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LC-1 problem and annoyance

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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 04:50 PM
  #1  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
LC-1 problem and annoyance

Has anyone else seen this kind of nonsense with the LC-1/

1. Start-up - at least 8 out of every 10 times I start my car, especially if it has set over an hour, the LC-1 errors out with either a 4, 5, or 8 error code. If you turn the car off and back on again, everything is fine. Problem is so prevalant I've installed a mini toggle switch in the power feed to the LC-1 to recycle it and save wear and tear on my starter.

2. When cruising, if I let off the gas while the clutch is out, the LC-1 digital guage willgo haywire and report very high numbers with an intermittent "o2" being displayed. By high I mean quickly scrolling numbers WAY above the normally maximum 20 AFR (all the way up to 99).

I should probably point out the start-up errors problem started BEFORE I added on their AFR display gauge.

Has anyone else seen anything like this with this WB? I've talked to Innovate, and they said the high numbers are "normal". Just trying to see if everyone agrees with that, and with the start-up errors I'm seeing.

Appreciate your time on this!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #2  
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
I dont have my book inside so im not sure what those error codes are.

Only time I have seen mine switch from 02 to CO is when I either lost the sensor or water got into the connector. (also with a loose connector/bad connection)

Might want to check it out, especially if the car has been out in wet weather.

The connectors suck on the Innovate, I've never like mine, bit I make it work. Also wrap it in plastic so it can breath yet water will not enter.

U did calibrate the sensor correct?

later
Jeremy
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #3  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Yep, calibration is fine. And it does this rain or shine.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
#2 sounds like DFCO.

RBob.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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I have had three sensors go out on my LM-1 and they all did the same thing you describe when they failed. Take the connector apart at the sensor and look for water. It makes the electronics go nucking futs. Even if you manage to get all the water out, it will still not work right. If you need a cheap source for a replacement, LMK. HTH
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Yeah, I guess I'd better have that cheap replacement source. The bad part is I just got the blasted thing a month or so ago.....
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 02:36 AM
  #7  
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
lol

Yes, they hate water. U can silicone the extra holes in the connector up.(which I know a few people have done)

Basically what I do is route the connector away from heat sources and use a plastic bag with both sides open and wrap it around the connector and have rubber bands on each side.

That way it keeps the water out but its not 100% airtite.

Long DFCO cutouts will make it go kinda nutso like Rbob said. yours does sound like it is failing moreso though(course i cant see it )

If u can find a friendly Audi or VW dealer, the sensors should be like barely over $40 cost

later
Jeremy
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #8  
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From: Dallas
Originally posted by vernw
Yeah, I guess I'd better have that cheap replacement source. The bad part is I just got the blasted thing a month or so ago.....
For a replacement LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor, go to https://www.1stvwparts.com/part_number.html and look for a front sensor for a '02-'03 VW 1.8T Beetle or search part number 021-906-262-B. Less than $40 plus $8 minimum shipping. I checked out my local VW dealer and they wanted $160. Ouch!
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 01:02 PM
  #9  
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
[i]
U can silicone the extra holes in the connector up.(which I know a few people have done)
Be sure to use O2 safe Silconii.
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 10:37 PM
  #10  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Thanks for the info, guys! I'll go the bag route first, but I doubt that will solve the problem. Probably going to have to replace the sensor even though it is only a month old. reason I say that is the start-up problem with the sensor happened since I got it, and the first rain we've had was this week, so I doubt the moisture was it's problem. And Grumpy - I thought of that one too - "sensor safe" it will be!
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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i get high A/F on deacceleration. even though i have DFCO disabled. i am of opinion that they are real #'s. maybe same occurs with carb? although carb is MAP so to speak. not sure how the VE tables deal with high vac-lowmap-low rpm. guess it looks up that VE fuel cell. maybe i would rather have deaccelleration fuel enrichment for a hot rod?

i am on second 02 sensor. seems i damaged first by leaving unit on for 3 days.



i was told to make certain unit is off when the starter engages. voltage spikes can damage the 02 sensor. periodically i too get eroneous readings but it is infrequent. not sure why it happens. going to wire it in spring with relay so unit is on with ign on yet off when starter is engaging and on again when starter is off. i think i paid $50 to replace with a VW 02 sensor. same as unit Innovate sells.

was told the moisture it encounters is not all that big a deal. the starter is the problem area.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 11:08 AM
  #12  
vernw's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
That realy stuff is good info. I may just have to do that this weekend my self....

Thanks!
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Originally posted by Ronny
i get high A/F on deacceleration. even though i have DFCO disabled. i am of opinion that they are real #'s. maybe same occurs with carb? although carb is MAP so to speak. not sure how the VE tables deal with high vac-lowmap-low rpm. guess it looks up that VE fuel cell. maybe i would rather have deaccelleration fuel enrichment for a hot rod?

If I had to put my finger on it, Id say its due to very short PWs. once you get to around 500 usecs, at least with the TBI injectors, they dont seem to deliver much fuel. A carb is flow referenced. Im not sure they go real lean/rich or not on decel. Id say probably not, but I could be wrong.
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