I have a 1984 Firebird SE, with the 2.8 6cyl engine and a Rochester 2BBL E2SE carburator, all stock.
Can someone please tell me what the CFM of this Carb is?
I am thinking of replacing it with a Holley. Is there a direct replacement?

Thanks!

Chris

 

I believe the varajet E2SE flows up to 300 cfm. Why not rebuild it? Look how long it lasted, and how long will it be before you're under the hood tweaking on a Holley product? Not long. Just my opinion but Holley is an inferior product to Rochester.

 

Wow, really? I thought Holley was better than Rochester, and then Edlebrook is better than Holley, but only makes carbs for 8 cyl.
I don't think the carb needs to be rebuilt. It's just a weird problem that nobody around these parts (Long Island, NY) seems to be able to fix. The choke doesn't close when you cold start it, and doesn't stay closed, so the idle is slow and always wants to stall until it's warmed up. Once it's warmed up, it's fine, EXCEPT for right hand turns...then it tries to stall unless you play with the gas pedal. I've had 3 mechanics look at it. One said I should trash it and get an older carb with no emissions stuff on it, and trash all the emissions stuff on the rest of the car. Being over 25 years old, they don't do emissions testing on it anyway. But the car actually passes emissions the way it is. Anyway, that's too much trouble. And I'm clueless when it comes to carburetors...my dad never taught me...

Chris

 

Edelbrock is better than something, that's pretty funny.

Has anyone tried rebuilding the carb and replacing the choke coil yet?

 

only problem with those carbs is the float, change it if you rebuild it.
They can sink n flood the engine with gas.

I like the 2SE better

nothing beats a well tuned qjet, and that car is just a Qjet cut in half with some better upgrades.

 

Agree, prolly the choke coil.

 

I wrote to the only people around who work exclusively on Carbs explaining the situation. They quoted my friend, who has an 87 Firebird with a V8, for a rebuild, $318. Something about the plate warping and having to tap it out, and something about the carb being linked to the tranny through the computer. I don't know, but it sounded kinda strange. Again, though, I know absolutely NOTHING about carburetors...but that did seem a bit high for a rebuild.

Chris

 

You can rebuild it yourself for a lot less, as long as you're careful and pay attention to detail.

 

I'd love to, but to tell you the truth, I don't even know how to take it off. The guys before me had all the hoses wrong and I had the check engine light on. My mechanic sorted it all out and now it runs fine except for what I previously posted.
So, bottom line, it's way out of my league.

Chris

 

I know for a fact that the guys here will be more than happy to help you with your carb hook ups such as the vacuum lines. The ECM controls the converter lock up as well as part throttle fuel metering in the carb which is why it's a "computerized" carb. It's all about emissions.

Now as far as a rebuild price, I just got my Qjet back from a professional rebuilder and it cost $316.00. I would have done it myself except with two kids and a wife who doesn't understand I need to actually spend time in the Garage to get my car running, I couldn't spend the time on it I needed. Buying a new carb will run you about $400-$500 so $316 isn't that bad.

 

Well, I got a quote of $298 to rebuild my carburetor, and that doesn't include removal or installation. And again, I was told that probably won't solve my problem because I have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I have a really good mechanic who comes right to the house that I'm waiting to hear back from. He's hard to get, but worth it.

Chris

 

No need to trash it. Put a float in it and adjust or replace the choke coil. Make sure the coil connector has power when the engine is running cold.
This is one of the simplest carbs out there, but very effective. You can do it with a manual or online help dude. Take a couple cell phone pics for reference and make some notes....save yourself some money and heartache for letting some hack do it.

 

Removal is easy. There are two electronic connectors on top of the carb that need to come off and on the passenger side is the electric choke power connector that just pulls off Then anywhere from 2-4 vacuum lines you disconnect (PCV, EGR, one going to to the AIR system and one coming from a larger hose on the front (don't know what this one is called) along with the break booster on the back of the base (3/4 and 5/8 I believe are the two wrenches I needed), along with the throttle cable and transmission cable (and possibly cruise control cable) which are just connected with C-clips. Then take off the four bolts on top that hold it to the intake and your done (they are 1/2). Takes 15 minutes tops. Installation is the reverse. Just make sure you use a new base gasket when you do the reinstall. Also, carbs can have an internal vaccum leak. lastly, one of the stickies in the forum here has a vacuum hose diagram so you can trace your hoses to see if one of them is causing the leak.

 

Well, that was really comprehensive. Thanks for that! The mechanic I spoke of earlier is actually coming on Friday, so I'm hoping that will solve my problems once and for all. I also hope it gives my car a bit more power, as it seems awfully slow. I went from my Firebird to my wife's Infinity, which has the same size engine, and it was like going from a row boat to a jet.
Anyway, would you happen to know where that vacuum hose diagram sticky is? I'll search it, but just in case I can't find it.
Thanks again!

Chris

 

Never mind, I found it! The AutoZone links no longer work, but the other link did.

Chris

 

Rochester carbs are awesome. My old qjet was the best carb I've ever had. They sell books at Barnes and Noble with step by step instructions on how to rebuild them, even little tips on how to add power. I got one for a Qjet, it was like 20 bucks.