im running a 747 ecm on a tuned port intake ontop of a stought 383 i have done prom burning on the last 383 that was in it on a dyno this time i wanted to make things easyer with the ostrich but im using tuners cats rt and everything is communicating i can load the file into the ostrich but when i hook it to the computer the check engine light is flashing very fast do i need to change the start point on the file or what im getting very confused this is only my second time tuning thanks guys

not sure on 2.0 version but the older version has jumper pins that need to match the number of pins used in the prom socket...set to 24 pins. otherwise i would say checksum error

The '7747 requires the use of a Socket Booster.Moates sells them for this very purpose, and other ECMs that originally used the 2732 PROM.

FWIW, I didn't have much luck running a '7747 on an MPFI intake ontop of a 365 (409 style engine), swapped to a '7730 running S_AUJP and it was running well in no time.

i do have a socket booster and its set to 24 pin on the switch as for the emulator i took it apart there is no jumpers in it any more but it does have two switches on one side and the board has numbers on the sides but not 24.

When using the Ostrich, set the Socket Booster to 28.

The Ostrich has two switches, as you have noted, one is 24/28, the other is 28/32. The numbers are on the exterior label. Set it to have both switches at 28. I was just tuning my boss' '7747 last week with those settings.

If that doesn't work, go over the solder joints holding the DIP socket or Socket Booster to the daughter board, depending on how you modified the '7747.

my emulator does not have the switches labeled could you tell me which direction they should be in compared to the ribbon harness? also do you have to change a start bit with an emulator like you do going from stock chip to an eeprom?

Look closely on the label near the switches, I missed the labeling for a while after getting my first Ostrich 2.0 as well.

six shooter your my hero! lol i see that now and i got the emulator to work im having to put pressure on the connector though but its working kinda i found it still wont start though even with the original tune. more messing i guess

ok i finally got the emulater to work with the computer its a bad connection somewere in the stack up of chips what is a common place to have this issue? i first thought of the socket i soldered in so i took the computer back apart and checked everything is soldered dam good in there now so is there any tricks with the socket booster and emulater plug to improve the connection?

I know this is old, but can you expand on this? I was having some connectivity issues first thing in the morning. The truck was running poorly, and having the emulator act like a corrupted chip. I unplugged the socket booster, and emulator cable from both ends, checked them visually and plugged everything back in.

That's when I noticed the "emulator must be set at 28" note printed on the chip, I had it on 24. Switched to 28 just to see and everything ran normally again and data connect was MUCH faster than usual.

Moates says without a 28 pin socket to leave it set at 24. I'm running a 24 pin with the socket booster leaving 4 pins hanging off the side. Why does 28 work?

isn't the g2 28 pin ? An you just set your offset ?

Sounds like the offsets change when you inserted 24.
28 would be just like installing a sst27sf512 on a g2.

I'm not using a G2, just a D1 24 pin DIP socket with the socket booster plugged in. The 4 pins left hanging are on the switch side.