So I just bought this thing....will this be a direct fit...if not how moding would i need to do?thanks!

i got a 84 z28 with a LG4 carbed engine.

 

spreadbore replacement carb you don't state what the jetting or pv is.

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R8340-1.pdf

 

dont mean to sound dum but where can i find this..?

 

It is supposed to be a direct replacement but I'm curious, why are you replacing your quadrajet in the first place?

 

you can pull the front bowl to get to the metering block, This carb came setup lean so I might tune out as is on a 305.

 

well....its been running rough....and Im just curious as to how it would run with this holley on it...since ive already boughten it....got it for $65 wat do u think?

 

are you replacing a ccc ?

 

woudl yopu happen to know where online i can get more specs on this carb..?what I type in to find the exact match online?thansk!

 

i am looking to replace a cc q-jet

 

it is a 7002-1

http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

you will need to change your distributor as well to a non cc you get get a hei vacuum advance unit for cheap.

 

ohhh okay i seee tnks how much to these carbs run for anyways...

 

Call Summit Racing Tech Help & ask if the Holley Geometry Corrector will work on it.
If it's a direct replacement you **may not** need the Corrector.

 

I personally wouldn't put this carb on without a rebuild first...and if it came down to that I would rebuild my quadrajet instead...That's just my opinion though, the Holley may work fine without so much as a rebuild.

 

I have nothing against replace the cc Q-jet but there's more involved in just replacing it. I would not install a non-controlled carb unless you are ready to replace the distributor as well. Without throttle position feed back the computer won't be able to set the timing advance and the car will not run right at higher rpms.

 

Don't forget torque convertor lock will be lost too.

To summarise the above posts - OP - you'll need to:

* Re-kit the Holley. It's used, dried out, and therefore almost gauranteed to leak.
* Replace the dist with a vac advance type.
* Remove the now-useless ecm. (or just ignore the corpse)
* Sort out the torque convertor lock.
* I suspect do something with the fuel pump relay (maybe the useless ecm can still control that - anyone?)
* Figure out how to time it right.
* Figure out how to tune the Holley right.
* Enjoy worse mpg.

Ie, it's a bigger undertaking than just changing the carb - you up for it? Also you are in Cali, so it's diabolically illegal to boot i believe.

Edit: Oh yeah, probably lose fan control too, if it's electric.

Edit 2: I'd just fix the Qjet

 

In my opinion people are too quick to throw the Quadrajet in the trash can because of the perception of added power with an aftermarket unit. Not only will you get worse gas mileage as treefiddy mentioned, but comparing a properly working Quadra and Holley, you will not get a performance boost from the Holley. I love my Holley but If I had the factory quadrajet instead of CFI originally, I would not have my Holley.

If you are dead set on going with that Holley though, you can either buy a kit for the converter lock up problem or wire in a manual toggle switch. There is a good step by step on here, search for Ed Maher's post on it. In terms of the fuel pump, the relay will still receive power so no worries there.

Take these posts only as personal experiences and some constructive criticism and do what you want to do...any problems along the way and you'll get a world of help from these message boards!

 

Also, I remember from one of your other posts that you had a vacuum port on the carburetor open. Did you ever take care of that issue and re tune? You mentioned above about the Quadrajet running rough and I just came across that other post again..A vacuum leak would make your car run extremely rough so I'm just curious

 

Do you have to pass emissions tests in your part of California? If so, you probably better make sure that you can even use that carb.

 

I wouldn't use that carb. You would do better rebuilding your q-jet. I have never had any luck with a spread bore. It will most likely be to big for your 305.
Just my opinion!

 

ye its still open but nothign is else....as far as i can recall its always been open...but now for some reason my car is running fine again...Now im strating to think that my running roughness is more of a ignition thing not so much my carburator...eventhough I do belewive its still running rich....but other than that I think I will be needing a new distributor.....

but IDK if you guys already anwered it but what exactly is the make(obiously Holley) and model for this carb because I think ima just end up keeping my q-jet and post this sucker up on ebay...

 

LG4 motors don't have a fuel pump relay. They use a mechanical fuel pump that is bolted to the engine block
The ECM doesn't control the fan on LG4 cars. The A/C and/or the thermal switch in the passenger side head provides the ground to turn on the fan relay.

One thing you didn't mention is that the ECM also controls the A.I.R. system. There are two ECM controlled valves that provides fresh air to either the exhaust manifolds or the cat. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to pass tail pipe testing with out this.



OP, don't just tear into your car before you find out what you can and can not do in your area. Hate for you to have to spend money on parts and then have to buy other parts because you can't get your car tagged.

Also you just mentioned buying a new distributor. Unless your dizzy has bad bearings you don't have to get a new one.

Here are a few tips for an internal HEI Dist.:
Get a good distributor cap and rotor button - not the cheapest store bought brand
Get a good rotor button like MSD brand - they have lower resistance for better spark energy
Check the connections on the spark module located on the dist base - these can get corroded and loose

Other options that are not always necessary:
Aftermarket spark module - My brother had problems with his HEI up at 4K and higher and after two replacements with stock type parts this mod fixed it.
New Coil - GM makes one of the best HEI coils on the market, even the VP of sales at MSD will tell you that but over time all things break down and wear out. Only way to tell if your coil is getting weak is to check it with an ignition o-scope.
Spark Plug Wires - Wires wear out over time and some have more resistance than others. The more resistance the less energy getting to the plugs. Do not put cheap part store brand wires on your vehicle. spend the money and get a good set. It's worth it!
Dist. gear - Like anything else parts wear and this could wear out to where there is enough play that your spark timing is all over the place. This is rare but if you have the unit out it is good to check it for wear and replace it if it is worn.

 

If you have an open vacuum port on your carburetor you have a HUGE vacuum leak. This is a HUGE problem! Put the vacuum line to whatever it's supposed to go to back on or plug it if that has been eliminated for some reason. Before you do anything else fix this. You cannot properly tune or diagnose with it this way.

 

 

She's pretty much already crossed that bridge... she put headers w/o AIR on the car.

So at this point, it doesn't matter what else; 2 years max (when inspection time rolls around), and it'll be in the junkyard.

Some people won't listen, but instead just gotta learn the hard way.