What prom burner are you using?, please check in.
What prom burner are you using?, please check in.
I am in the market for a new prom burner and wanted to know what unit(s) people here are using. I had an Epromer, and it worked fine except for burning 29F040's- which is what I wanted to burn. So, anyway- please post your burner of preference. Thanks
I was all set to buy the Burn1 today, but then I noticed that it only programs flash chips. I was hoping for a unit to do it all. I love the single USB cable though. I searched EBAY and found two brands that were represented the most. The Willem and the TOP. Does anyone have either of these? Any problems? At least I know with the Burn1 that Craig stands behind his stuff and offers great support.
Please keep those opinions coming.
Please keep those opinions coming.
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Originally posted by SBNova
I was all set to buy the Burn1 today, but then I noticed that it only programs flash chips. I was hoping for a unit to do it all. I love the single USB cable though. I searched EBAY and found two brands that were represented the most. The Willem and the TOP. Does anyone have either of these? Any problems? At least I know with the Burn1 that Craig stands behind his stuff and offers great support.
Please keep those opinions coming.
I was all set to buy the Burn1 today, but then I noticed that it only programs flash chips. I was hoping for a unit to do it all. I love the single USB cable though. I searched EBAY and found two brands that were represented the most. The Willem and the TOP. Does anyone have either of these? Any problems? At least I know with the Burn1 that Craig stands behind his stuff and offers great support.
Please keep those opinions coming.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
Originally posted by adambros
I don't think it qualifies as a PROM burner . . . but what about the PROMinator ? Absolutely awesome in my opinion.
I don't think it qualifies as a PROM burner . . . but what about the PROMinator ? Absolutely awesome in my opinion.
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From: Fairfield, Ca
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TBI
Transmission: WC-T5
Originally posted by thirdgen88
Sure it is, its just real-time!! Can't wait until I upgrade to that!!
Sure it is, its just real-time!! Can't wait until I upgrade to that!!
I had never "burned a chip" -- I just so happened upon the scene literally the day Mr. Bill announced the PROMinator's completion . . . I'm spoiled cause I never had to erase, burn, or even open the cover of my ECM . . . just download and go. Definately recommend to anyone looking into a single application solution.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: 441 SBC 12.5:1 0.680" Lift
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 TruTrac Moser 9"
I like all of them. Except the EPROMER. It has been reported to toast people's chips. Too many instances for it to be coincidence or user error I'd think. I had three of them and not one could I get to do the 29F040 chips like it should have.
Never used the TOP, looks like another HongKong knockoff on the surface. Seems like I saw a review somewhere of one saying they couldn't get it to work. No consistent info though. Personally I try and stay away from import labor when I can.
Willem, there are a lot of people that are very happy with that one, especially for the price. If you're going to get one though, maybe try and go through www.willem.org to the original designer. I've got a feeling a lot of those Ebay sales are a straight rip from his design. I've talked with him before, and he's a very nice guy.
Everyone knows about the PocketProgrammer. It's a good product.
Think about what you want to do with it and what expectations you should have. What chips are you going to need to program? Which interface cable do you want to use? How's the customer service? What software does it work with? How fast is it? Do I really want a UV eraser? Can I sell it later if I want to?
Never used the TOP, looks like another HongKong knockoff on the surface. Seems like I saw a review somewhere of one saying they couldn't get it to work. No consistent info though. Personally I try and stay away from import labor when I can.
Willem, there are a lot of people that are very happy with that one, especially for the price. If you're going to get one though, maybe try and go through www.willem.org to the original designer. I've got a feeling a lot of those Ebay sales are a straight rip from his design. I've talked with him before, and he's a very nice guy.
Everyone knows about the PocketProgrammer. It's a good product.
Think about what you want to do with it and what expectations you should have. What chips are you going to need to program? Which interface cable do you want to use? How's the customer service? What software does it work with? How fast is it? Do I really want a UV eraser? Can I sell it later if I want to?
I use the SPEP, its a pocket programmer 1 clone and uses the same software as the PPII.
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
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From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: 441 SBC 12.5:1 0.680" Lift
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 TruTrac Moser 9"
Keep in mind that the SPEP is, with pretty good certainty, just an import copy/ripoff (along with the software) from the good folks over at Transtronics. I guess by going overseas on stuff they figure they can get around the laws in the U.S. which protect us from such indiscretions.
Might want to check with someone like Karl over at www.xtronics.com and see what he thinks.
Might want to check with someone like Karl over at www.xtronics.com and see what he thinks.
Originally posted by ben73
I use the SPEP, its a pocket programmer 1 clone and uses the same software as the PPII.
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
I use the SPEP, its a pocket programmer 1 clone and uses the same software as the PPII.
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
Originally posted by Craig Moates
Keep in mind that the SPEP is, with pretty good certainty, just an import copy/ripoff (along with the software) from the good folks over at Transtronics. I guess by going overseas on stuff they figure they can get around the laws in the U.S. which protect us from such indiscretions.
Might want to check with someone like Karl over at www.xtronics.com and see what he thinks.
Keep in mind that the SPEP is, with pretty good certainty, just an import copy/ripoff (along with the software) from the good folks over at Transtronics. I guess by going overseas on stuff they figure they can get around the laws in the U.S. which protect us from such indiscretions.
Might want to check with someone like Karl over at www.xtronics.com and see what he thinks.
Good point Craig.. Maybe they bought the design, maybe its a rip-off, it would be good to know.
Ben.
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 82 Corvette
Engine: 350 CrossFire
Transmission: 700R4
I've been using a Prominator for the past year.. 
I also have a Needham's PB-10 somewhere.. used to use it before, but I hate programming chips. What a nightmare.

I also have a Needham's PB-10 somewhere.. used to use it before, but I hate programming chips. What a nightmare.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by ben73
I use the SPEP, its a pocket programmer 1 clone and uses the same software as the PPII.
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
I use the SPEP, its a pocket programmer 1 clone and uses the same software as the PPII.
It is $79 from http://www.futurlec.com
There's a thread discussing this from some time ago.
So while a few saved a few bucks, it's cost the rest of us.
Personally, I'll just stick with the Prominator, and Autoprom.
Both do an excellent job.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 798
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From: Powder Springs, Georgia, USA
Car: 1992 Black Z28 Hardtop
Axle/Gears: 2002 10 bolt w/3:23
Originally posted by adambros
I don't think it qualifies as a PROM burner . . . but what about the PROMinator ? Absolutely awesome in my opinion.
I don't think it qualifies as a PROM burner . . . but what about the PROMinator ? Absolutely awesome in my opinion.
Last edited by 92BLKL98; Oct 25, 2004 at 08:47 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 786
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From: Guilford, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 w/TransGo
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73s
Pocket Programmer, with PP2 software. The hardware has been updated. I mostly use the flash chips, but still hit the UV chips as well. Never had any problems. If i was just starting out from scratch, would go with Autoprom or prominator. Sweet units. But I will stick with burning and swapping out chips for now. Software, been using Tunercat for long time, good support, but recently started using TunerPro. Can't go wrong there either.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Its great to hear everyones likes and dislikes and really helps the decision process. Although I would love to buy the Autoprom or Prominator- I just cant spend the dough right now. I just bought a new WB last month, and another $300 would really be pushing it. While I am behind Craig 110%, I just didnt really want to spend $85 on a programmer that only works on three chips. Granted- Im sure it would burn those three better (with less complication) than other programmers, but I want more options. Im trying to stick with my 29F040's for my moates switcher, but I do have a bunch of 27c256's too, that I just cant stop using no matter how inconvenient erasing them is. I was however ready to order up the Burn1 today- but he is out of stock. I took this as a sign that it probably wasnt meant to be. So the shopping continues.
BTW- my old Epromer did fine with the 27C256's, it just had a miserable time with the 29F040's. Thats why its sold.
BTW- my old Epromer did fine with the 27C256's, it just had a miserable time with the 29F040's. Thats why its sold.
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
First used a Eprommer.. Worked fine for about 8 months.. Then my flash chips started dying. It's sitting here gathering dust.
Now using a Willem... So far, works great. Bob
Now using a Willem... So far, works great. Bob
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 42
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From: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada
Car: 71 BLAZER
Engine: SBC 350
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt with 3:73's
Prominator here.I just got it and am still learning how to modify BIN's.
I did change a couple minor constants,VATS,fan on/off, and it was pretty easy.
Install was super easy as well.
I did change a couple minor constants,VATS,fan on/off, and it was pretty easy.
Install was super easy as well.
Originally posted by 92BLKL98
I've got both the Pocket Programmer II and the Romulator II and love both units. One Question. According to Xtronics you should not use the Romulator exclusively as the memory device due to the fact that it uses a small watch type battery to keep the memory hot. I've had mine on the car for two weeks now with no problems. Has anyone done this and is it really a big deal? I'm kind of tired of driving around telling everyone they can't ride with me because of the electronic gear in the floor board. As many of you know our cars are a work in progress and I thought about leaving the unit up inside the dash with the ECM
I've got both the Pocket Programmer II and the Romulator II and love both units. One Question. According to Xtronics you should not use the Romulator exclusively as the memory device due to the fact that it uses a small watch type battery to keep the memory hot. I've had mine on the car for two weeks now with no problems. Has anyone done this and is it really a big deal? I'm kind of tired of driving around telling everyone they can't ride with me because of the electronic gear in the floor board. As many of you know our cars are a work in progress and I thought about leaving the unit up inside the dash with the ECM
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From: In your ear. No, the other one.
Car: '89 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5WC
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi
I have:
PP2 - works great. haven't had an issue. many supported chips. drawbacks: pay for software updates, relatively slow burn/read, relatively high price, parallel interface (parallel ports are going away)
BURN1 (Flash & Burn) - also works great (no problems). Very fast burn/read (between 1-2 seconds to write a 32k 29C256), low price, USB. Drawback: only supports writing the common DIY-EFI flash chips (29C256, 29F040, 27SF512), however, it *will* read the classic EPROMS (2732, 27128, 27256, 27512, etc).
AutoProm - same as BURN1 in terms of PROM burning/reading
Prominator - no need for chips if you're using this bad boy. Excellent product (no issues!)
PP2 - works great. haven't had an issue. many supported chips. drawbacks: pay for software updates, relatively slow burn/read, relatively high price, parallel interface (parallel ports are going away)
BURN1 (Flash & Burn) - also works great (no problems). Very fast burn/read (between 1-2 seconds to write a 32k 29C256), low price, USB. Drawback: only supports writing the common DIY-EFI flash chips (29C256, 29F040, 27SF512), however, it *will* read the classic EPROMS (2732, 27128, 27256, 27512, etc).
AutoProm - same as BURN1 in terms of PROM burning/reading
Prominator - no need for chips if you're using this bad boy. Excellent product (no issues!)
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by MrBill
Absolutely do NOT rely on the backup battery for data retention. That is not a rechargeable battery...it WILL eventually go dead. Who knows how long it would take...but you rely too heavily on the data that battery is keeping "alive". Don't do it.
Absolutely do NOT rely on the backup battery for data retention. That is not a rechargeable battery...it WILL eventually go dead. Who knows how long it would take...but you rely too heavily on the data that battery is keeping "alive". Don't do it.
.It lasted from January till October, failed on a friends car while on a dyno, lol.
I was doing some soldering and didn't want to go find that small battery so I soldered up and hot glued 2 AAA batteries to the darn thing. I'm now rocking a serial version of the Ostrich
.I would have done the flash burning more except that I was always testing stuff. Another excuse
was that my power supply for the pocket programmer broke. This left me with a RadioShack 9v dc-dc converter. The problem with this setup is the temperature. Something about the AT29C256 chips and/or the pocket programmer that doesn't like freezing weather. It rarely programmed on a cold chip. I had to sit there and warm it up with my thumb to get it to program, even then it was a 50/50 shot... spring time came around and it was programming 100% verified and like twice the speed. So the Romulator was a good deal, less cables and I always had my laptop with me just in case so I wouldn't get stuck if the battery did fail. Supreme Member
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From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: 441 SBC 12.5:1 0.680" Lift
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 TruTrac Moser 9"
Those little coin cells hold a surprising number of mAh, but still NOTHING compared to the AA/AAA stuff. Remember that the batteries get drained whether or not you're using the unit.
Jon, my guess would be that the flash chips are commercial temp grade vs. industrial. Look at the part number and see if it has a "C" or "I" at the end. I try to always use industrial grade...unless I just can't get them.
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Car: 91 Red Sled
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Originally posted by MrBill
Jon, my guess would be that the flash chips are commercial temp grade vs. industrial. Look at the part number and see if it has a "C" or "I" at the end. I try to always use industrial grade...unless I just can't get them.
Jon, my guess would be that the flash chips are commercial temp grade vs. industrial. Look at the part number and see if it has a "C" or "I" at the end. I try to always use industrial grade...unless I just can't get them.
. Shame on him. Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 659
Likes: 10
From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
Help me decide!
I'm looking at getting the Ostrich and Craig's aldl to USB adapters, but I'm torn between those two and the AutoProm. I really want to scan and tune on the fly. I already have a PP and a few chips to use.
I know I can leave the Ostrich connected to the car for a while, until I get around to burning another chip for it. Can I do that with the AutoProm too or do I have to turn on my laptop to get it to work?
The way I see it I can save a few bucks since I have a burner already, but the all in one deal is so tempting. Any thoughts from those who use them?
I know I can leave the Ostrich connected to the car for a while, until I get around to burning another chip for it. Can I do that with the AutoProm too or do I have to turn on my laptop to get it to work?
The way I see it I can save a few bucks since I have a burner already, but the all in one deal is so tempting. Any thoughts from those who use them?
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
You can just leave the AutoProm hooked up....it emulates using non-volatile memory so the data will still be there when you unhook the laptop. From what I read it's not "recommended," but there are a few guys doing it and it seems to work well. I personally haven't tried it yet. It will also datalog and emulate at the same time, and you can tune real-time on it with TunerPro RT.
You can leave the Ostrich hooked up for ~74 years before you'll need to burn a chip. That's how long the battery is supposed to last. And it's cheaper.
That said, I use the AutoProm.....all-in-one means fewer cables to move when I have a passenger.
You can leave the Ostrich hooked up for ~74 years before you'll need to burn a chip. That's how long the battery is supposed to last. And it's cheaper.
That said, I use the AutoProm.....all-in-one means fewer cables to move when I have a passenger.
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From: In your ear. No, the other one.
Car: '89 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5WC
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi
Yes, the AutoProm is designed to specifically be left connected. It uses non-volatile RAM (no battery backup, its static RAM), so no issues there. I have a buddy who's been running his Typhoon off of an AutoProm for, what, like 6 months now. =)
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,441
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From: sweden
Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Burn1 and xtronics romulator.....the romulator has been in the car now for some time 1+year with no problem....
( I always carry a backup EPROM with me...)
( I always carry a backup EPROM with me...)
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
It will just be a matter of time before you'll like having a selection. While developing the *habits* necessary to be good at doing chips, I'd say a Pocket Programmer.
I say habits, because to get good at this stuff means taking notes, and looking for trends. It's way to easy for a new guy to just go screaming right by the *correct* tune, when things are too easy.
For various reasons, I use the PPII when doing developement work, then the Autoprom on the ecm bench, and Prominator for getting things the last 1% *in car*.
I say habits, because to get good at this stuff means taking notes, and looking for trends. It's way to easy for a new guy to just go screaming right by the *correct* tune, when things are too easy.
For various reasons, I use the PPII when doing developement work, then the Autoprom on the ecm bench, and Prominator for getting things the last 1% *in car*.
Senior Member
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
I just thought I'd mention this; my pocket programmer got fried because it didn't have reverse polarity protection! I melted a transistor right off the board and almost through the plastic case!
The reason I did this was because xtronics felt like using the non-standard polarity where they had the pin ground and the body positive
.
What's the protection cost, maybe $2 in parts? A couple diodes
.
The reason I did this was because xtronics felt like using the non-standard polarity where they had the pin ground and the body positive
.What's the protection cost, maybe $2 in parts? A couple diodes
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