ZIF socket....what's the point?
ZIF socket....what's the point?
Why have a ZIF socket in a regular socket on a memcal adapter? Just to save wear? I guess there could be something else I'm missing, but I don't see the point in having a chip in the ZIF and then the ZIF in the regular socket if not only to save on wear. If that's the case then, why not just put the ZIF straight on the circuit board? Or I could not have a clue. Maybe it is to make pins match up or something. Hope somebody sets me straight on this.
Sorry for the stupid question.
Sorry for the stupid question.
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It is done solely to save wear and tear. The best solution is to use the Moates adapter since the ZIF is directly on the circuit board. However, if you can find a used adapter for like $20 and add a $5 ZIF to it then you end up saving some money ... problem is ... used adapters for $20 are few and far between.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=38944
Tim
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=38944
Tim
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Re: ZIF socket....what's the point?
Originally posted by MikeS
Why have a ZIF socket in a regular socket on a memcal adapter? Just to save wear? I guess there could be something else I'm missing, but I don't see the point in having a chip in the ZIF and then the ZIF in the regular socket if not only to save on wear. If that's the case then, why not just put the ZIF straight on the circuit board? Or I could not have a clue. Maybe it is to make pins match up or something. Hope somebody sets me straight on this.
Sorry for the stupid question.
Why have a ZIF socket in a regular socket on a memcal adapter? Just to save wear? I guess there could be something else I'm missing, but I don't see the point in having a chip in the ZIF and then the ZIF in the regular socket if not only to save on wear. If that's the case then, why not just put the ZIF straight on the circuit board? Or I could not have a clue. Maybe it is to make pins match up or something. Hope somebody sets me straight on this.
Sorry for the stupid question.
Also on the C3s saves having to fool around with the prom sockets.
Saves time on changing the proms, when your talking about 400 R+R's time adds up.
Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for. I had been looking at Moates' site and his adapters and it looked like a regular socket on the circuit board with a zif inserted into it, with the chip inserted into the zif. Maybe I didn't understand his setup right and the zif really is right on the circuit board. Anyways, I got the general idea. Thanks again for the explaination.
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Mike,
Your observation is correct. On my adapter, there is a socket soldered to the PCB and the ZIF is inserted into that. There are a few reasons for this:
1) The way the layout is, if I was to solder the ZIF directly to the PCB, then the solder legs from the IDC sockets coming from the opposing side would interfere with the ZIF body, and it would bind & be cocked on there. The socket under the ZIF acts to space it up a bit. So mother of invention kinda kicked in.
2) Once you decide that your tuning is pretty good and you want to make it a relatively permanent install, you can just pop the ZIF loose and snap the 'final' EPROM into the socket. Then you have an extra ZIF to play around with, maybe put it up on your dash or something, I don't know.
3) If something somehow goes wrong with the ZIF, you can swap it out.
4) If you don't like the 'tall' meaty ZIF, you can swap in a 'lo-pro' ZIF to the socket just as well, and then it'll look kinda like Trax's design.
5) I had in mind also some sort of extension cable or switching device, and a socket made sense for those two directions in terms of expansion capability.
Hope this helps...
-Craig
Your observation is correct. On my adapter, there is a socket soldered to the PCB and the ZIF is inserted into that. There are a few reasons for this:
1) The way the layout is, if I was to solder the ZIF directly to the PCB, then the solder legs from the IDC sockets coming from the opposing side would interfere with the ZIF body, and it would bind & be cocked on there. The socket under the ZIF acts to space it up a bit. So mother of invention kinda kicked in.
2) Once you decide that your tuning is pretty good and you want to make it a relatively permanent install, you can just pop the ZIF loose and snap the 'final' EPROM into the socket. Then you have an extra ZIF to play around with, maybe put it up on your dash or something, I don't know.
3) If something somehow goes wrong with the ZIF, you can swap it out.
4) If you don't like the 'tall' meaty ZIF, you can swap in a 'lo-pro' ZIF to the socket just as well, and then it'll look kinda like Trax's design.
5) I had in mind also some sort of extension cable or switching device, and a socket made sense for those two directions in terms of expansion capability.
Hope this helps...
-Craig
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Originally posted by Craig Moates
Then you have an extra ZIF to play around with, maybe put it up on your dash or something, I don't know.
Then you have an extra ZIF to play around with, maybe put it up on your dash or something, I don't know.
Tim
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Joined: Jul 1999
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Engine: 441 SBC 12.5:1 0.680" Lift
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 TruTrac Moser 9"
Yeah, what we all wouldn't do for a little extra zero-insertion-force socket action...
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
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Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by Craig Moates
Yeah, what we all wouldn't do for a little extra zero-insertion-force socket action...
Yeah, what we all wouldn't do for a little extra zero-insertion-force socket action...


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