i have an 86 iroc-z with a 71 350 out of a c10 swap. i bought the vehicle from a local guy and got a great deal. i was getting fuel in oil and found(thanks to this site) that he capped off the line that went to the charcoal canister. i put a vented filter on it and changed the oil. still fuel in oil, so i changed the mech fuel pump, still fuel in oil. changed oil again and unhooked the supply line to find out that both the electric pump in the tank and the mech were pulling and pushing. so i bought a holley 12-803bp regulator(had one on my v8 carb s10 swap) and got rid of the mech pump since the elec was working fine. i installed and now it wont start. i unhooked the supply line after two days of research without trying to start and fuel just kept coming out. i double checked my lines and they were correct. after about thirty minutes and two bottles of starting fluid i decided to post my first question on here. i unhooked the supply line and turned key to see if fuel came out and it did before deciding to get rid of mech pump, so i know elec works. i don't understand how its not going thru my regulator. it says that the regulators are tested before being sent out, could that be bullsh** and i have a faulty regulator or are there any other ideas? thanks in advance and sorry for long post

 

What carb? Does it have a fuel filter at the entry to the carb?
If it does check it.
Can you put a gauge on to check pressure?
Just a quick thought. Hope youre cruising soon...

( edit )
Sounds like you are not new to fuel delivery
However
Double check the
In & out lines.

 

Dumb question. Does it start when you spray starter fluid through the carb. if not take the the fuel line off the carb. then spray it again and try to start. to me it sounds like you keep flooding your carb. if she still dont start. guarrentee your spark plugs turned black from the flooding. to the point where you wont be able to get spark. change them. take the regulator throw the **** in the garbage. buy your self the stock mechanical fuel pump from carter. its like 30$. pop her on. You want to make sure your only pushing 5 to 7 psi to carb. Anything greater is going to flood.

 

its a shitty edelbrock I plan on replacing with my tax return, I do have a fuel pressure gauge and a see thru fuel filter in line from the out on my regulator line going into my carb. It does start and I spray more in to keep it running and check my gauge and my filter. no fuel getting to either. definitely not flooding I would need fuel to get to my carb in order for it to flood. I appreciate your opinion as well but I prefer the regulator setup for my vehicle, I feel it has more advantages, and its also easier (normally ha). It also seems like you think I have a cheap regulator on there it is a bypass style regulator so it can take the fuel pressure from the elec pump and get it down to 6.5 where I want it. Also the stock fuel pump for the vehicle is in the gas tank it is an "F" vin Camaro, the motor would have had a stock mech pump but not the vehicle itself.

 

Possible the sock filter in the tank is needing replaced?
I ask only since there is no fuel in the line.

 

if you get good amount of fuel when taking the feed to the regulator off and running it into a bucket then the regulator is bad. if not the problem is upstream in the car. pump, filter, leak, etc.

 

The cars that came with a dual pump system didn't come that way from the factory. It was a dealer installed option/fix. The mechanical and Electrical pump cars were designed to run on the mechanical pump with "help" from the electrical pusher pump. This electrical in-tank pump is only a helper and pushes maybe 3 PSI. Enough to start and run the car at idle but it was only designed to help prevent vapor lock in the earlier models and not provide enough fuel by itself to drive the car.

Do you have a gauge on your regulator? Carbs work on volume not pressure, so you need to ensrue you have 5psi for proper operation.

 

You must have missed this part:

 

i wonder if you could post what did come with what for people like me who arent familiar. my original pump is going strong still regulated to 6 psi, but it was originally a mpfi 2.8

 

Just had a tbought--
If the tank pump is not working, would the manual pump be able to draw thru it?

 

Is the pump still avalible ? Or is it something that is now discontinued?

 

well, after more diagnosing and research, I found it was a vehicle with the dealer option electric and mech fuel pump, I got the pump itself. decided to go ahead and get a new pushrod as well. Of course no parts store has the bronze tip pushrod. I got it ordered and should be up and running by Tuesday. thanks for the info guys and I would have never known that it had both. I've never heard of it or seen it so awesome info!! the best news is I get eighty bucks back for the regulator!! only spent fifty on pushrod and pump

Thanks ozz, and it was a 305 before. google "F" vin Camaro and it will tell ya everything ya need to know.

 

My manual pump pulled through the dead electric pump in my car for I don't know how long until I replaced both with an in-tank 255lph pump.

 

I would like to know if the electric pusher pumps are still avalible.
Becauce I always have to prime my fuel lines b4 I start.
Don't drive the car often.

 

Even with the pusher pump, you'll still need to pump the gas a few times. The fuel will go into the bowl with the pusher, but you need to pump the gas to prime the carb. Just the nature of carbs.

 

ok so I got the fuel pump on and the car has been running for awhile now. I happened to check my fuel pressure gauge and it at 11psi!!!!! I took the in line off the mech pump and its at 2.6 psi, no fuel in oil or anything so I feel the mech pump is fine. what would cause it to run higher psi? it was running high before but only like 7.5 not 11. would the bypass style regulator work if I just capped off where the return line is? I would have the fuel line to the in on the regulator and just have the out going to carb. or would I need to buy a regular regulator? I don't mind either way so if it is even just better to run the non-bypass style I will get one, but figured with me having the bypass style already why not see if it would work. Also if anyone has any ides as to why it would jump to 11 psi that would be great as well.

would it be a good idea for me to make a trap door and just take the electric out? seems easier to not have to worry about it. or should I keep it for vapor lock reasons?

 

What fuel pump do you have on now?

Are you still running the BP regulator?

I read through this whole thread again, and I'm afraid I can't tell what your configuration is now.

 

its the stock one. I got it from advance, cant remember exactly what brand. I decided to buy a non-bypass regulator instead of waiting for a response. I know it was quick but I only have so many off days lol. I got everything hooked up and its running at 7. the regulator I got is a 12-803, it is a single in, dual out regulator. I had the place I bought the regulator from cap off one side and I just ran the lines. it idled better, sounded better(could hear the cam really well) but the side they capped started leaking like hell. It takes a huge allen key and most of my tools were at work. about to take it off, Teflon tape the **** out of it and see how it goes. if I take the fuse out for the elec. pump will it still pull through? or is there some type of diaphragm or something on the elec pump? wish me luck dudes

 

nevermind on the fuse, just read otis' post about pulling through the dead pump.