I am installing a Flaming River battery cut off switch. The connectors that I have are for 0 guage wire and are designed to be soldered. I have done alot of soldering in the the past on smaller guage wire, but not on any this big. So my question is: what type of solder is correct for this application? and what is the proper method by which to solder the wire to the connector?
I have enclosed a picture so that anyone can see the connector that I am referring to.

 

Rosin core solder. You should crimp the connection first and then solder it. you should get the proper crimper for that gauge wire, regular wire crimpers wont work. Get some heat shrink tubing and put that on the wire before you put the connectors on and crimp and solder them, then cover the connection with the heatshrink tubing and use a heat gun or a lighter to shrink it. This will make the connection look neater and offer some protection.

 

what exactly does this thing do? Why would you want to cut the power from the battery?

 

so you can take the removable batt link with you and no one can steal your car, of course you also re-set your ECU and loose all radio pre-sets by doing this, so you hafta weigh the options.

 

Don't solder it. Crimp it. Solder is brittle and will move the strain on the cable as too increase leverage on the lug, not good in the automotive/marine use do to vibration.
A solder connection on stranded will carry less current (less surface area/ skin effect). Use heat shrink with a adheasive inner wall.

You can use a parallel fusable link to keep componets hot all the time, like clocks, radio's...

If your were to solder something that large use a inductive soldering iron, it will keep wicking down to a min..

EE

 

QUOTE]what exactly does this thing do? Why would you want to cut the power from the battery?[/QUOTE] I am installing this in the car because the battery has been relocated to the "trunk". IHRA rules require that if the battery has been moved to the trunk you must install an external cut off switch that will kill all the electricity.[

 

TRUE. however this is easily corrected by putting a clamp on the cable after the connection.... i usually use these lil plastic ones you can get from home depot or lowes.. they're like $1 for 25... turns out they're the same things sold by race shops for $7 a pack


FALSE FALSE FLASE! i donno how this myth got started, but its pretty stupid IMO... current travels thru the metal, not on its "skin". look at household wiring.. all solid metal.. everything would be solid wire if it wasnt for the fact that alot of the time, wires have to flex.


i dont think thats NHRA legal... it has to disconnect ALL power.




ive done wire that size a few times before.... use regular rosin core solder NOT ACID CORE.... just get the thicker solder.. thin solder would work, but you use more of it and have to push it in faster...

i used a high power soldering gun last time i did it.. the wire was for a high power stereo install, but the idea is the same.

and i like the idea of crimping it (so theres a mechanical connection), then soldering it (so theres a great electrical connection) then heat shrinking it(to keep out the elements).

 

I know this is not the correct place to ask, but how do you include quotes from other members in replies to posts? I did a search but could not find the information.

 

liek what i jsut did here?


below every persons post, is a "quote" button.... click the button and the reply page comes up with them already quoted.

 

Thanks, I think I have got it now.