I recently got my autoprom back from craig and being that I upgraded to USB, I bought a new laptop as well.

The trouble comes in when I try to datalog. I can't get WinALDL or TunerProRT to register any info. The autoprom will read/burn/ (emulate...as far as I can tell with no ALDL) with the horizontal switch toward the cable, but its a no go on datalogging no matter where the switch is or even if I change the tunerpro settings to passthrough.

the new laptop has 3 usb ports and the results are the same on each. However, in the device manager, the ports aren't called out as COM ports...it just says USB Root Hub, etc.

Does anybody know if I should somehow change the 'name' of the USB port to 'com3' or something like that? Or do you think I have a bum ALDL cable?

All help is appreciated.
-Mike

edit: I'm running a 1227747 ecm with a G2 adapter/ AT29C256 and USB autoprom

Update:

Well, I'm part way there.....
Last night after screwing around for a good while trying different stuff, I decided to defrag my new puter since I just loaded a bunch of stuff on it. When it got done, somehow, it got the bug out of its a** and identified the autoprom on COM 4. A couple quick changes later, I could pass thru datalog.

However, even though I can burn & read, emulation is a no-go at this point. I get the SES flicker. I just changed some stuff on the COM port settings and I'm gonna try it again at lunch time.

Note: The emulation did seem to work temporarily.....I hooked everything up, enabled emulation, loaded the bin to the AP, & fired 'er up. All was good till I tried to re-load the bin to the AP. The engine died & the SES went into give-me-a-seisure (flicker) mode.

Basically, it's been a major PITA and a bunch of $ just to get back to where I was 3 weeks ago.

WTF

Hello -

Let's get emulation working first.

1) If the AutoProm is physically hooked up to your ECM for emulation, only upload the bin with the key on. If the AutoProm is not connected to the car, no other steps are required for uploading the bin.

2) Always verify the bin after an upload (note that doing a verify will cause your car to stumble if it's running - it is recommended you shut the car down and dot he verify key on, engine off).

3) Make sure your checksum is disabled by uploading 0xAA to the appropriate byte offset (the mask ID byte). I'll leave this to you to find the information on how to do this. (I do believe the 7747 uses a different offset than the P4 ECMs).

4) With all of the above in mind, hook the AutoProm up to your computer and car, load up the bin in TunerPro, make sure the AutoProm is initialized and present to TunerPro, and upload the bin. Verify. If the verify succeeds, enable emulation and make a simple change (idle speed is a change with obvious results for testing).

Let me know how that goes and we'll go from there.

Mark

Thanks Mark.
I think part of my problem was that I was enabling emulation before I uploaded. I don't know if that'd make a difference.

Anyway, the other part of my problem is that I need to modify a new brain box (ecm) for a G2 when I get home. Perhaps mine was on the way out, or maybe I did something wrong, but when I was in the parking lot at lunch today trying to get the autoprom to work, the following happened....

I hooked everything up and still got a limp SES. Then, I changed the vertical switch position and things looked up. The SES light went solid. I started the engine and the light stayed on. I could tell it was still running in limp mode. After a bit more hooking & unhooking chips & the autoprom, the end result is that now the SES light is on all the time no matter what I put in the Zif. It doesn't even flash once when I turn the key on. I have the Ecm sitting on my desk right now, hoping that it may cool down & work when I go out to the parking lot.

long story short, the ecm took a dump and I've gotta limp it home to put my spare in. I'll update you with the results.

Is it possible that my solder job sucked and somehow chips would work, but emulation won't?

Thanks for the tips. I'm sure they will help.
-mike

Check these out also.....

http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=26



http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=24

Check the emulation ribbon cable. I had a bad connection in the connector where it cuts through the wires in the cable. They were actually touching each other because the cable was slightly crooked. Took me a while to figure it out. You can check it out with a meter. If in doubt you can cut off a 1/2" section of the cable and reassemble it.

OK

So, I soldered a new 24 pin DIP into a spare ECM I had. Then I plugged my G2 in and here's what I did:

1. Drop in Known good chip. Started engine. ran perfect.

2. shut off engine. hook up emulation cable w/ red stripe where notch would be. Did not hook up ALDL cable. Horizontal switch toward cable. Vertical switch in middle.

3. Turn on key & start tunerpro RT v4.00. Autoprom found. SES light flickering.

4. Upload bin to autoprom. SES light turned off.

5. Verify Bin. Verification failed. SES light started flickering again.

6. Close tunerproRT. Restart TunerproRT Autoprom not found.

I repeated steps 2-6 a couple of times and the same thing happened every time. I tried 2 different emulation cables. I have a 1227747 ecm with $42 mask. I tried with the checksum at 04 disabled and enabled. If I don't disable the checksum, the SES light does not stop flashing in step 4.

Those ostrich links look very interresting. Does an autoprom have jumpers in it like that too? Can it be made to verify with key-off as well? I feel like I'm making progress. I appreciate all of your help.
-Mike

Mike -

When the vertical switch is in the "down" position, pins A & B of the ALDL cable are shorted. This *should* light the SES light indefinitely (on most ECMs, this would induce a trouble code dump in the form of a flashing SES).

If your SES light remains solid when you return the vertical switch back to the center, try unplugging your battery (or, easier, simply unplug the ECM from the car) for 20 seconds, then re-apply power.

If the SES light is still lit, you may indeed have an improperly soldered G2. Go through and make sure your solder joints are both clean and not cold or insufficient solder joints.

Make sure everything works by placing your stock chip back in the G2. If your car runs happily with the stock chip, you're ready to tackle the emulation gremlins.

One other note regarding emulation: make sure you don't have a chip in the AutoProm's ZIF while you're attempting to emulate or upload data to the emulator.

M

Mark,

I tried exactly what you just said. no dice. So, I pulled out a completely different (v6) ecm and soldered in a new 24 pin dip. I also carried over my "limp home" chip from the previously FUBARed V8 ecm. All of the stuff I wrote in my last post was done with the replaced ecm and I'm sure that the connections are soldered properly.

I did pop the cover off my autoprm and saw that there are jumpers like the ostrich. I tried overhanging the emulation cable like the pictures show and changing the jumpers as shown for a 28-24 configuration. No dice. the SES light never stopped flashing when I tried the steps outlined in my last post. I put the jumpers back to the 28-28 position like they were when I got it.

The vehicle runs happilly off a known good chip.

I think I'm ready to try any emulation suggestions you've got.

Thanks,
mike

You can keep the jumpers where they were (configured for 28 pin), and plug the cable in normally.

Are you sure you have pin one of the emulation header in the correct location in the ECM's adapter?

Is a verify succeeding after an upload of your bin data?

Up and running now, right?

Yep.

It works like a champ. Craig set me up with the proper nfirmware for the unit I had and it did the trick. Took er for a ride....all is good

Thanks Craig & Mark!