spitfire350

I want to put a kill switch in my 87 camaro 350 t-5. where is the best place to wire it in? and what amp switch should i use? also where is a hole in the fire wall to run wire for a tach? Any help would be great!

thanx

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keep the stang's far behind u and the cops even farther

theformula

Im in the middle of installing two digital gauges and I'm running the wires from the engine....to under the sheet metal (located beneath your wipers above firewall). The wires will exit around your A pillars (or by your door). Then just route them as according.

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'92 Formula
305 TPI
Mods: SLP catback,SLP air foil,ported plenum,Crane AFPR (49psi),MSD6AL,homemade cold air,K&Ns,3:73s,JET fan switch...SLP 1 5/8ths are coming...oh yes

[This message has been edited by theformula (edited October 19, 2000).]

Tim Burgess

A good place for a kill switch is between the fuel pump relay & oil pressure switch, and the fuel pump. There is a tan / white wire from the fuel pump relay & oil pressure switch that feeds the fuel pump. Connect the switch such that the relay & oil pressure switch wires are on one side, and the fuel pump wire is on the other side. A 10 ampere switch should be adequate. There are two holes in the fire wall, on the drivers side that are easy to access. One near the steering column hole & another higher & more toward the fender - it has a rubber plug in it.

Tim

RSpeed

My brother's cruise control went out on his car. Since he never went on any long trips and ever used it, I disconnected the whole system and wired in a relay to his starter wires to the cruise control wires that went to the on/off switch. So in order to start the car, the cruise switch had to be on. How many car thieves will think to turn the cruise on to start the car?

TwicK91

Cool so now if I ever steal a car I know to turn the cruise control on

Tim Burgess

The cruiuse control power switch is a great idea! Even if the cruise control still works & is used, you could wire the power from the cruise switch to a relay & use it as a kill switch, as well. If that was the case, the multifunction lever would now have five functions, instead of four.......

Tim

qaz

If you put the kill switch in the switched 12V line to the ECM (not the memory backup line), the engine won't even start due to the inability of the ECM to actuate the fuel injectors, wheras if you put it in the fuel pump the residual pressure will probably be enough to allow the engine to start (though obviously it won't run for long)

For carbed cars it would probably work to put it on the 12V line to the HEI module.

Stell1579

i have a switch that grabbed a line thats under the dash, it controlls the starter its a 12 guage cable and i have a 30 amp switch on it. it doesnot allow the engine to crank. although for some reason, the rear hatch wont pop by the switch if the kill is in th eoff position. as for firewall, i drilled a hole just under the relays and put a rubber groumet in to get rid of the rough edges

-Stell

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1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans , K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch
And Always Trying To Go Faster

Tim Burgess

The hatch will not release with the switch in the off position because the hatch release relay is grounded through the PRNDD21 switch and the starter solenoid. This is done so that the hatch may only be released when the PRNDD21 switch is in the P or N position. If you put the kill switch in line between the ignition switch and the PRNDD21 switch (yellow wire, or dark green wire with VATS), instead of between the PRNDD21 switch and the starter solenoid (purple wire), the hatch will work with the kill switch in the off position.

Tim

Tim Burgess

One more note - when you cut the yellow or dark green wire, make sure the hatch release relay is connected to the PRNDD21 switch side of the kill switch & not the ignition switch side of the kill switch, or the hatch release relay will not work with the kill switch in the off position. If you have a manual transmission, substitute "clutch switch" for "PRNDD21" switch in the notes above.

Tim

scauffiel

That's probably why I would put it there though. I'd rather have some moron trying to steal my car get it a little bit out into traffic and then have it die. He doesn't have much time at that point to vandalize the interior. Later on, I'll get a call from the police asking me to come get my car... I just figured if a turd who is stealing my car can't get it started at all he'd just trash the interior the best he can then leave. This way his @ss is hanging out in the breeze for all to see...

Steve

chevystud

I have put a kill switch on my car. I don't konw what it goes to, but i think it has something to do with the electronic fuel pump. Look around your battery and you will see a fuse. Start your car and then pull the fuse out. What happens? It will die(the car not the fuse :-) JJ). Wire it in there. Run it inside somewhere and hide it real good. The theif can never start your car unless he knows where the switch is.

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91RS, 305, 5-speed, black with pearl white racing stripes. Not that it matters, but K&N airfilter and flowmaster exhaust

Get Blown ?

I have yet to put a kill switch on my car, but I've made a collection of posts from others. Check it out

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Starter Kill Switch #1:

You have to use the wire that signals the starter solenoid, cut it and wire it thru the lighter,Disconnet hot wire to lighter, then you must have the lighter in to complete the circuit so that the starter will engage, after that that wire isnt used so it doesnt matter what position the lighter is in.

Good Luck

ANY alarm shop could do this for you also.

Coil Kill Switch #2:

Off the coil wires in the harness I found to be the easiest. If you use a
double throw switch and take both leads, it will slow them down. Most
theifs never think about shorting the coil anymore, they usually just bust
up your steering column and go straight for the ignition switch. If they do
think about the coil, they only take the + (battery) side to bypass the
ignition. Taking both also disables the ground and that is seldom thought
of.

Neutral Safety Kill Switch #3:

there is a thick purple wire that goes to the starter. (not the power line fore it its like a relay I think. it goes under the dash i cut and spliced that. therefore when you turn the key forward it won't crank.

That purple wire goes through the neutral safety switch then to the ignition so the car will only start in park or neutral. Under the dash or in the console, put a switch on the purple wire. If you can't find the wire under the dash, follow it from the console. The hatch won't work with the switch off because the hatch button gets it's power through the neutral safety switch just like the ignition. They did this so the hatch won't open going down the road with the car in drive(or any other gear besides neutral and park).

ECM Kill Switch #4:

Do what I did. Splice it into your ECM power line. Just follow the wire upstream from the fuse panel, splice, and presto, you have a car that will crank, but wont start! (Makes em think its a busted car!)

Hidden Kill Switch location:

You know that hole where you had to wind up the factory clock? Well look at the front of your center consoles lid. You could use a push button switch and install it there. Most people wouldn't even think it's aftermarket.

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1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 "The Hose Queen" 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
http://350.StreetRacing.org
ICQ: 61342629 AOL IM: BlackSunshineZ28

Tim Burgess

The 20 ampere fuse near the battery powers the ECM and the fuel pump relay (and the MAS relay & burnoff relay, if equipped). There would never be enough residual fuel pressure, even on a hot day, to run the engine for any amount of time, if the fuel pump is disabled properly. It is possible, if only the fuel pump relay wire to the ECM is disabled, that the oil pressure switch will power the fuel pump relay, causing the engine to start and continue to run, if the engine is cranked enough to bring the oil pressure up above 4 psig - this will close the fuel pump relay switch, powering the fuel pump independant of the ECM.

Tim

TomP

You can also replace the ECM IGN fuse with a blown one! Of course, that's not a switch, but it'll help in a pinch. Actually I guess you can remove the fuse altogether, and scrape off the ECM IGN white lettering with a blade.

Remember that your ECM forgets what it learned about the engine, codes are gone, etc...


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