Hows it going guys. I was helping clean out the supply closet at the computer repair shop that I work at. I ran across a circuitboard and it had a zif socket on there. Right away I suspected that it may be a Willem. So after investigating online, I found out that it is a Willem programmer. Does anyone have this exact same one as mine? I need the software and drivers for it. I looked around MCUMALL's download webpage but I cant find the one I need. Thanks.
willem.jpg?t=1350535468

 

Try this one.

 

Thanks man. It worked. Unfortunately, it doesn't work entirely correct. I read that the reason why the board doesn't word is due to the USB connection. Supposedly it'll only work by means of a parallel port and cable. Has anyone been able to work one of these Willem Programmers with a USB cord?


OR will this usb to DB25 work?

 

I read about these programmers when I was looking for one to program the chip for my ZZ4 carb engine and even bought one, but I returned it since it was too slow for my taste.

These Willem programmers only work with a Parallel Port on a computer. You need a DB-25 parallel cable. The USB port is only used for power and depending on the chip being programmed, you may not even need to connect it. It would only be used if chip programming fails due to not having enough power. You need a computer with Windows XP or an older version like Windows 98, since it is not supported under Vista or Windows 7. USB to Parallel converter cables will NOT work since they only support enough parallel commands to control a printer and nothing else. You need a real parallel port like those found on older computers.

There are Willem programmers that dont need a parallel port and work with just a USB cable, but those are sold as "True USB" Willem programmers.

 

Perfect. Thanks for the valuable information man.

 

some of the Willem programmers require you to use a dc power plug to erase chips. Also, a jumper needs to be moved first.

 

I got it to work. But I don't have any SST flash chips to play with. I have emailed the company who makes the boards but they never replied. So the company is not going to be of any use to me. I asked them for a user manual and I never got a reply.

 

Have you tried the downloads section on mcumall.com?

 

Yup. I found a driver set that works. But the flash chip that I got has taken a dump, way before I even got the wellim. But soon I'll buy a $5+ shipping chip. I really don't have much drive to do programming anymore because I'm now using a Hypertech ThermoMaster. Yup. I said it. A Hypertech. I like it. I have no complaints.

 

http://download.zeitech.de/Documents...mer_Manual.pdf
I hope this helps a little.

 

your usb doesn't work on the board. You know you have to use the parallel port cable along with either usb or a wall adapter. You can use a wall adapter just move the jumper on the board from usb to 12v.

 

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ecm...rogrammer.html

that link should help you. Look at the pics

 

Ninetyone, thanks a ton man. Willem company left me out to dry. They never replied to my 3 emails. Again, thanks man.

 

If you don't already know, the SST27c512 chips require an offset of 8000 too.

 

Also, I have come to find that you need to becareful with re-burning the SST chips. I have some of them just decide to go bad after the 2nd or 3rd erase. I would try to get them right the first time.

 

Ok. How do I set the offset of 8000? And thanks for the limited burning of the SST chips.

 

in the box on the bottom right in the picture. It says offset hex. Just type in 8000

 

Roger that ninetyone. Thanks again.

 

Also, remember even though the blank chips you are using are brand new ,they still require to be erased first.

 

look at this attachment for proper erase procedure

 

 

I wrote a little guide to using one of these with the SST 27512 chips https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...n-27sf512.html

Some things I've learned after burning a bunch of chips is it helps to erase the chip twice before burning otherwise it'll fail to verify sometimes.

Also for the erase jumper I took an old computer ribbon cable that had a connector on one end and cut it down to just two wires then soldered a little toggle switch on to the end. Saves you from having to fiddle around with the little jumper they give you.