84 camaro H.O. completely stock with 4barrel rochester

Im on a quest to fix my choke, or so I believe. My issue is when I go to start it in the morning or after a long period of time the car idles at about 1700 rpm, but doesnt go down. The only way ive been able to is revving it at random periods of time till it idles down. Usually takes between 15-30 min poor trans.

So anyway I tried disconnecting the choke today and starting it up to see if it would run fine. I dont know what the temp outside is but its nice and hot. However, to my suprise it was still idling high.

Then while looking over the choke, I saw that the fast idle cam lever wasnt pushing down the choke rod that holds butterfly piece open, and I was able to just push it down and the car would idle fine, but as soon as I pushed the gas it would idle back up and the lever would come back up.

Any idea on whats going on? How would I clean the fast idle cam? It seems simple to take off the carb, should I just do this and clean it all?

 

From my understanding the high idle cam should be moving freely yet i can push it down to have the idle drop, but when i give it gas it sticks back up and idles high. Does this mean its sticking?

 

Hot outside to you and me is not hot to a choke element. It's still trying to kick the choke on, which is linked to the fast idle cam in the choke linkage, which is casuing your persistently high idle.

Do you have a full 12V at the choke element wire with the engine running? If not, the choke is not receiving the power it needs to heat itself and allow the choke to fully relax (open).

If you have good voltage there the problem is the choke element is shot or just horribly mis-adjusted (unlikely since cc-QJets have an indexing tab that only allows them to be installed in one orientation).

 

I havnt gotten to check the voltage, but I thought with the choke disconnected it should idle fine. Will check voltage when I get off work

 

Oh, and I forgot to mention a quick test of the choke heater element..... measure resistance between the electrical connector tab on the choke where the wire would normally plug on and a ground (like the body of the carb itself). A brand new out of the box choke is usually in the range of 5-10 ohms (at normal room temperature). A well used but still good one will be around 10-20 ohms. Anything over 25 Ohms..... it's done.

 

Yup, unplugging the choke wire will mean the choke will never fully open, and it will never come off of high idle.

 

You do know that if you have factory a/c and its all connected if you have the heater/ac controls in just about any position but off or vent that it automatically kicks up the idle speed..............

 

"Heat" position doesn't.

 

The choke element wire is getting 12v

yes I do know the car will idle high with the a/c on...

Ive been dealing with this issue for quite some time, and recently my step-dad decided to soak the high idle cam which has actually helped a little. The high idle doesnt come back on after driving on the highway for a while, and it doesnt stay on as long when I first start it cold.

For these reasons ive decided to start looking for a place/someone to rebuild it for me since I dont have any of the special tools needed. Thanks for any and all help

Now anyone know a good place/person to rebuild carbs

 

You own a screwdriver and a wrench, right? You can rebuild it (with some guidance the first time). I wouldn't recommend tearing into it if your only QJet expertise is from us guys over the internet- too much stuff you have to see and touch with your own hands to answer definitively. But you can do it with common hand tools. All the "special" tools you can work around for a time-not-critical home rebuild attempt.

 

Unfortunately I would be on my own with this and my expertise has been learning as I go.

Maybe ill buy a junk carb to rebuild myself while mine is getting rebuilt by a professional

 

From my understanding the high idle cam should be moving freely yet i can push it down to have the idle drop.