Please go look at this video so I can find some answers on this problem. Its been doing this for about 2 weeks now and I don't want to take it to a mechanic and pay those prices, trying to it fix myself. I have no clue what this symptom is called. This doesnt happen when the car is cold. The temperature sensor has been replaced as well as the idler air control sensor has been replaced both trying to fix this problem. Its a third gen Camaro 1992 with a 305 TBI and a 700r4 trany.

 

Did you reset the idle air valve as per this article in the How-to section? Needs to be done, you can't just stick it in there
https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2/

 

Its your ignition control module in the distributor. Its going out. Replace it with a new one. 20 minute job at most.

 

i have no idea, a mechanic shop replaced that one when the problem first started to occur

 

Is there anything i need to replace the ICM besides the actual module?

 

I used one Phillips Head screwdriver and one 5.5mm 1/4 in socket w/ extension.

 

Make sure you use all the grease that is supplied with the new ICM

 

where should i use the grease?

 

It goes on the bottom of the module before its bolted to the distributor.

 

Before you go all swaptronics on it - get yourself an ALDL cable and find out what the ECM is actually seeing, where your BLM and INT are at, what your O2 voltage is when you try to accelerate like you did in the first part of the video, and you coolant temp sensor output, etc.

This could be fuel delivery, or a bad CTS sensor/connection. Many things. You have to know what the ECM is seeing and how that compares with reality. Being OBD-I (ALDL), you aren't going to get much help from DTC's.

If the ICM was already swapped and there was no change in the symptom then that's likely not the whole story here.

GD

 

I installed a new ICM and the problem still occurs, I made sure to install it correctly too.

 

Yeah I bought a new ICM and the problem still occurs.

 

Hard to hear the engine, but what i heard.I would check the ignition coil.

 

Why the ignition coil?

 

Got a new ignition coil, installed it, and the problem still occurs.
I also rest the IAC valve but unplugging it when the key was in the on position then turned the key off, then plugged it back in and the problem continues to happen.
I am frustrated lol

 

Did you even bother to read my post?

GD

 

I have no idea where to find that or to use it.

 

Then you must search the forums and google and learn how. Here's the cable:

http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl....html?cPath=64

Either that or pay the man with the tools to do it. How much troubleshooting with Visa are you gonna do?

Without talking to the computer you can play swaptronics till you decide to scrap the car and it will probably never run right. This is electronic fuel injection. It's nothing new or complex. But you can't do troubleshooting without the proper interface.

GD

 

The engine I have in the car is a 305 TBI, I dont have the hardware for the program or the cable.

 

The software is free, Tuner pro rt and $61 adx.
moates.net has the xtreme aldl cable 1.

 

Here is the adx needed

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...1228746-a.html

 

It doesn't require much. Buy an old laptop from ebay or from the pawn shop. A $75 used laptop will do the job. Get the cable from moates. The software is free and the definition files you need are also freely available.

Sorry but if you aren't willing to get the proper diagnostic hardware I don't see how we can help you. All I have is a keybaord and an internet connection. I can't use either of these tools to diagnose your car.

GD

 

UPDATE: I have found out that it's a fuel problem, I'm checking the vacuum lines today, if theres no leaks then its the fuel injectors or the fuel pump. Mainly the fuel pump because its still the same one from factory.

 

Check fuel pressure, tbi injectors rarely fail.