I'm trying to remove the **** and shaft from the headlight switch and currently failing.

help.

James

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1985 Z-28 305 TPI
165 ECM,STB,SFC,GW "wonderbar"

 

I think that this is one of those things that if you've never done it before, it'll be sort of hard, and difficult to explain.

On my '91, I first remove the lower knee bolster (as GM calls it!). Now you'll be ready to remove the ****/shaft.

There should be a little "button" (about 3/16" indiameter) on the lower part of the switch. There will be a small spring holding it out. You'll have to depress this little button from below (it helps if you have small arms/hands like I do ). With this button depressed, pull the switch ****/shaft out.

Don't pull so hard that you'll break it. Sometimes I have to "fiddle" with this little button until I can pull it out. If you do it right, the **** will come out smoothly.

FYI, after I remove this ****, I quickly remove the cluster trim plate (the black piece holding the cigarette lighter) so that I can put this **** back in. Otherwise the lights would be on (presuming you don't disconnect the battery).

 

is the spring thing right below the pull shaft. or is it somewhere else?

because i have to do this soon and i dont wanna break anything!

and how did you find out what GM specifies?

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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey "Custom" Interior
NOT STOCK, NO WHERE CLOSE!
NEW RED PAINT and WELD PROSTARS.

DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE. leaving for army.

 

It's under the switch itself. I can see the button w/ a spring but I cannot get a decent grip on it to push it up and remove the shaft, even by using a screwdriver to push it up. If you remove the 4 torx screws holding the plastic cover on the left side of the guage panel you can see what I'm talking about.

James

[This message has been edited by james_fearn (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

Don't use a screwdriver! Or at least wrap it with electrical tape; you can short something. You gotta have some long fingers...

The actual "correct" way to do it is to remove the gauge cluster. Once you do that, you can see the "access hole" and simply hit the button and pull out the switch. The only thing is for most people, removing the gauge cluster is a hassle they didn't intend on experiencing.

 

If you're referring to the "knee bolster" I posted above, then that is what was printed in the GM service manual for my 1991 Camaro - the best $100 I spent (for the manual) for my car without question.

I don't understand that because, at least on my 1991 Camaro, I cannot remove the gauge cluster without first removing the cluster trim plate (this is the plastic cover that the light ****/shaft goes through and holds the cigarette lighter). EDIT:Now that I think about it, I think that I can remove the trim plate enough to access that little button to get at it from the side. And if you can't do it with your finger, try using the flat of a screwdriver (I personally don't see any danger of shorting any electrical connection - but if you're not comfortable, disconnect the battery). Since the trim plate will now be held by only the light ****/shaft (it "snaps" in place), if I remember correctly, I think that it can be pulled out enough to gain access to the light switch button from the right side instead of below. Actually, now that I think about it, I think I've done it this way too - both are equally easy for me. Although I think that the gauge cluster itself cannot be removed without first completely removing this trim plate (presuming we're talking about the same car...) END EDIT

The GM service manual also states that the trim plate must be removed first (and that includes the light ****/shaft) before removing the gauge cluster.

Anyway, I've found the technique for pushing that release button so it's not a problem for me. I can just barely do it by using the tip of my finger to push it up (did I tell you I have very small hands?... ). You could also use a wood dowel or maybe a short piece of rubber hose (1/4" or 3/8" or so) attached to the end of a screwdriver to get you the reach and grip. Then there's always the skinny kid nextdoor...

It doesn't take any force at all to depress that button, but it does wiggle (like a loose tooth!), so if it's not pushed in just right, the **** will not slide out. That's why I said that I sometimes have to "fiddle" with it. Just dont' force it. When the button is correctly depressed, you'll know - the ****/shaft will slide out easily.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 18, 2001).]

 

I was referring to the older style dashes found in his 85. You have a 91..? :wink:

And the stuff about wrapping the screwdriver was just from personal experience. I've sparked some stuff doing that exact procedure once, and disconnecting the battery is a major hassle for me because it sets off the alarm.

Personally, I can just barely reach it with my skinny-asz middle finger through the front..

 

I just took out my gauge cluster, much easier that way. But you want to pull the **** out until the lights come on, then press the button on the underside of the switch and pull the ****, you may have to fiddle with the button to get it to work, but it isn't too hard.

 

On my 89, I have to remove the entire gauge cluster to access that release button.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System