Drivers Power Lock not locking fully
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Pacific NW
Car: 85 Z28 - IROC
Engine: 5.7L 350
Transmission: Auto for now...
Drivers Power Lock not locking fully
Hi everyone,
On my 85 Z, when I push the power locks button to "LOCK", the passenger door locks fully but the Drivers Side only 3/4 so I need to use the key to lock it securely. "UNLOCK" works good for both doors.
Any advice on fixing this problem?
Thanks
On my 85 Z, when I push the power locks button to "LOCK", the passenger door locks fully but the Drivers Side only 3/4 so I need to use the key to lock it securely. "UNLOCK" works good for both doors.
Any advice on fixing this problem?
Thanks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
From: Hampden Maine
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: Stealth Rammed 412 with TC78 Turbo
Transmission: '93 T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt posi with PBR discs
My '85 Firebird S/E is the exact same way, won't lock all the way on the driver's side, but unlocks just fine. Passenger side works perfectly. I've done some reading on the forums and from what I've gathered it seems that it's simply a matter of the locking mechanism in the door needing to be lubricated. I haven't personally checked into it yet, but maybe some others will chime in and give some further advice, I'd be curious to know exactly what parts need to be cleaned/lubricated.
-Paul
-Paul
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Pacific NW
Car: 85 Z28 - IROC
Engine: 5.7L 350
Transmission: Auto for now...
Thanks, so looks like it might be a chronic problem with our cars.
I'll wait for some more info before I take the door panel off.
I'll post up if I end up solving this issue on my own.
I'll wait for some more info before I take the door panel off.
I'll post up if I end up solving this issue on my own.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: pittsburgh, PA
Car: 84 Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 305 4bbl HO
Transmission: 700-R4, 3.73 rear
my 84 TA does the SAME thing on the drivers side. but as i get out of the car i lock it by hand, so it doesn't really bother me.
but it is very odd that it's on the driver's door and on so many cars.
but it is very odd that it's on the driver's door and on so many cars. Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,301
Likes: 13
From: Chicagoland
Car: 1983 Daytona Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
My LU5 '83 does the exact same thing lol (my LG4 doesn't have power options)
A friend with a '90 RS has the exact same problem too...
Both of my '82 T/A's that I had did the same thing too, so I lubricated them and that put an end to that problem.
A friend with a '90 RS has the exact same problem too...
Both of my '82 T/A's that I had did the same thing too, so I lubricated them and that put an end to that problem.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
The problem mentioned above is indeed common. Clean not only the locks but also the window channels (I used WD-40), then lube with white grease and you'll be pleased with the outcome. Check the following link for additional info:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084
JamesC
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084
JamesC
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Pacific NW
Car: 85 Z28 - IROC
Engine: 5.7L 350
Transmission: Auto for now...
Thanks for the excellent advice.
I cleaned the mechanicsm and used WD40 on the entire system and it works perfectly!!
Cheers.
I cleaned the mechanicsm and used WD40 on the entire system and it works perfectly!!
Cheers.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 0
From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
This problem goes deeper then WD 40 adn white grease, it may help you aout a little bit, but the real problem is that the door frame on the inside where the motor is mounted for the power door locks is bent, i had this heppen to me at the shop when i was changing a door on a IROC, i put all new componnts in adn it still wouldnt lock, i snooped around and found that the inside skin where the motor is riveted to is bent in, i pulled it out adn lined it all up adn it worked fine, then it happened to my iroc so i took the pannel off and pulled it out and now it works fine adn my shaved door handles and pwer door locks work fine, its not grease it up its straighten it out. Trust me...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Pacific NW
Car: 85 Z28 - IROC
Engine: 5.7L 350
Transmission: Auto for now...
I agree with Charged350,
I did have to slightly bend back on the rod attachment of the locking arm, it was out of shape from the last guy trying to "fix" it.
I did have to slightly bend back on the rod attachment of the locking arm, it was out of shape from the last guy trying to "fix" it.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 0
From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
Thank you, i work at a body shop and ive done this a few times to Camaros, so i know its more then wd 40 fix
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
I won't argue much, because the problem is either caused by a bent rod or by many years of accumulated dirt and grease. Typically, however, if no one has been 'in' the door to create problems (which is probably the situation in most cases), a simple cleaning and relubing will do the trick. My locks/windows still function as designed several years after I completed the above.
JamesC
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Sep 23, 2004 at 11:20 AM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Car: Green 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
I have the same problem with the passenger door in my car. I took the panel off and it looks like the rod comming out of the solenoid comes out at an angle rather than straight causing the door not to fully lock due to a lack of travel of the rod. I also noticed that there is a lot of play in the pivot point between the rod that goes to the door lock and the solenoid actuator rod. I fixed that with some tape temporarily and it helped although I think what really needs to be replaced is the solenoid.
I hope everyone understands the terms i am using to describe lock internals, I know they aren't the correct ones.
I hope everyone understands the terms i am using to describe lock internals, I know they aren't the correct ones.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 0
From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
look on the inside lip of the door where the motor is attached too, if its curved invard teh door, pull it out, it should be perfectly flat and straight so the solenoid can push the wire at teh right angle and make it lock adn unlock
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Miami, Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: Auto
Same thing happens in my 1992 RS, however, it's the passenger door that doesn't lock all the way. I have to hit the "LOCK" button about 5 times for it to lock all the way. I geuss I'll pull the door apart now and WD-40 it up
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