Replacing Mechanical Fuel Pump on my 1984 Trans AM 305 LG4. Just a few questions for everyone:

1) I got a Carter M6626 Pump. It came with (3) Gaskets (all look the same). Should I stack them and put all 3 on? Or just one gasket? I heard the further you keep the pump from the block the cooler it is for the fuel?
2) Do I need any type of RTV on those gaskets to the block/pump? or just put the gaskets on dry and tighten?
3) What should the torque be on the (2) Fuel pump bolts?

Thanks in advance for answers....

 

 

Personally I wouldn't stack any gaskets. A thin layer of RTV on both sides and you're good to go.
Torque as illustrated above.
As for isolating the pump from engine heat, there are specific products made just for that.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...vy-fuel-pumps/

 

I assume you know about moving the fuel pump pushrod up so that the arm of the fuel pump can be put in place?

 

Something I've learned although I've never seen it posted was another function of the 3/8" bolt hole that's intersects the fuel pump pushrod passage.

Mine is drilled and tapped clean through. It allows me to put in a long bolt so as to pinch the fuel pump push rod in the up position (provided the pump lobe on the cam is on it's base circle). Makes for a much easier install.


Not my hand...

 

RTV works. I actually like to use Gaskacinch, as it seals great and is so much easier to clean off the next time you need to replace something. I used it on the fuel pump gaskets, waterpump, and waterneck...

 

Also make sure that the Camshaft is not in a position where the Fuel Pump Push-Rod is in the "Extended Position".
The Fuel Pump Push-Rod needs to be on the Base-Circle of its Lobe.
Otherwise the Fuel Pump will not mount to the Cylinder-Block.


Edit: I see now that Skinny Z was already on top of this!

 

I would be more concerned... over that not being my Rust-Filled Coolant Passages (visible via the Water-Pump).

 

Thanks for everyone's reply. I actually didn't know about this "I assume you know about moving the fuel pump pushrod up so that the arm of the fuel pump can be put in place?


I thought this was an unbolt and rebolt. anything special i need to do ahead of time to make sure the rod goes in properly? Thanks for the assistance.

 

It is.

Those of us who have done about a half-million of them over our lifetime, can do one in our sleep with one hand tied behind our backs. I recall one time, one of my wife's cars needed one; she went down the street to buy one (about 6 blocks maybe); as I was pulling her car into the garage; I noticed I had one in stock; in the 10 minutes it took her to go down to the store, buy one, and get back, I had already finished the job, from jack-up to crank-up. Somebody who has never done one, it's a kind of quirky thing, which means there's a pitfall or 2. which is what you're being exposed to: acoupla tricks of the trade to save you some potential aggravation.

 

That's an internet image of unknown origin. But, yeah, that's a lot of rust in there.

 

The simplest way I've found is done with the pump removed but the rod still in position. Pushing the rod up into the block will determine how much of it is "sticking out". Cranking the engine by hand and you will find the rod will follow the cam pump lobe and the rod will move in and out. When it's furthest into the engine is when you stop rotating. The rod is now on the lobe base circle.
The trick is keeping the rod in place while the pump is being installed. If the bolt trick in the image posted above doesn't work with your block (it's hit and miss depending on the block vintage) covering the tip of the push rod (engine side) with some grease will hold it in position long enough to swing the pump in.
That should do it.
Hope that helps. It's more difficult to explain than it is doing the job. One handed or otherwise...

 

Thanks for everyone's help. I'll update when its swapped , hopefully this weekend or early next wekk.....

 

if you go to hold the rod up with the bolt, don't torque down on the bolt too much. just enough to hold it in place.

if that bolt's a little stiff to turn you may not notice how much pressure it is imparting on the brittle rod

 

And the last tip is when you replace the bolt that you took out of the block be sure it's the bolt you took out and not a longer one as it will bind the rod. A little sealer on the threads when reinstalling it will prevent any oil seepage from that bolt.