Im having the VATS problem out of my 89 gta. I tried the resistor fix except mines still wont start. I also replaced the vats relay and still no start. WTH!!! I just put $1500 into the car (New fuel tank, new sending unit, fuel pump,fuel filter, all NEW a/c parts and tires) within the last month car ran perfect until this past saturday evening. All that and for this to happen!!!!! HELP......

1. Resistor on key read 2.37.
2. Used a 220 ohm + 2.2k ohm resistor= 2.39 ohm.
3. Found and cut the two yellow wires coming out the black sleeve from the steering column.
4. twisted to test (not soldered) the wires to each end of the resistors.
5. Put key into ignition and turned.....NO START!!!! (check engine light and security light on, then the security light goes off)
6. Replaced the VATS relay by driver side kick panel.
7. Repeated steps 1-7 again.... still NO START!!!!!!

Guys what am I forgetting or doing wrong?

 

I would just get a Chip to bypass it.

 

where can i get a chip from? and how or what do you bypass? the VATS?

 

It's usually (I thought) two white wires inside an orange sleeve.

You can buy a VATS bypass module from Painless wiring or ebay or maybe others, about $50 on ebay, more from Painless. Should have specific instructions on install. Make sure it has a switchable mode on it - there were two different frequencies to the ECM, I think 30Hz and 50Hz.

But first, are we sure it's a VATS issue? Usually, the SECURITY light does NOT go out if it's a VATS issue.

I'd check other ignition wiring first - and check injectors for firing - if the injectors fire, it's not a VATS issue.

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38

 

No need for that $50 box. IF YOUR SECURITY LIGHT is going off and staying off its NOT VATS. ( if the resistor trick doesn't work something else is going on. ) If your light is indeed going off your vats is bypasses.
Ive bypassed DOZENS of cars with the resistors for remote start setups.

Do you have fuel pressure? Do you have Spark ? Do you have an Injector pulse?

 

I didnt see a orange sleeve in my car only a black one with two yellow wires...I hope like hell I didnt cut the wrong wires. I will look for the orange sleeve tomorrow. When I looked at a youtube video it showed a orange sleeve with the two white wires...but that was on a 92 oldsmobile ninety eight regancy. i also looked at one showing the two yellow wires coming off of a small connector that was separated from two yellow wires coming from the steering column of a 94 trans am ws6.

 

@FSTFBDY im pretty sure it has the above u mentioned. i heard the fuel pump purge up the first time i tried to start it up to leave the house. No sound after that point. the light stays on if i hook the tow cut wires back together. if i take them apart and put the resistor trick on them then it comes on and goes off after like 4 secs of turning the key to the on posistion.

 

If its staying ON with the wire like they should be. you have a bad KEY chip.
if it goes off and stays off with the resistors it should be working normal and vats has been bypassed.

Its white wires in a orange sleeve.
Heres some good info.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-v-t-s.html

 

Do you have a extra ignition module around? Id guess thats the problem.

 

im gonna try replacing the key tomorrow then the bypass trick and see what that does. thx guys for your help. i will post results.

 

Keys arnt cheap. Id double check your getting spark,etc.
If the light is out with the resistor in your vats is find with the resistor inline.

 

i replaced the ignition module distributor and rotor button about 3 yrs ago. it did the same thing once back then and i left the car at work. the next day it started up and had no problems since then. this was the first time since then its done it and not even want to start up at all. The last key i purchased for my 95 impala ss was about 40 bucks when i had an issue with the vats system in that car. I should have just replaced the key in the first place to eliminate the obvious then went on to the bypass if that didnt work. The key is over 20yrs old so im gonna pray thats the problem. if not then plan B.

 

can your car still start sometimes if vats is not working right??

 

If you have down there - any ACE Hardware can make new key for about $25

 

If the security light is going out, just for sh*ts and giggles I would take a look at the 20 amp fuse located near the battery in the engine compartment since this is the fuse for power to the computer from the battery. Who knows?

p.s. There where two versions of that wire for the vats module. The first one had a yellow wire and a purple wire in a black sleeve. The current one has two white wires in an orange sleeve.

 

***UPDATE****Had a new key cut today from the local chevrolet dealership for only 24.00 plus tax. Tried testing the ohms from the two wires coming from the column. With the key in the ignition im getting the 2.37 ohm reading...without the key in the ignition im getting a 0 ohm reading. The other two wires leading to the small connector read -18.37 ish or something like that. Im going to take pics of this wire that I have in my car. It is a black sleeve with two yellow wires coming out of my column so everybody can see what im talking about. It has the same small connector in the pictures that you guys have been showing me. Guys trust me when i say i have no doubt that other cars have the orange sleeve with the two white wires, Its just that mines is a different color. Im gonna drop the starter and have it tested because Im not gonna cut anymore friggin wires lol. If the starter test out good then im gonna check the ignition control module (doubt if thats the problem) because car is silent except for the clicking of the vats relay inside coil spring loaded switch.

 

jack the car up, and with the key on, try to jump the starter with a screwdriver. if it starts, its vats not getting the signal from the key.

 

@ GOATS@QUICK you must have gotten my message for help. lol

 

if your not getting a blinking SECURITY light can it still in anyway be VATS??? i dont think my injectors are firing...

 

NO if the vats light is OUT its not gonna be a vats issue.

OP, stop worrying about what the wires Ohm with or with out your key for right now.

Its really a simple circuit. If you wired the resistor in with the two white wires in the orange shrink tube (or whatever color your wires are) and your vats light is OUT. It wont be a vats issue.. If the security light is OUT then that system is working fine.

You have a crank and no start issue.....

You said your pretty sure.. you had these as I asked. pretty sure isnt a deff. YES>

checked for fuel. is it the correct fuel PSI. (if its not the right psi your not gonna start)
You said you have injector pulse (did you check it with a noid light and its blinking as you crank it. (no injector pulse no start)
You said you have spark?

You said you doubt its a ign. module. a bad one will ause a no start. Ive seen em go bad with in days, hell even minutes of being replaced. Pull it out its only 10min. Have it checked.
Im not trying to be an *** and keep repeating myself but I do this kinda work everyday. Just going over the obvious easy stuff with you.

 

Will the car not say anything at all if its a module issue? ex: turn key....silence........
last time I had a module issue the engine would turn but not fire up. thats why I eliminated the module issue so quickly. My 5 month old wouldn't let his daddy work on it today lol so I guess I will try again tomorrow. FSTFBDY im taking your advice believe me so thanks for real bruh. Im checking things as I go. Just wished it would have done this $1500 ago thats all lol. but I guess thats why we all love our Thirdgens huh??

 

So its a NO CRANK issue.

put it up on jack stands and jump the starter small to big terminal. Does the starter turn over?

 

It was the starter. A few taps and it started right up. Thkx Guys I feel like such a freakin idot.

 

Either I skip it or didnt realize your had a NO CRANK issue vs NO START issue. I woulda said tap on it 1st. Then went from there.

anyways glad you got it figured out.

 

Can anyone help??? I have a 91 firebird 305 tbi. The problem I have had for years is that sometimes, I turn the key and everything lights up, but no crank. Any from several minutes to several days, it will start right up. The security light never comes on. I was told this is a vats issue. I have purchased a vats bypass module. Everything is connected properly except for the instructions say the vats wire should be blue or purple going to the ecm. One set of instructions say pin f10 and others say b6. My ecm connectors do not have either of these.

Any ideas???