Hey Y'all,

I am currently in the process of doing an LS Swap on my 1982 Camaro. It came stock with the 305 SBC with the single belt-driven fan. With the LS Swap, I want to go to the route of using dual electric fans, but being the cheapskate that I am, I'm trying to find a setup that will work with my stock radiator. I've come across 3 main options:

Option 1: Stock 3rd Gen Dual Electric Fans ($200 from Hawk, comes with upper mounting bracket, lower mounting bracket, and the dual fan harness)
Option 2: Stock 4th Gen LT1 Dual Electric Fans ($150 from Hawk)
Option 3: Stock 4th Gen LS1 Dual Electric Fans ($75 from Hawk)

I've heard the stories of people being able to make the LS1 dual fan setup work well with the stock radiators, but I am struggling to pin down the specifics of how to mount that up (that is, if it can even be done practically on cars that came stock with the belt-driven fans). The price on the LS1 setup is pretty hard to beat. The stock 3rd gen dual fan setup isn't too bad of an idea either, as I'm fairly certain it will mount up painlessly, but its the priciest of my 3 options and I'm not sure how the airflow of it stacks up to the other two. If y'all have any advice on which setup to go with before I pull the trigger on new fans, I'd really appreciate it.

 

If you are on a budget of $200 or less...
Forget the Factory-Fans.

One high-flow 16" Spal Fan will spank any of those Stock Dual-Fan configurations.

If your budget were higher, I would recommend two 11" or 12" Spal Fans instead.
The fan in the Image below is about $180 and works very well:



Here is a Hyper-Link for a 16" Spal Fan that I have used with Engines up to approximately 550 HP with a good aftermarket Radiator:

Link

This fan draws about 25A, so I would use a Relay and Fuse good for 40A.
When the Fan turns on it will briefly draw about 35A... in my own testing.

My testing shows about 2,000 CFM flow... but readings will vary as testing and equipment vary (making CFM not so great for judging performance).
Otherwise there are more expensive Spal 16" Fans, if you want more cooling power.

Mounting can be done easily with some aluminum flat-stock from Home Depot or Lowes.
Do not use "Through Radiator" mounting-hardware.

 

The LS1 fans fit in beautifully..... The LT1 fans are similar, but i found them to be a bit thicker up top and on the bottom for my V6....it has a bit of clearance issues with the ac hoses...if I didn;t have the hoses in the way thouse would fit well too......... they are easier to service though since each fan assembly can be removed individually....... both have the overall same shape / design AND both will accept TPI, LT1 or LS1 fan motors.....even V6 fan motors, so if yore really on a budget you can piece them together....

You'll need the factory radiator shrouds of a non mechanical fan shroud to make things easier..........well you COULD make it work but im not too familiar with those lol

i also have a emergency SPAL up front.....The fans are much quieter than the SPAL though and replacement motors are easy to find.

Several ways to mount.....

1. Those zip tie looking things that go through the radiator.
2. I bolted mine up to stock radiator holes that my radiator had AND used the upper fan shroud to keep it in place
3. use only the fan shroud to keep it in place
4. Fab up a custom bracket...its pretty simple.

 

 

1st pic LS1
2nd Pic LT1
3rd pic LS1 with installed top shroud


The bolts weren't completely necessary / I know some radiators don;t have the holes mine do... but again you could use those zip things.. / the top shroud. i actually used some fabricated mounts before I found a nice shroud.


I don't know if the older cars are like the newer ones, but the fans just sit nicely in a channel by the stock radiator.


The only 4 cuts I had to do were

1. Cut the shroud to fit the fans....
2. Cut of the 4? tabs on the fans that mount them to the 4th gen radiator...you don;t need those and it wil lgive you more space.
3, I decided to keep the tabs on top of the shrouds so I cut that notch that keeps the fan in place as you can see.
4. On the TPI car, I had to cut a little notch / square holwe to allow the MAF bolts to nicely clear the shroud.... not necessary but I like it nice lol


On the stock TPi electrical system, the 2 LS1 fans suck way to much power so I had to go with 1 LS1 fan and 1 TPi fan motor.. Cools amazing and pretty silent.


Side note.... the best radiator shroud to use is off a single fan car cause its wider on both ends...dual fans are wide on the passenger side and thinner on the passenger side.....some people claim you just trim the stock radiator shroud and it "squeezes" the Ls1 fans against the radiator holding it in place.... I don;t see how as the Ls1 fans are about a half inch thicker and i could find no way to just use the shroud to "squeeze" the fans against the radiator unless you g oaround trimming the LS1 fan shroud down....

LS / LT fans have higher amp motors, so they benefit from pulling more air than the stock TPI motors... also the shrouds make them wasy more efficient... you can however get Ls1 fan motors and throw them into the Tpi fan housings.... .but theres no shroud etc... TPI fan motors wil be an easy direct swap in but they are probably the least efficient of the three.....



Using the methods I mentioned seem to be the easiest / fastes.t. If you can drop a Ls1 motor in the car you can easily mount any fan...ven the taurus fan I'll bet

 

I've got a 16" spal fan on the eng side and a 14" spal in front of the radiator. Engine side fan runs off the ECU, 14" fan runs off a temp sensor and the Hvac for a/c usage. I fabbed a shroud for the 16 unit for extra cooling.

 

I guess Spal Electric Fans are relatively known now, as Holley has been selling them for 5 or 6 Years now...
But I have been using them for about 20 Years.

Originally, I had to import them from Italy.
Spal won the First Contract agreement for Electric Cooling Fans for NASCAR use/ regulations/ requirements.
Spal made a great Name for themselves in the US, this way.

I have had nothing but great experiences with their Fans.
They offer mild to wild applications.
I can buy a 16" Fan that draws 15 Amps for a daily-driver...
Or a 16" Fan that draws 50 Amps for a track-car that I want to Hot-Lap.

 

I cant complain, i really like mine. I was originally going to use the OE dual fan set-up, but they just seem a little small for the task. Even at two, i doubt they pull the CFM needed

 

I use stock dual fans from a late '80s Camaro without any trouble. Local speed shop even told me it was one of the most temperature stable cars to ever be on their dyno. I have a Modine brass radiator from the late '90s that was popular with the big block swap crowd. I do not use AC though and that definitely matters on hot days.

 

I noticed lately that the SPAL website looks like they dropped a lot of products? About a year or two I purchased some pusher SPAL fans and researched them on their website, but noticesd those along with a lot of other things are no longer listed...

Did somebody buy them out? I see some of their designs are the same or really similar as h9nk "be cool" branded fans now

 

Holley (as in Carbs and EFI) has controlling stock of Spal USA...

Which website were you using?

 

I was looking on the spal website. before each inch of fan had a huge number of offerings...straight blade, curved blade, pusher, puller etc..

now for example, the 11 inch fans just have 2 options, a single curved fan or a dual straight blade fan.... . The 10 inch only has 1 option/?? unless I am missing something? I just bought a pusher 10 inch and a pusher 11 inch a year or so ago and now they are no longer listed.


11" Fans | SPAL Automotive USA (spalusa.com)

10" Fans | SPAL Automotive USA (spalusa.com)

 

this looks almost exactly like the 11 inch pusher SPAL I purchased


11 Inch Electric Pusher Fan Euro Black High Torque Be Cool Radiator | Be Cool Radiators

 

One more I just found....... the specs are slightly different with the exception if like minor possibly omitted details 5 cfm, .40 inches in size etc.....visually they appear the same?




comparison of the 11 inch duals of SPAL vs Be Cool

2VA06-AP70/LL-37A * DUAL 11"P/12V | SPAL Automotive USA (spalusa.com)

Dual High Performance Paddle Pull 16.26" 4.25" 23.46" 2720 30 Per Motor

11 Inch Electric Dual Puller Fans Euro Black High Torque Be Cool Radiator | Be Cool Radiators

• 11 Inch Qualifier Series Electric Dual Cooling Fans
• Fan Motor: High Torque
• CFM: 2725
• Airflow Direction: Puller
• Max Current Draw: 33 Amps
• Blade Shape: Paddle
• Fan Blades: Dual
• Blade Diameter: 11 Inch
• Unit Width: 23 Inch
• Unit Height: 16 Inch
• Unit Depth: 4.25 Inch
• Fan Color: Euro Black
• Sold Individually
• SKU: 75007

 

After a quick look through a few Websites for Spal USA...
There is hardly any of their products listed online.

I have no idea what is going on with the Spal Websites, but they offer way more Fans and Products than listed currently.
That is very frustrating.
If I were them, I would get those Websites updated before losing too many sales.

 

Pandemic woes vs supply.

 

a lot of other sites like Amazon has some of their stuff but in limited stock, and it doesn;t have that note 'more on the way!" im wonderng if they are planning to close up shop? or maybe they combined with be Cool? and are selling off their SPAL branded stuff?

Curious

 

Here's a possibility for option 1:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...electrics.html

JamesC

 

i used the heavy duty dodge stratus dual fan setup on my 6.0 ls swap. best cooling mod i ever did to that car.

 

what was the wiring like ?

 

it has all the relay's mounted on the shroud. i ran a circuit breaker from the battery to power them and used the factory computer fan1 and fan2 control wires to switch them on.

 

Okay so here's an update for y'all:

I decided to go with the LS1 Fans due to just how cheap they are. Have yet to get everything running so I'm not sure how well it cools for my setup yet, but the fitment was just how you described. In order to just get them mounted in there, we cut up the large mechanical fan shroud in a way that mimics the stock electric fan shroud. It looks absolutely hideous but it does work. Until I can make an aluminum bracket this is what I'm going to go for. I'll update on how well it cools is whenever we get it running.

 

Are you going to use the 4th-Gen Dual Electric Fans in the original Low-Speed and High-Speed configuration?

I highly recommend doing so!
Keeping the Electric Fans on once Operating-Temperatures are reached... extends the life of the Fans.
Having the Fan turn on... then turn off when cooled down, then on again, and off, and on, ETC... is bad for the Fans.

The most stress that the Fans experience is being turned on.
So instead of the Fans turning off...
They can switch from High-Speed to Low-Speed, and back and forth.
Much better for the Fans.

If you need a Schematic... it has been posted on these Forums, many times.
I can even look for you, if you need me to.

 

Duel Spal 13" Fans (zip ties mock up only)

 

Looks very nice!

Dual 11", 12", or 13" Fans from Spal, would be what I install most often for Customer's Vehicles.

What is the Radiator (Dimensions and Manufacturer)?
Is that an ACR Steering-Box?
I like the finish... looks similar to a Yellow Zinc DiChromate Finish.

I applaud the use of the Mock-Up BBC Engine!

 

I forgot to say: I would recommend cutting 2 to 4 small Windows in your very nicely made Fan-Shroud.
With the Shroud that close to the Radiator, and it covering the entire Radiator...
Cooling may become restricted at faster vehicle speeds.
2 to 4 small Windows with a Rubber-Flap over each window, can be a big help.

Note: Round Windows and Flaps would most likely fit better, based on the available space left on the Shroud.





You also need some better Electrical Connectors for those Fans!




Let me know what you need, I have Delphi Connectors for up to 55A per Terminal (Two Terminal Connectors).

 

the fans are 1 1/2in away from the fins..and the fans Pull a total of 4000cfm. (run at the same time).low speed hi speed.sutting off under 120/140deg Connectors will be up graded.it's just what they came with.the 615cid is all aluminum running a electric water pump.with 20AN fittings.
.the rad is a Campion unit is also a 2 core had it made for me.(larger tubes).2"taller then stock and 1/1/2" wider as it sets deep in the support. eng set to run at 160 to 180.. but upgrades can be made if needed.
the steering box is a AGR and Yes I had it Gold Zink plated. then sent it back to AGR to have them put it back together and test it..
also 3rd fan in front of rad (trans cooler) its 6in away from the front of the rad..it's set to run from 130deg off at 100deg.. (9"fan) on cooler.

GM Fans..No room..as they are to deep..


power steering cooler



Catch Can

now vented can

did not like the Canton tank..to big

 

Everything just looks so beautiful!


Even the March Performance "Mid-Mount" Serpentine set-up for the Electric Water-Pump looks amazing!

I actually stopped using that style Electric Water-Pump, for Cars that still do a good bit of Expressway driving.
A mech. Water-Pump with one or two in-line Electric Water-Pumps...
does a great job cooling in the Pits between rounds, and also cooling while Expressway driving.

 

thanks..tryn to do a clean install. and use as many GM parts as I can. heater core will be all aluminum as well. with AN fittings No hose clamps anyplace. all bolts seen in gold Zink are replaced with Chrome Botton head. Alen fittings. for final install. it takes a long time to test fit. all this stuff. but I want it clean and right.

and doing over the top stuff as well..after all..its all about the Fun.

the plastic mock up blocks and trans is a must have. would never do it without them!

 

Very Nice!


I see the Mock-Up THM400 Transmission hiding under there too!

...did you have the original Relay-Bracket (on the Fire-Wall) chrome plated?

 

yes. have had this Camaro for 30+ years. still under 40.000 on the OD. lol . but when it was a month old it was sent to Lingenfelter's for there stage 5 383 upgrade. (pic from 1992)

 

Very, very COOL!


I do not believe that I have ever seen a John Lingenfelter Engine from the Late-80s/ Early-90s with Nitrous-Oxide Injection.
Thanks for Posting your Image!
It is always fun and interesting to see something new (well at least something that I have never seen before).

 

BTW, I LOVE that you run a shorter Stroke than most!
I see too many 632" Builds... I like that you are not just being like the majority!

 

LOL!
Bracket Racing in the 11s!!!
Does that BBC only run on 4 Cylinders?


I used to Bracket Racing my 454, single 4bbl, Third-Gen in the 8.500s (1/4 Mile of course, NMCA Quick-8).
I was spinning my little 454 to about 10,000 - 10,500 RPM, but..
Your Car/ Engine would spank the life out of my old Engine-Combo!!!

 

The small block 383 off the bottle 11.70's with the Nos 10.50's that was back in the 90's car was locked away for CLOSE TO10 years 2003. it broke and I locked it away.this is what it looked like when I opened the doors. (I did pop the trunk) just before this pic was taken.

inside still smelt new. note dust on outer front window. no holes cut/drilled to mount any gauge. all factory screws/holes are used.

 

I love it more and more from every new Photo Posted.


I hope those Auto-Meter Instruments are using Fluid-Isolators...
No actual Oil or Fuel in the Cockpit.
That would be a Huge NO-NO!

 

I feel badly for the OP, that we "Hi-Jacked" the Thread.
I am sorry GrayB.

 

sorry GaryB.

tach mount without killing the Dash. front screw under chin of dash pad is used to hold tach strap.





below. same wheels after wash and Buff. (Better then new)..lol

 

You could also get a regular electric fan shroud too if you come across one... the dual fan shroud does not seem to fit well. Just be aware that the single fan had 2 sizes though.

 

I just like the garter around the tach!