I'm fed up. I've spent more time trying to get my car to work than I have studying for class. My car won't start. I've posted this topic a few times, but it still will not start. The car cranks, the car gets fuel, and the plugs are sparking. The problem? The car won't turn over. It will occasionally fire, but never consistently detonates. I took a plug out and the spark its getting is a dull red/orange color, and doesn't look very big. I'm not sure if that's the problem or not. If you guys don't know what's wrong with it, how do I know a mechanic will be able to fix it?

Before you suggest replacing everything, please note that I've replaced and/or tested:
wires: MSD Heli-Core, Universal set. 2 weeks old. I crimped these with a C-clamp, and re-crimped them to double check after the car wouldn't start. resistance checks out fine.
cap/rotor: Accel, 2 weeks old, no carbon tracking
ignition module: Mallory (OEM style); week old, same results as the stock module gave
plugs: Autolite 604s, gapped at 045 out of the box; three weeks old, fouled but cleaned w/toothbrush twice, have same results with other plugs with smaller gap (however have not re-gapped these plugs to smaller- will try it later)
coil: MSD Blaster (external OEM Style); my old one (year old) is the same coil, I replaced it with the identical one (week old) with the same results. I tested both coils as per Chilton's instructions, and come out fine.
battery: DieHard Silver, new as of yesterday, 12.64V at terminals, and about that from positive-to-chassis
relocated ground wires: to ensure a good contact surface
valve lash: I reset lash a few times with both methods (Chilton's and Haynes). Valves indeed open without coil binding, as I have tried to start the car with the covers off.
pushrods: they are straight as an arrow, not bent or anything.
timing: the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder on the #1's compression stroke (both valves closed) with the piston at TDC (as per balancer). The timing light DOES go off consistently after the battery was replaced (12.3v on that battery) which it didn't before.
fuses: all of them check out fine, including the ones under the hood. I checked all of the fusable links I could find, and they're okay.
ECM/PROM: although the computer does not control the engine under 400rpm, I've tried both the stock prom and the one from TBIChips.com.

The problem all started after my project (in the sig). With the exception of a bad EGR, my L03 was running flawless before I started the mods. The car ran at one point with the new mods, but poorly. It would bog and stall when I put it in gear or gave it too much gas, but it idled fine in the driveway. The timing was probably the culprit, but I don't know how good the spark was then. I'm guessing it probably has something to do with my problem. There are no SES codes aside from 12, due to the EST is disconnected. Yes, I've tried starting it with the connector on as well.

I bought a new multi-meter and I have no clue what to test aside from the obvious. I'm getting good voltage from + to chassis. I've got little resistance from the heads/intake/accessories to the chassis and battery (~10milliOhm). I don't know if the spark is bad, or if it's just not sparking when it should. I have not checked if the distributor is grounded or not, but I will as soon as I go outside to test other things.

I put the stock TBI on the other day and noticed it was dumping tons of fuel into the intake. I had to take the plugs out and dry them off with a lighter (to burn the fuel out). I put the TPS on the Holley so it wouldn't flood the engine. Now it just mists the fuel (like it should) into the intake instead of pours it in. I think the stock TBI's TPS may be dead or something now. The weatherpack connector only goes in one-way... Anyway, that's probably not the reason the car won't start, because the plugs are still getting a bit wet.

Carb is definitely not an option for me. I've already spent too much money on trying to make this car run with EFI; custom PROM, Holley 670cfm, TBI-to-carb adapter, Vortec throttle linkage, etc. To give up now would be a huge waste. I can't afford a $300 carbeurator plus tuning supplies, and a $100 vacuum-advance distributor, and then a carb fuel pump and/or AFPR. Then you can't forget the extra things I'd still need, such as fuel lines and throttle linkage brackets and miscellaneous fabrications. Then it doesn't stop there, because I'd only be getting half the gas mileage I'd have with TBI, not to mention I'd constantly have to fiddle with it to make it work. Carb is definitely nothing I want to consider.

Tomorrow (or tonight if I can't sleep) I will check things with my multi-meter including the coil voltage and distributor ground/resistance. If that's not the problem... the car is being towed to a shop, where I will pay a million dollars to get it fixed.

:lala:


Thank you for reading.

 

A dull red spark is bad, should be white/blue. Check the pick-up coil inside the distributor and check the reluctor wheel, make sure it doesn't turn on the shaft.

 

How is your cam timing in relation to the crank (i.e. via the timing chain).
This is just a far out guess but, my bud did this on his truc I pus a TPI on. He replaced the chain but, didn't use the right keyway on the crank sprocket retaring the cam timing.. the engine would attempt to start.. sputter & putt (and flood) but nohing beyond that.
Even if the dist is timed right to the cam.. it's not right overall.

Aside for that left field 'could be' I just said... will the car run if you throttle it ?
Also.. be careful of constantly cranking it w/o it starting... eventually you'll wash the cylinders with gas and it will leak past the rings into the oil potentially causing even more problems.

 

I've heard that I should put some oil in the cylinders. I'll do this to prevent the wash. Anyway, I am going to check the cam timing in relation to the crank, just in case I seriously fxcked that up. When the car ran, it would get up to about 6000 rpm when I floored it in PARK. Lots of black smoke. But when I took it on the road, it would bog and stall if I gave it that much gas.

 

i think i have solved your problem, because i think i have had the exact same one. the conditions you described regarding timing were that the cylinder was at the top of its throw, both valves were closed and the rotor was pointed to the number one plug on the distributor. these conditions occur at both top dead center and bottom dead center. if you ever took the ditributor out, i bet you jut put it in backwards. take it out, turn it 180* and stick it back in. remember, the crank rotates twice for every time the #1 cylinder fires. you just have the spark on the wrong turn.

 

I'm thinking that your next drastic step should be to replace the used plugs with clean, fresh, non-potentially fuel soaked insulator spark plugs.

And remember that Autolite spark plugs are offered to you by the same fine folks that market Fram filters. Expect the same levels of quality in their spark plugs.

Plain AC or Champion copper-cored plugs at 0.035" would be a good start.

 

Have you done a compression check to verify the valves are all working properly and no ring problems?

 

Yeah, like SaintedCorrupt said, 2 rotations, 1 spark, but alot of times if it is 180* out of time it will backfire through intake(carb,T.B.,etc.).
Also would definately get a brand new set of AC plugs as Vader has mentioned. Usually a toothbrush and lighter won't clean a badly fouled plug good enough, maybe a torch and wire wheel, or bead blast them works well for a few times.
Good luck!!!:shrug: