when attempting to start my car it will no crank. no engine motion what so ever. all guages and lights work. brand new battery brand new starter. the alternator is also new. about a week ago it was the same problem but every once in a while it would start but wasnt consistent. now it wont start at all. i ran a wire to the positive terminal on the battery and to the starter and hot wired it that way and the engine turns but if i try using the key it will not crank. i also checked the clutch safety switch and thats also good. any help would br appreciated considering this is my daily driver and cant get to work.

 

Do you have the key with a pellet in it? If you do, is the security light staying on?

 

yes i do have the security pellet. the light stays on for a couple seconds then goes off.

 

I asked the question about the key to see if it might be VATS related, it does not appear to be that. You could have a bad ignition switch or a bad starter enable relay. The starter enable relay is located under the left kick panel and will have two yellow and two green wires going into it. Are you showing any trouble codes?

 

nope no codes.. ill check the relay in the morning

 

I had a smiliar problem when i was borrowing my friends rs....i would go to start it and nothing...dead as a doornail....everything else came on and there was no serurity light...i came back 20 minutes later and it started up fine. if the vats system has been set off it will disable the fuel pump...the accys will come on but when u turn the key...Nothing..u may want to try to get a new key or bypass ur VATS system ...hope this helps

 

i tried using my other keys already. is there anything else there could be? how can i go about bypassing the vats system?

 

As I mentioned earlier, this does not appear to be vats related. Your security light comes on when you turn the key and goes out after two seconds like it is supposed to do. I would start looking at the starter enable relay or ignition switch.

 

Have you checked the clutch switch? This can go bad causing the starter to not work.

 

i replaced the relay and it wasent that. and i already checked the clutch switch many times.

 

Ignition switch out of adjustment, the switch can't reach the "crank" position.

 

check the engine grounds, is there voltage at the starter when the key is turned?

put a multimeter with an aligator clip on the solenoid, the main terminal is energized all the time. set it so you can see it from the driver's seat. If you have 12 volts there...then you are wasting your time with relays and stuff, just replace the starter...if not, go back to the only thing(s) between the start voltage and the starter.

You can rule out the switch too, it is under the column.

 

You're contradicting yourself here junkyarddog. The ignition switch is what completes the circuit to allow voltage to the starter for it to start.

 

WTF does it matter where the switch is? If it is out of adjustment you can't start your car, everything will work in the "run" position but it can't travel far enough to hit "crank".

 

Hello 87PontiacBeast,

I've been following and replying to this post for a few days. I just happened to come across another post that you made in the electronics forum concerning a mystery button by the hood release.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=233832

I was just wondering if that might have any relevance to your current problem. Just a thought.

 

i agree with him with one exception, you need to check the voltage and work backwards if you dont get the voltage. if you do it could be the starter but it could also be oxidation on the terminals at the starter or battery, make sure those are good and clean and tight. usualy things that make the car not start all of the sudden are simple.

 

trickster-- i already checked the button by the hood release many times


its not the starter or the battery both were replaced last week. terminals too

 

i just realized something... the led light for the alarm next to the defroster and trunk release buttons blinks slow when i press lock and blinks fast when i unlock. could that be an ignition cut out or something? if it is how do i disable it?

 

anyone?

 

You'd need to know the make and model of alarm to figure out if it had a starter disable and how to bypass it.

 

well i took it to a mechanic and it turns out it was the VATS the whole time. is there a way of bypassing it so i dont have to buy a whole new ignition? he said i blew it because i have an amp in my car. could this be true?

 

The only thing in the VATS circuit that could have fried is the VATS control module and I don't see how having an AMP in the car would do that. Does he mean the VATS is fried or the alarm system in your car is fried?

 

he said the VATS is fried. and to replace it i would have to get a whole new ignition, new keys made, and get a chip for inside where the key goes.. theres gotta be a way to just bypass all the VATS stuff isnt there?

 

Hello 87PontiacBeast,

I am not doubting what your mechanic has told you or what you're saying. Is this a mechanic at a dealership or a local shop and did he quote you a price. I'm just curious here about this. Do you mind if I e-mail you a schematic and other info on the VATS system I have from the GM service manual.

 

its a mechanic at a shop not a dealership. he said parts and labor comes to $600. thats for the whole ignition system including new keys. yea email me the schematic my email adress is bmxboy572@aol.com thanks for all your help.