4160 does not come with to many vac ports that can be used for some of the things.


long post I will be quiet now lol.. Oh yea.. make sure you have some new motor mounts in that thing too. else you will have to deal with exaust clanging on the passenger side..... (have that now)

Oh yes, also with the carb, you may need to do some fine tuning on it for power valve, and the vac sec spring to get the fuel circuit just right. oh ea. and on the squirters and accel pump... that pump shot is a bugger..

 

hey man i know a guy whos gettin me 2 studs to go in the holes on the bracket.one to pull on for the throttle and one to pull the tv cable. i hope they work ok. where did u get ur adapters??? also the biggest port on the carb, is that pvc or power brakes? if its not brakes what do i do about that? and i dont have cruise either. i dont really wanna go that deep into the motor casue im droppin a 383 in like next year so yeah what else for perfromace? thanks guys

 

Yes. the port on the side (the big one on the passenger side) is for brakes or pvc... I ran my brakes to that and the pvc to one of the smaller ports (it actually works.. i put the pcv hose onto any other port and it pulls so much vac through it i end up with a vac leak at the pcv lol) the brackets i got for it were from holley themselves.. it makes darn sure it all lines up where it should.. and also the arm that goes onto the linkage for the carb that the TV cable attaches to. those are pretty much the most important things is the tv bracket and the arm for it.. that way your tranny stays good. Most of the brackets I buy come from summit or jegs... although... now that i have one, the next car to get a holley on it I will just make a set using the other's as a template and be done with it. The reason i was giving you things like heads and such was simply because you can pull them off and put them on a 383... Might as well gut the 305 for everything you can se on the other one when you swap.. and easier to get it a part at a time than all at once.

 

wow thanks man ur so much help, so ill run my brakes to the big one on the passenger side, then my dist. advance to the smaller one on the metering block at the front right? then the pvc to the smaller one on the bottom of the airhorn, i think thats what its called anyway, the bottom part of the carb on the front. i hope it all works out ok. i talkd to a good samrt guy that i know at a parts store and he said some ppl just do away with the kickdown b/c all it does is downshift the tranny when u mash the throttle, so then u just have to do it by hand, but i think ill still hook it up anyway. so ill have to change the bracket that mounts to the intake also? the one that holds the plasic of the cables too? where should i get that one? thanks for all the help man, later

 

basically.. if you have a 700-r4 transmission and you do not hook up that TV cable.. you will get about 1000 miles before your transmission is toast. it will not shift right at all. The TV cable is not just a kickdown cable. it controls the line pressure for your transmission clutch packs along with doing some other stuff.. So the guy you talked to is not as smart as he wants people to think.. The thing people do for the 700-r4 is the TC lockup.. for that since you are going to not be using any CC things you will need to wire up a switch that will allow you to manually lock up your torque converter. which you will want to do, as it will extend the life of your trans a ways (reduces a bit of heat) If you really want to learn about what the different things on your trans do go to. www.700r4.com they have lots of nice info along with cables and such..

There is an arm on the holley carb that you hook the TV cable to.. that one most time you have to buy since the carb only comes with a ford kickdown cable arm, not one for the 700r4.
Then you have to get the brakets to hold the tv cable and the throttle cable. Those can be found on summit or jegs. the other one you can get right from holley now I believe. You might want to go to the holley website and do a little looking for that carb and accessories for it. The biggest mistake people have is with the transmission.. those things are there for a reason. and remving them will shorten the life of that transmission alot.. or have it not work at all.. For an example.. unhook a 700-r4 TV cable and then try to move the car.. do not do it to long though... should only take you about 3 minutes to figure out it will not work that way.

I would take a pic of mine, but I have to put my brackets on first for it. (I have not run mine since redoing a few things and I have not gotten the brackets back on it.)

at least it is winter time.. so there is no rush. unless you drive it in the winter. in which case... well.. not a good deal lol.

but yes.. If you contact Holley's t3ech support, they will tell you exactly what you need to do in order to have your 700-r4 work with thier carb..

You can even ask the people at www.700r4.com. they will be able to tell you as well and point you in the right direction. one you get the trans cable stuff all done.. the rest is very easy to do

 

lol thanks for the last post man, but it was pertty much completely useless lol u musta missed i have a th350 lol. also it is kinda a big deal cause i am drivin it in the winter lol yeah yeah i know itt be bad everyone makes fun of me but i get my liscense in like 7 days and i knida wanna get it done before then, the studs for linkage were susposto be in today but they werent so tommorrow i hope, puls i have a vacume line going to my tranny and i was told that thats what controlls shifting in my tranny, and the tv just helps idk what do u think? u know much about the th350? thanks man

 

Yea. I have a th350 (and yes i missed that lol but still a good read for you, never hurts to know things lol). I puled it from my 1980 camaro when I t-boned a Protoge at an intersection when he ran a light... If i remember right.. Mine would not downshift into passing gear without the kickdown cable.. pretty much what it is used for i think.. the rest is indeed done by vac line.. (you should have 3 vac lines going to the th350 if i remember right. at least it looked like vac line on mine when it was pulled. and then the kickdown.. the kick down is a little different then the 700r4 TV cable.. since the TV cable combines the funtion of the Vac and the kickdown. So basically on yours the fluid pressures are controled by the vac , and your kickdown cable only deals with WOT kickdown (mostly for passing) So yes.. I owuld think you could remove it from a th350 without any problems.. since it does not deal with fluid pressure really. only thing then is you would have to downshift manually in order to drop it a gear at WOT for passing and such. (I still have mine and it only has 60k miles on it lol) also since it does not control fluid, the bracket i was talking about really does not apply for it.. since it is not as critical.... you can look on the summit site.. not as expensive. but if you are going to street drive it as a normal auto, i would still hook it up.. unless you go with a full manual valvebody.... in which case you can delete it for sure, since shifts are dictated my where you shift it then. sorta like a manual, only without a clutch....

 

Oh yea in fact, I have a book around here that deals with the th350 (rebuild scematics, ect, ect from when i was using it in my '80 If i can find it I will let you know.. nice trans, only bugger is no overdrive for hiway running.. which is my killer... everything is 65 around me and with the 3 spd I was always pushin 3500rpm... now, if you are racing, the 700r4 will be behind, but if it is a long race (like a hiway thing) the 700r4 will beat the th350 in sheer maximum speed, because the th350 will tach out sooner.. (only reason I am not using my th350 right now.. buuuuut.. that may change if i get a progect car)