i read how to bypass vats but i cant get the required resistors to add up to 3.74 ohms.either too little or too small of a reading.now what?

 

you could have it programmed out. there's several people on fbody.com that you can ship the ecu to and they'll do it for free.

 

you sure it's not supposed to be 3,740 ohms? check the scale on your meter

 

That did seem awfully low. I think you're going after 3.74k ohms.

 

3.74 would be V.A.T.S code NP i just bought my resistors from radio shack sometimes you have to add a couple together to get the right value. I think a 4.7K Resistor sould get you going. Look on the pack at your nearest electronics store for a 4.7K resistor.

 

if you cant add them together try running them in parrallel to see if you cant get what u need

two in parrallel is just 1/resistance + 1/resistance = 1/resistance total

 

well, is there any place i can just buy a replacement vats box?

 

I don't know if they are still avail at the dealer or not. You could try at a JY and see if they have one and the key for the car. You could also get a 5k or 10k potentiometer from Radio Shack install it then adjust it to the right resistance.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

 

The box isn't the problem, and replacing it won't fix your problem. Just get an extra key and wire it in if you can't find the right resistors.

 

I would recommend that only as a temporary solution. A potentiometer will change its value over time and temperature range. Which would cause an intermittent no-start condition again.

For a permanent solution, a soldered resistor would be the right way to go.

Just my two cents.
Lou

 

Or R total = (R1 x R2)/ (R1 + R2)

 

Measure the resistance of your key. Send me a PM with the value you need and your Return Address and I make up the Resistor(s) for you. I have plenty of values to choose from at work and it will only take me a few minutes.

 

will that work? im having the same problem and was planning on trying that because there isnt a radio shack near my house.

 

If the wires are broken on the back of the key cylinder, yes it will work. Unplug the harness from the cylinder at the base of the steering column and see if you are able to measure the resistance of the key (with it in the cylinder). If not, the wires are probably broken. You can temporarily just cut the wires (cut the section that comes from the key cyl.), strip the ends that lead to the vats box, and touch them to a spare key to see if it will start.

 

yea it worked. my spare key is now electrical taped to the wires under my dash and my car starts fine everytime.

 

 

Now that you know what to do. You should really get a resistor(s) and solder it place of the key. Electrical tape should only be a temporary solution. It will come loose in time.

 

hey guys. . . this is actually happening to my '92 Firebird right now. .. it also happened to my old '94 Buick LeSabre. .. when I fixed it then I bought the right resistors at the Shack and strung them together, put a heat shrink tube around them and put release connectors on the wire at the base of my stearing wheel completely looping back and never going up to the ignition switch. works every time now.
On the other hand. . I have completely forgotten where I found the VATS key number list (13 different keys with their resistance values) and I need them again to find out . . any thing you could send my way would be great. . . thanks!

 

i tried to wire the other key in with the wires and no go.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

here is the vats info

bbsr72, did you verify that the wires are broken on your cylinder?

 

doesn't them being unhooked ,be as good as broken? i'm just guessing. i should of just left old harness in it ,at least it turned over then.but the old wires were all melted.

 

let's start at the beginning. When did it stop working, and what did you change to make it stop working?

 

it stopped working as soon as i changed the wiring harness inside car.it turned over before ,but it didn't pump fuel.but i changed it because of all the big wires that looked melted together.when i bought this new harness this that other key was already wired in.i took it off thinking i didn't need it.

 

did you change the vats box with the harness?

which key is wired in..the one that came wired in the harness or one that used to start your car?

 

yes, everything that came with other car ,i put in mine.i wired the key back into it this morning,and nothing.the car it came from had the steering colum busted out ,but the guy at junkyard said the guy drove it in there with a screwdriver as a key.?the key came with the harness .

 

Well if the key wired in matches the vats box, it shouldn't be the problem. Unfortunately I think you're going to have to break out the wiring diagrams and troubleshoot this the hard way. If it turned over before you changed the harness, something you did in swapping the harness is the culprit.

Good luck!!

 

well thanks for youir time,i know this is monotonous.