Jeffrey Fontaine

Have a '92 Z/28. About four-five times now over the past 2 years, it has not started. Doesn't seem to be any pattern. Has happened in the heat of summer, just other day on a 40* day in the pouring rain. Turn the key, nothing (no crank). Try it enough times (2-20x), and it magically starts like nothing is wrong. Don't remember if I always have to remove the key or just turning again makes it work.

It always seems to happen when I'm away from home. Is there anyway to confirm or rule out VATS without tools while the problem is happening?

Thanks,
Jeff

NINÅ

Jeffrey Fontaine

Any suggestions of where to look?

87IROC-DAN61

Hello Jeffrey Fontaine!!

You might have a "dead spot" in your starter!!

Check out all the inter-related systems that supplies power to the starter!!

Neutral safety switch??

Starter connections??

Coil??

Chaffed wire???

Ignition switch??

NINÅ

aremy10

iTrader: (3)

i had the same problem with mine turned out it was the wats. pass key decoder module was screwy... so i bypassed all the anti theft..behind the driver side kick pannel is the starter relay i just cut the black and yellow wire and grouned it right where the module screws in . but this may not be whats wrong with yours, thats just what was wrong with mine. mine was doin it everyother day not just four or five times in two years.

firebirdman

I am having a similar problem with my 89 firebird. My car will start fine and drive fine but i stop and shut it off and i have to wait for about 5 to 30 min. before it will turn over again. The car just refuses to turn over. I parked it over the winter and went to start it the other day and it wont turn over at all, there is no power to the fuel pump. What do i do? Maybe a bad starter

Jeffrey Fontaine

A new starter has been installed during that time, so doubt its that.

Doubt it could be NSS, I did put in gear than back in P to see, but had made no difference. Why would the starter still click, i would assume no power to starter?
Could be the ignition switch...
Could be a connection or chaffed wire, I guess I was hoping I wouldn't have to follow the length of every wire

Coil shouldn't matter - it doesn't even crank when it happens

87IROC-DAN61

Hello Jeffrey Fontaine!!

Your second post (third in this thread) was asking for suggestions of where to look, I gave you some, and by the process of elimination, you should at least now have an idea as to where to look!!!



Keep us posted as to what you find!!

Jeffrey Fontaine

TTT

Happened again yesterday. Stopped to get gas, hopped back in, nothing. I mean nothing, no battery power. so i double check the battery, ground cable was slightly loose. Tighten up, and get power, but still no start. I notice that the security light does not turn off after a few seconds like normal. The car has a Code alarm. tried arming/disarming, no change. I disconnect the alarm lead to the battery, and reconnect (which triggers the alarm). Disarm, and it starts right up. Is there any significance to the security light? I assume so, but maybe the issue is w/ the alarm brain? There was no clicking this time, and the volts did not drop down like the starter was being nudged at all.

Jeff

camaronewbie

When the car doesn't start, is the starter making any click noise? Can you hear any clicking noise under the driver dash? If you hear any clicking noise, it's not VATS. If you get no clicking noises, then it could be VATS.

If it's a VATS issue, simply regrounding the relay won't fix it - VATS cuts out the starter enable relay AS WELL AS power to the injectors and fuel pump priming, so unless the VATS module has gone bad in such a way that it is ONLY not providing the ground for the relay, that's a wasted effort.

Neutral Safety Switch can be bad or just need adjustment ($20 replacement).

Starter Enable Relay could be bad ($8 replacement).

Could be bad connection at the plug for starter enable relay, or before it.

A light bulb on the purple wire at the starter won't tell the whole story - bulb will light with 9 volts, starter won't turn with less than 11volts. A bad connection in a previous owners rigging of a starter enable relay can cause only 8-9 volts to the starter (I currently have this issue), which would light a bulb but not turn over the starter.

You need to start at the starter enable relay, making sure it's getting 12v+ on the small yellow wire, 12v+ on the large yellow wire, make sure the black/yellow wire is getting ground with key in start position, and make sure there is 12v+ out on the dark green wire, all when the key is turned to start.

Then check the NSS - make sure it's getting 12v+ going in on the dark green wire, and 12v+ out on the purple wire all when the key is turned to start.

Then check the starter, make sure it's getting 12v+ on the purple wire when key is in start position.

This will track down the problem.

t/a350vtpi

had a similar problem. would start the car and drive for awhile and shut it off for gas or something for a short while. turned out to be my battery. it was 8 years old and even though I took it in every winter and trickel charged it would not recharge fast enough. also always read 12-13 volts with my meter. bought a new one and not a problem since. now I'm keeping an eye on the age as well as the voltage.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

I know this sounds ridiculously simple, but I didn't see any mention of it earlier. Could the key be making a bad connection with the VATS reader thing in the key switch and perhaps cleaning up the key contacts or getting a new key with the right resistance might help?