ok guys iv got a topic for you to discuss
pros of keeping the rochester vs pros of the eddy or holly
my rochester is in a very sad state and needs a rebuild and set back to factory settings thanks to the previous owner thinking he was a good mechanic it idles at about 1500 in park and neutral and 1000 in gear i just swapped in a 350 but it did this before with the 305 i also need to set timing but i dont think it will change it too much.
my dad brother and step brother all say to take it out and put a regular carb and distributor in there and run it not really what i want to do but i want to drive it this summer i havent gotten a full summer out of it since i bought it 3 years ago
please discuss so i can get a good idea on the route i want to take (im leaning towards a new or rebuilt E4ME)
pros of keeping the rochester vs pros of the eddy or holly
my rochester is in a very sad state and needs a rebuild and set back to factory settings thanks to the previous owner thinking he was a good mechanic it idles at about 1500 in park and neutral and 1000 in gear i just swapped in a 350 but it did this before with the 305 i also need to set timing but i dont think it will change it too much.
my dad brother and step brother all say to take it out and put a regular carb and distributor in there and run it not really what i want to do but i want to drive it this summer i havent gotten a full summer out of it since i bought it 3 years ago
please discuss so i can get a good idea on the route i want to take (im leaning towards a new or rebuilt E4ME)
five7kid
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I would strongly encourage you to ignore the advice of your dad, brother, and step brother.
So, you carb needs to be rebuilt and adjusted. Well, rebuild and adjust it! As long as there is no damage to the hard parts, such as a warped air horn from not removing the screws in the choke tower before trying to pry it off, it should be rebuildable. It would be cheaper to buy a rebuilt E4ME than to convert over, especially if you're running a factory intake manifold.
IF you consider any carb type other than the original, you'll have to buy distributor if a non-computer q-jet, intake manifold if yours doesn't have provision for a squarebase mount, and some means to lock up the torque converter clutch. If you buy this all new, you'll be out at least twice what a rebuilt E4ME will cost you.
As for the adjustments - they really aren't that hard. Back in 2007, I bought an '82 Berlinetta with LG4 in California. The rules there state the seller is responsible for the car passing emissions, so there were quite a few new parts on it, including a very nice looking rebuilt E4ME. The seller had warmed it up for me, so I didn't discover until the next day that it wouldn't idle when cold without babying the throttle - I didn't have any tools with me (long story, don't want to tell the whole thing here), so I went to KMart and bought a tool kit that allowed me to do basic adjustments, and got it home (in Colorado). They had tied the choke open because they either didn't want to or didn't know how to make the simple choke adjustments. In the next week, I spent the time to make sure everything was set to factory specs, including timing, IAB, fast idle speed, curb idle speed, TPS, etc. After that, it would start up when cold and run without being babied, and run perfectly when warm. The California emissions test wasn't accepted here in Colorado, but even with over 300k miles on the engine, it went through the emissions dyno sniffer test here with flying colors.
Before all that, I had another '82 Berlinetta into which I swapped in an '86 LG4, and later put a ZZ4 clone under the LG4 stuff, including rebuilding the carb and setting everything to factory. It also ran great and would pass emissions tests easily.
Moral of the story - don't give up on the E4ME. It's a good carb.
So, you carb needs to be rebuilt and adjusted. Well, rebuild and adjust it! As long as there is no damage to the hard parts, such as a warped air horn from not removing the screws in the choke tower before trying to pry it off, it should be rebuildable. It would be cheaper to buy a rebuilt E4ME than to convert over, especially if you're running a factory intake manifold.
IF you consider any carb type other than the original, you'll have to buy distributor if a non-computer q-jet, intake manifold if yours doesn't have provision for a squarebase mount, and some means to lock up the torque converter clutch. If you buy this all new, you'll be out at least twice what a rebuilt E4ME will cost you.
As for the adjustments - they really aren't that hard. Back in 2007, I bought an '82 Berlinetta with LG4 in California. The rules there state the seller is responsible for the car passing emissions, so there were quite a few new parts on it, including a very nice looking rebuilt E4ME. The seller had warmed it up for me, so I didn't discover until the next day that it wouldn't idle when cold without babying the throttle - I didn't have any tools with me (long story, don't want to tell the whole thing here), so I went to KMart and bought a tool kit that allowed me to do basic adjustments, and got it home (in Colorado). They had tied the choke open because they either didn't want to or didn't know how to make the simple choke adjustments. In the next week, I spent the time to make sure everything was set to factory specs, including timing, IAB, fast idle speed, curb idle speed, TPS, etc. After that, it would start up when cold and run without being babied, and run perfectly when warm. The California emissions test wasn't accepted here in Colorado, but even with over 300k miles on the engine, it went through the emissions dyno sniffer test here with flying colors.
Before all that, I had another '82 Berlinetta into which I swapped in an '86 LG4, and later put a ZZ4 clone under the LG4 stuff, including rebuilding the carb and setting everything to factory. It also ran great and would pass emissions tests easily.
Moral of the story - don't give up on the E4ME. It's a good carb.
KrisW
Supreme Member
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Jul 17, 2025
I'll go one better; its a GREAT carb. If you have to buy another one, go and get one for a 350 that was in a half ton pickup so it will be set for your larger engine.
Also don't forget that when you swap to a 350, you need the ESC module for a 350 car to regulate your ignition properly.
Also, your 87 305 should have the center bolt valve covers, right? Those heads run really nice on a 350 and you have the 305's matching intake in case your 350 is the old style and you're running the old 350 intake. The heads are much better than the 350 center bolt heads from a TBI truck engine.
There's plenty of guys here on the forums that do this 350 swap with all of the electronics left on it and run great. You can do it, too.
Also don't forget that when you swap to a 350, you need the ESC module for a 350 car to regulate your ignition properly.
Also, your 87 305 should have the center bolt valve covers, right? Those heads run really nice on a 350 and you have the 305's matching intake in case your 350 is the old style and you're running the old 350 intake. The heads are much better than the 350 center bolt heads from a TBI truck engine.
There's plenty of guys here on the forums that do this 350 swap with all of the electronics left on it and run great. You can do it, too.
If you get a new or rebuilt ccc e4me, then you're still going to have to adjust the settings. This is because that while the rebuilders set the carb to settings for your carb, how it performs on your engine will vary (happened to me). I'd suggest setting the timing to where you want it and then adjust the idle as a starting point. There's a ton of great posts on how to adjust the idle in this forum so take a search you should have it down from 1,000 to about 700 or even lower no problem (its probably just gonna take a quick turn of one screw to lower your idle).
One more cool thing: The 1987 carb has a couple of improvements over previous carbs like an additional port to improve fuel economy and another for helping with smooth start-ups even after the engine is really hot from short trips. The previous years are great too, but its nice to know ccc carbs kept improving here and there throughout production.
One more cool thing: The 1987 carb has a couple of improvements over previous carbs like an additional port to improve fuel economy and another for helping with smooth start-ups even after the engine is really hot from short trips. The previous years are great too, but its nice to know ccc carbs kept improving here and there throughout production.
Member
I have a rebuilt E4ME from eBay that I bought 2 years ago. Rebuilt using all new parts. Will sell for $100 plus shipping. PM for details/pics if interested
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five7kid
Moderator
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Quote:
If someone is trying to sell you an E4ME saying all of the adjustments are preset and no further adjusting is required, find another seller. You have to do the final adjustments on the car. Yes, presetting will help the initial start, but that's it.Originally Posted by scooter500
If you get a new or rebuilt ccc e4me, then you're still going to have to adjust the settings. 
Junior Member
Quote:
So, you carb needs to be rebuilt and adjusted. Well, rebuild and adjust it! As long as there is no damage to the hard parts, such as a warped air horn from not removing the screws in the choke tower before trying to pry it off, it should be rebuildable. It would be cheaper to buy a rebuilt E4ME than to convert over, especially if you're running a factory intake manifold.
IF you consider any carb type other than the original, you'll have to buy distributor if a non-computer q-jet, intake manifold if yours doesn't have provision for a squarebase mount, and some means to lock up the torque converter clutch. If you buy this all new, you'll be out at least twice what a rebuilt E4ME will cost you.
As for the adjustments - they really aren't that hard. Back in 2007, I bought an '82 Berlinetta with LG4 in California. The rules there state the seller is responsible for the car passing emissions, so there were quite a few new parts on it, including a very nice looking rebuilt E4ME. The seller had warmed it up for me, so I didn't discover until the next day that it wouldn't idle when cold without babying the throttle - I didn't have any tools with me (long story, don't want to tell the whole thing here), so I went to KMart and bought a tool kit that allowed me to do basic adjustments, and got it home (in Colorado). They had tied the choke open because they either didn't want to or didn't know how to make the simple choke adjustments. In the next week, I spent the time to make sure everything was set to factory specs, including timing, IAB, fast idle speed, curb idle speed, TPS, etc. After that, it would start up when cold and run without being babied, and run perfectly when warm. The California emissions test wasn't accepted here in Colorado, but even with over 300k miles on the engine, it went through the emissions dyno sniffer test here with flying colors.
Before all that, I had another '82 Berlinetta into which I swapped in an '86 LG4, and later put a ZZ4 clone under the LG4 stuff, including rebuilding the carb and setting everything to factory. It also ran great and would pass emissions tests easily.
Moral of the story - don't give up on the E4ME. It's a good carb.
I agree 1000% about the Quadrajet E4ME. I have an '84 Sport Coupe with original never rebuilt carb on the 350 engine I installed. It is computer controlled with just the secondaries tweeked (all external modifications.) It has been said that the Quadrajet carb is as close to fuel injection as a carb can get. I am a believer...stick with it. The only drawback is the usual problem of the accellerator pump well dripping dry after the car sitting for a period of time. Keep you battery charged.Originally Posted by five7kid
I would strongly encourage you to ignore the advice of your dad, brother, and step brother.So, you carb needs to be rebuilt and adjusted. Well, rebuild and adjust it! As long as there is no damage to the hard parts, such as a warped air horn from not removing the screws in the choke tower before trying to pry it off, it should be rebuildable. It would be cheaper to buy a rebuilt E4ME than to convert over, especially if you're running a factory intake manifold.
IF you consider any carb type other than the original, you'll have to buy distributor if a non-computer q-jet, intake manifold if yours doesn't have provision for a squarebase mount, and some means to lock up the torque converter clutch. If you buy this all new, you'll be out at least twice what a rebuilt E4ME will cost you.
As for the adjustments - they really aren't that hard. Back in 2007, I bought an '82 Berlinetta with LG4 in California. The rules there state the seller is responsible for the car passing emissions, so there were quite a few new parts on it, including a very nice looking rebuilt E4ME. The seller had warmed it up for me, so I didn't discover until the next day that it wouldn't idle when cold without babying the throttle - I didn't have any tools with me (long story, don't want to tell the whole thing here), so I went to KMart and bought a tool kit that allowed me to do basic adjustments, and got it home (in Colorado). They had tied the choke open because they either didn't want to or didn't know how to make the simple choke adjustments. In the next week, I spent the time to make sure everything was set to factory specs, including timing, IAB, fast idle speed, curb idle speed, TPS, etc. After that, it would start up when cold and run without being babied, and run perfectly when warm. The California emissions test wasn't accepted here in Colorado, but even with over 300k miles on the engine, it went through the emissions dyno sniffer test here with flying colors.
Before all that, I had another '82 Berlinetta into which I swapped in an '86 LG4, and later put a ZZ4 clone under the LG4 stuff, including rebuilding the carb and setting everything to factory. It also ran great and would pass emissions tests easily.
Moral of the story - don't give up on the E4ME. It's a good carb.
Junior Member
Quote:
Also don't forget that when you swap to a 350, you need the ESC module for a 350 car to regulate your ignition properly.
Also, your 87 305 should have the center bolt valve covers, right? Those heads run really nice on a 350 and you have the 305's matching intake in case your 350 is the old style and you're running the old 350 intake. The heads are much better than the 350 center bolt heads from a TBI truck engine.
There's plenty of guys here on the forums that do this 350 swap with all of the electronics left on it and run great. You can do it, too.
I was concerned about the swap when I put a 350 in my '84 305 LG4 Sport Coupe. Had a check engine light and rough idle when I first fired it up. Lo and behold after letting it run for awhile then starting it up the second time, no engine light and idle smooth as silk. The computer made the air/fuel adjustments on it's own...no other adjustments. I tweeked the secondaries with external adjustments for a bit more fuel/airflow and quicker opening. It's the original Quadrajet never been apart. Feels like fuel injection to me.Originally Posted by KrisW
I'll go one better; its a GREAT carb. If you have to buy another one, go and get one for a 350 that was in a half ton pickup so it will be set for your larger engine.Also don't forget that when you swap to a 350, you need the ESC module for a 350 car to regulate your ignition properly.
Also, your 87 305 should have the center bolt valve covers, right? Those heads run really nice on a 350 and you have the 305's matching intake in case your 350 is the old style and you're running the old 350 intake. The heads are much better than the 350 center bolt heads from a TBI truck engine.
There's plenty of guys here on the forums that do this 350 swap with all of the electronics left on it and run great. You can do it, too.