I rebuilt my carb and decided to start it today. After several attempts due to no gas in the system I finally got it started. But after running for 10 seconds it quit and then nothing would come on, no dash lights, no interior lights no starter, no lights no nothing. I know my battery is charged and good, (trickle charger) and last I had it running I checked my gauges and it seemed like it was charging.

I'm suspecting a fuseable link. As the motor quit and everything else went at once. While I'm at it, I've also got issues with broken connectors and etc in my motor bay, most notable no CTS connector. Does anyone know where I can find a complete wiring harness, and I can just replace the whole damn thinig?

 

your best bet is if you wanna save money is hit up a junk yard and salvage what you can, or you can get a universal wiring kit, or a pre made wiring harness for your setup from summit, jegs, etc.

 

Ok I'm gonna run the multimeter on the + cable and see if I'm getting power to the starter, if I'm not then there is something askew in that first part from the battery to the starter. Without that you get nothing. If that is the problem then I'll see if I can find a new + battery cable with a new fuseable link on it and all. I've replaced so much electrical stuff thus far due to the fact that the car sat outside in the elements for so long. It doesn't surprise me that the fuseable link may have went. If someone already knows where I can find a made to fit + cable that includes the link so I don't have to make a hackjob cable from universal stuff that would be great.

 

Ok, I went over the battery cable and all its links with the multimeter, I've got over 12.5 at the starter, the battery itself and the fuseable link that goes off into the wiring harness from the + cable was back probed and also read over 12.5. I doubt the starter is the problem as it is new and it fired the car right up and was no part in everything shutting down. The exact reading was 12.67 or in that range throughout. Is there anything else that can be checked to further narrow down the problem? I'm thinking the fuseable links that come off the starter might be part of it. But also what about the ECU?

 

Don’t bother looking at the ECM.

There is no one fusible that can disable all the power.

You have bad connection immediately after where the battery cable goes to the starter.

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Happy Racing!

 

I checked the cable when I was probing for voltage. Still as tight as the day I installed it. I can double check. What about a short somewhere, or how about both fusible links at the starter going at the same time, would that be enough to kill everything? What about the ignition key cylinder and associated parts, something in there could cause it too.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by L695speed;

What about a short somewhere

If you had a short, it would have blown at least one fusible link.

Quote:

Originally Posted by L695speed;

how about both fusible links at the starter going at the same time

That’s possible, so make sure you test each one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by L695speed;

What about the ignition key cylinder and associated parts

That cannot cause loss of all power.

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Happy Racing!

 

I intend to test them both, is there a correct procedure for testing both of them or just put the probe on the respective wires and ground them to read for voltage? The one by the battery already checked out.

 

That’s correct.

Put the probe on the respective wires and ground them to for voltage.

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Happy Racing!

 

Ok one last question before I go ahead and screw around trying to read voltages. On the V8 engine (mine is an L69 harness) are there any other fusible links? I know of the ones by the starter, and the one by the battery. According to the factory manual it looks like there are two more, but their location is not entirely clear.

 

Alright, what I thought may have been a clear cut case, just got more fuzzy. I grabbed a multimeter and was going to check fuses with the probes to see if any power was going to the fusebox. I open the door and to my surprise I saw the clock on. Once I saw that I figured what the hell and shoved the key in and tried to start it. Nothing. Clock went out too. But after a few seconds I saw the clock back on again. Now I know my clock goes on and off as it doesn't stay on all the time. But could it be possible that there is power to the car but the ignition switch is bad thus when I turn the key on I get nothing? The only problem I have with that is I don't think my brake lights work, and those should work regardless, as should the lights I'd suspect.

 

That smacks of a bad connection, and it jibes with your other symptoms. Voltage measurements across a poor connection will be right on, but as soon as current flows through that poor connection, the voltage drops, often completely.

Check all of your cable connections, especially your battery ground cable at both ends. This is most often overlooked -- power is useless without a good ground.

 

Yea that makes sense. I might have been on the right track thinking there was a short and a blown fusible. But all my readings were checking out, and when I saw the clock was on I was like theres gotta be power to the car. But when I try turning it on or flipping switches nothing happens. You've torn down a car more completely than I have. Are there any other critical grounds other than the three I know of in the engine bay? I know of the - battery cable one, the one on the passenger fender, and the one at the firewall to the engine block. There are a couple more for sensors and the like. But chasing down a bad ground is the worst thing to be doing. I'd rather waste hours wet sanding and making the car perfect body wise than chasing a bad ground.

 

The good news is that because 'everything' seems to be affected, I'd bet it's your battery cable.

 

another clue popped up as my lights under the dash came on for a good few minutes as the door was open, flickered, then went back out and the clock came on at the same time while I was taking the panel off the bottom of the dash while seeing if I could test the ignition switch. From what I can see theres no easy way to get to that switch. But the power to the lights are making me think I'm wasting my time chasing down a short and fuse issue when its a ground. From what I know grounds are a real @*%^& to track down and find out which one it is. according to my electronic troubleshooting in the factory service manual there are roughly 25 grounds on these cars...now, there has got to be an easy efficient way of tracking that down rather than ripping the car apart to find and check each one. If anyone knows what it is then it would be greatly appreciated if it could be described to me. Automotive electronics is my weakest link, I can repair wires but its not my skill...I'm more a chassis, motor, body person than anything else.

 

Only problem there........the thing is tight at both groundings and I'm certain the battery post is tight but I'll check that after dinner.

 

Tight is one thing. Clean is another. Also, the cable itself might be bad. I've seen this happen.

 

Found it, fixed it, it lives again, but carb is out of tune....but as far as that goes, practice makes perfect. Thanks, it was shorting on the ground cable.

 

Outstanding! Tuning the carb could present more of a challenge.