Can I run a small 12in fan off of this hot/thermostatically controlled line ?
I would like both fans to come on at 190* using a 180*thermostat.

 

The diagram is just a thought.
If we eliminate the first diagram completely I basically have found two choices.
Wire the 12in fan to a hypertec lower temp. switch($50.00) in the stock location making sure only one fan comes on at a time so its not so hard on the charging system.
Or this =
http://bumpersuperstore.com/i-114312...-in-probe.html
It will allow one fan to come on first then the second fan comes on at a 10* variance. I believe there is a 15* difference between coming on and off.
($109.00)

 

I'm kind of surprised to not get any feed back .I was kind of hoping for a few positive suggestions. My objective is to keep the car under 200*.
Once the car hits 190* it generally stays there unless its in traffic where it climes to 220*or higher as is and since I have a 16in. pusher coming on at 190* I'm going with a fan switch for the 12in.puller that will come on sooner than that. I'm going with the 4026 Hypertech 176* on and 166* off. I realize that once the fan comes on it will most likely stay on until I shut the car off but that's the hole point.The charging system will be free of any fan draw until then and that will also allow only one fan to come on at a time. I have done some research and found the 12in. fan pulls 8.8amps while running and the 16in. pulls 16 amps. I'm cool with that. Get it "cool".


Side note = The 12in. fan is also mounted over a 14x17in. oil cooler that has 6 passes engine oil that is controlled by a thermostatic sandwich adapter that only allows the oil to run at 180* and the trans. oil runs through 4 passes at a constant flow. Just another reason for the early fan switch.

 

Just to finish off this dead thread, I wired the 12in. puller fan into the schematic shown above using a 20amp fuse with no problem. Works great and took about 10 minutes to do.

 

So you have 28in total of puller fans on the rad?

 

Sorry the diagram does suggest that and it will be fixed .Its one 16in"pusher" in front of the condenser pushing air through to the engine and one 12in fan mounted on a 14x17in oil cooler that is mounted on the inside on the radiator "pulling" air through towards the engine with a180*thermostat .Both fans are now controlled by a thermostatically adjustable switch set at 190*



This is a trial run to see if it helps keep the temps under 200*

Side note = The 12in fan and cooler where already mounted where they are now except it was wired to the stock switch coming on at the stock temp.as back up.It was coming on right around 220* and I decided that was unacceptable.

 

I'd just as soon put it on a switch for heavy traffic driving, with a 3row aluminum rad I never get above 180 in the summer on the highway with no T-stat. When I get my car running again we'll see how it works with a 170* t-stat.

 

Gave the car a test drive today including 5 miles highway and 20 minutes stop and go traffic in midday 100* weather. Considering the temp. outside it did well. Kept it from getting any hotter than 220*.

That’s acceptable for now in this heat. I will run this configuration for a bit to see how it acts. If I don't like it I will move/replace/upgrade what is necessary.At this time I really only have this cooling issue and finding a nice set of bucket seats left to do ,so at least this gives me a project to work on. I like those.
By the way I had my engine temp. tested with an infrared gun and the gage is correct.