Hey guys I am looking for help on this problem. I have a 1989 Camaro however all computer controlls are removed. Now a Holly fed 350 with HEI. Here is the problem,,,,

I just completed a cam swap and was getting it started to get the timing set........Well to find out I was off on thiming so when I got it set correctly I went back and hit the key and NOTHING>.............I got POWER to everything (radio...in tank fuel pump......blower motor....) I hit the key and nothing. The battery is full and I have checked every fuse link on the starter.........I touched the starter + to the silinoid and the starter will kick over manually????????????


HELP

Brian

 

Park neutral switch.

 

Starter relay possibly

 

Where is the starter relay????? I do not have a neutral safety switch since I changet to a B&M



Thanks
Brian

 

I hate to be the guy that makes the suggestion then can't help you out but I am away at school right now and for the life of me can't remember where the starter relay is. Sorry my shop manual is at home.

 

I called the parts store and they said they do not list a relay? Do I have one in a car that use to be a 305 TBI?


Brian

 

Hi
According to the Haynes manual. the only relay is the solenoid which is mounted on the starter motor. That makes sense, because that's where the heavy supply comes from the battery.

If you took out the regular shift lever you must have had to fix a bypass around the old switch. If you didn't then that needs to be checked otherwise you wont get a start.

You should on that system have power to the ignition switch at all times. When you switch to run you should get the accessories on, which you do, so that sounds like power is getting to the switch.

The way your system is set up, the starter should get the signal to start power to the solenoid directly from the ignition switch. Which is really dangerous if you start in drive. Are you sure you can't fix a shifter switch in there.

If you put 12 volts to the correct solenoid termnal the solenoid should get the starter to run. If it doesn't run, you may have the wrong terminal or a faulty solenoid.

Latr models show a crank fuse from the ECM, but I don't think yours has that.

 

Well see thats the problem it has started for a few years since I have taken the factory shifter out could it just suddenly pop up? Could the ignition switch be bad?



Brian

 

That's my fault I read your first post wrong. Sorry

 

NO NO please don't be I need all the help I can get...There is one thing I hate about cars and that is electric problems... I truly appreciate all suggestions.



Brian

 

When you removed the factory shifter something had to take the place of the park/neutral switch, be it B&M's switch or a jumper plug of some kind. I would start there.

 

why would the park neutral switch all the sudden start working? I have had it that way for a few years. This happened all the sudden Monday.




Brian

 

Why does any part on a car all of a sudden stop working? They just do.

 

MORLEY........I am learning every day I work on this dang car how right you are.......Rub that 8 ball and get me some help!!!! I did talk to a good friend and he has given me some good ideas.



Brian

 

If the old shifter switch is still in the circuit. that would be easy to check if it is the problem. Twiddle with it.

The only thing originally holding the switch in any position would have been the detent on the shifter lever. By definition it does not hold itself in place, or it could stick and override the safety it provides.

With it disconnected it can move with the vibration and movement of the car.

The question would be how you could be lucky enough for it to stay in the park position so long.

I don't bet money, just ideas. My bet it was held in place with insulation tape, and the tape has got old and come undone.

 

Now you are talking my language....



Thanks
Brian

 

My P/N switch over heated somehow and one of the contacts actually melted the housing where it was mounted and the contact slipped out of alignment, causing the car to not crank. It was acting like it was in gear when you moved the key to the start position.

 

I found it!!! There was a dead short in the wire, so I made a jumper from the starter relay ot the solenoid so I never have to worry about the safety switch or the Vats module.



Thanks to all
Brian

 

Where was the solenoid located??

 

The solenoid is on top of the starter.



Brian

 

Ok Thanks. I wondered if there was another one on the firewall or something. The manuals are pretty vague on some of these things.

 

Well you have to figure that not a one of my manuals say anything about a starter relay. I just don't see how they can leave that out.



Brian

 

They probably consider it a part of the starter since it mounts directly to it.

 

No you are wrong its inside the kickpanel by the drivers footrest.




Brian

 

I just had another look at the manual. It seems what adds to the vagueness, is after 1990 the anti theft device was added, and that has a start enable relay - like the wiring was not already complicated enough.

The start enable relay acts almost like regular starter relay except it activates when the key is inserted, and not when it is turned. And it doesn't send the power, it just allows the circuit to send power.

The relay / solenoid on some starter motors pushes the starter rotor forwards before activating the starter rotate power. Because it applies force from an electrical signal, it gets called a solenoid, instead of a relay, but it is also a relay allowing the heavy amps to turn the starter over.

Those types of solenoids use a lot of power to move the internal mechanisms, so they usually do need a relay to avoid burning out the ignition switch. And some designers put them in anyway.

 

Then we're not talking about the same part.

 

No you are talking about the starter solenoid. I am talking about the starter relay.



Brian