After sitting for three years, my passenger side power window will not move and my power rear hatch will not open.

Not the fuses, I already replaced them. Both worked when I parked the car. I have a bad feeling a mouse got to the wiring. These are the only two electrical things that don't work, and I find it odd that the switches are right next to each other. Do they share any wiring?

Other possibility is this:

Years ago, the electric engine fan stopped working, and the idiot mechanic that I took it to, rather than replacing the sensors and temp switch which had gone bad, wired the fan to a toggle switch in the interior. When they did this, they hacked up the wiring harness that leads through the firewall to find a power source. I recently took the car to my usual mechanic who fixed all of this fan nonsense the correct way.

There is currently a purple wire that was cut, and the hot end was connected to a yellow wire which now runs through the firewall. I'm pretty sure that I remember this wire going to the toggle switch that the idiots had rigged up, but it seems to lead back into a bundle of wires near the fuse box. Thoughts? Anyone know where I can find an accurate wiring diagram for these accesories?

 

Hows about some specs on the car? Like year, model,engine size, TPI or TBI or carb, single or dual fan etc.

 

Sorry . . .

'91 RS TBI 305/700R4, pretty sure it's a single fan.

 

So I checked today, and I am getting power to both switches in the console. Anyone have any ideas?

 

So, that purple wire? Definitely the power supply to the power hatch. Now it will pop, but the motor that is supposed to pull it back down is doing nothing. I remember reading several years ago that these power hatches are often problematic and people often replaced them with the regular non-power latch. Is this a simple bolt-on? I don't really need the power hatch, and I definitely don't feel like spending $460 for a whole new unit. Mine is an early production '91 with the A90 option, if that makes a difference in the compatibility of the non-power latch.

 

if it is more to the liking you can pick up a good used one for not too much money..... I will also be doing that as mine has broken.... but I like having the pulldown motor working

 

I'm just sorta nervous since I've heard that these power hatches are problematic, and I sort of feel like making this thing as simple as possible. Hell, I'm even considering retrofitting manual windows and locks.

Is it a bolt-on operation to switch to the non-powered hatch latch?

 

So, to answer my own question and provide the info for anyone else who may be looking . . .

I went to a junkyard the other day to try to find a non-power latch, and they mount to a totally different bracket that is welded in. So, without cutting that bracket out, cutting mine out, and welding the new one into my car. . . definitely not a "bolt on" conversion.

Looks like I'll be calling TDS soon to order that rebuild kit.

 

If your talking about the thick purple wire thats for the rear defrost.

 

Turtle, you can`t go wrong with TDS. I replaced my pull down unit earlier this year and Lon at TDS knows what he is talking about and knows what he is doing. Make sure to follow his instructions for the removal of your old unit and install of your new unit.