I have a few ancient eprom programmers, but decided to spring for this one. I rreally like it so far.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PCB5-0-Lite-Will...QQcmdZViewItem

I have $6 into a ALDL cable and another $6 for a uSB to serial converter.



I am super cheap so tonight I used christmas tree ornament hangers to save $10 on the moates memcal reader adaptor.



Got em in there easy I must say!



Looks like it belongs!



I am way too cheap to buy a parallel cable so I plugged the eprom programmer into the back of my desktop.



Here we see how I am going to erase my memcal with the UV sterilizer on my fishtank...haha, I have another germicidal lamp in a tool box I really use.



I have noticed while data logging my motor has the weirdest timing advance going on, now I see why.



This is from a bin found at moates for my motor. I think it makes much more sense.....?



I guess that is where I will start. Thanks for reading my long rambling post.

 

Looks to me like your using the wrong bin for the XDF file
or the wrong XDF file for the bin.

 

I was just thinking that.

 

That is exactly what is going on, wrong xdf file for the bin.

Another possibility is improper programmer settings causing a problem with reading the EPROM, I've done this myself.
Also that Christams tree hanger MEMCAL adaptor might not have the greatest connection, and cause an improper read.

Go to Tools>Advanced>Hex Editor and look at the 8th byte, that will give you the mask or "ECU" code.

At first I read that you became a tunder for $42, as in the mask or ECU code of $42, not the actual dollar amount of $42.

You'll appreciate the proper tools and adaptors after you buy them, like the G1, so that you don't need to wait 10 to 20 minutes to erase the EPROM, just erase and burn the new bin.

 

It was a reader issue. I should have caught that sooner. I like this:



Better, eh?




LOL, I'm an $85 mask here.

I am saving my money for an emulator.

 

I bet he drinks nothing but Old Milwaukee caus its cheap !

 

I learned that lesson once, twice, ok more than once.. Instead of going cheap the 1st time, Spend the extra money and it done right so you don't have to spend more later. LOL

 

Not a pretty setup, BUT, It works

Later

 

Looks much better now.

I know what your thinking. Ya, gas is not cheap.
I noticed the web site in the bottom left corner.

Been Working towards that one myself,

 

Evan Williams works just fine.


That is what got me into this. A bunch of guys on another forum are claiming 6 - 10 MPG increases with that hydrogen generator and a pot on the oxygen sensor. Sounded like BS to me, but if it does somehow work tuning at the computer should yield far better results I figure. At any rate, mods you guys do have a proven effect.

I am working on my spark advance as I type this...

 

That was my first thought too.

 

Damn hex mucking everything up, eh?

 

It was actually a little attempt at base16 humor. I got the USB/rs232 adaptor for free so I used it to get to $42.

Now I need to hit the junkyard and grab a handful of memcals.
----------


Wait till you see how I am going to deal with the memcal.

 

This may help.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...49-memcal.html
I believe he still has a couple boards available.

I applaud you creativeness but clunky and kludge will get more difficult with usage time. BTDT on my bench setup. I keep refining each time I really get into it or it gets the better of me.

 

Great thread, thanks. I was wondering if you could get by without the resister network.

 

You could even do without the UV sterilizer—just put your chips out in sunlight. Of course that takes a while longer. You also don’t need the cigarette lighter cord. Just run 12 volts to an empty slot on the ALDL connector (D is a good one) so you can power your circuit from it.

$19.95 for the programmer—jeez, I paid more than that for my first ZIF socket (that was many blue moons ago, though). I noticed it supports 27SF512 EEPROMS—not all programmers do. You might consider shelling out another buck forty-five and replace your EPROM with a 27SF512. It would make your life easier and you wouldn’t need a hand full of MEMCALs.

You might also consider shelling out another couple of bucks for a Radio Shack project box to put your 2-transistor setup in. You will need to trim your board a little for it fit in their smallest enclosure. A more professional looking approach would be to install the circuit in a DB25 shell. It fits nicely and there is even room for a (small) switch that can enable/disable a 10k resistor for those ECMs that require it for ALDL mode. And, there is even room for a coaxial power jack that you can plug a lighter cord into for vehicles that haven’t been wired for 12 volts. You will have to spend a little more for a DB9M to DB25F gender changer if you don’t have a 25 pin RS232 output on you computer (or are using a USB converter as you are).

Yes, you can get by without the RESNET. It is used only for limp home mode (which you don’t have to have but is certainly nice) and is used by some masks to check to see if you have inserted the wrong MEMCAL by comparing the cylinder select in the RESNET with what is programmed into the EPROM. You can simply disable code 51 to ignore the mismatch or you can modify any MEMCAL to whatever number of cylinders you want by installing one or two resistors.

The number of cylinders for backup fueling is determined by the voltage on pin 56 of the MEMCAL.

0 to 1 volt : 8 cylinder port injection
1 to 2.5 volts : 6 cylinder port injection
2.5 to 4 volts : 4 cylinder port injection
4 to 5 volts : throttle body injection (any cylinder count)

You can select 8 cylinders by jumpering (or using any resistor, of say, 10k or less (to make sure it is sufficiently less than the ECM’s input impedance) from pin 62 (GND) to pin 56. TBI selection can be made by jumpering pin 49 (VCC) to pin 56.

Four and six cylinder selection requires the use of a voltage divider network. The following values work but are not absolute—any set of values that produce the correct voltage will work as long as you consider input impedance:

For four cylinders, you can install a 3k resistor between pin 49 and pin 56 and a 5.6k resistor between pin 62 and pin 56. Reverse that for six cylinder selection, i.e., 5.6k between pin 49 and pin 56 and 3k between pin 62 and pin 56. These values place the voltages right in the middle of their ranges; other values will work.

Note that if you use the outer rows of the connectors (which haven’t been soldered), it’s easy to switch resistors at will—simply unplug and plug in the desired resistors. This is okay for development use but they should be soldered for a permanent setup.

 

It once took a week to erase a 27c256 in the Florida sun for me..



Tell me about it, my four gang ISA Sunshine burner was about $400 if I recall.



I actually do have a project box it fits in, but i was going to just build one in a DB-9 shell with a mini phono for the aldl connection. I just had that board sitting there and figured I would save a few minutes using it to breadboard the circuit.


I can not thank you enough for this. I have some very good ideas for dealing with the memcal I will be posting through out the week. Again, thank you for this most excellent post. I love this forum so much I am looking fir a third gen now!!

PS: A million thanks for the heads up on aldl line D!!

 

I use terminal D because I haven't found anything on it and has an open position on either side for better isolation, and because a cable/connector I salvaged from an old OTC scanner had a red wire in this position. Any open terminal will work, though.

As for MEMCALs, I came across plans somewhere for building a tunable knock sensor module. It might have been on the Megasquirt site. It was a very simple circuit but a link to some Canadian site for more info on tuning was dead. Researching that further is on my to do list.

 

Where can I find that $85 mask?