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It depends on what your working on. I would never pull hi amperage from the fuse block. You get that power from the battery terminal mounted next to the battery on the wall. That is constant hot at all times. If you looking for low amperage key "on" power for a relay like for a fan then you can tap into one of the slots in the rear of the fuse block. Just test a few and use a spade connecter in the slot. As I said IMO the
fuse block is there to run a relay that is being supplied high amperage power by the junction block in the photo. A word of caution. I would disconnect both battery cables before touching it.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Mar 21, 2015 at 09:36 PM.
I run like a buzz bar I bought a few years ago I forget what you really call it an put it under the pass. side under the dash an run power to it an then run what every you want like 2 separate fuses boxes an put a 30 amp circuit breaker to it I have no problems.
You get that power from the battery junction block that I mentioned. The one in the photo. That's what its for. Just use heavy gage wire ( 10 gage at least ) and install an inline fuse/circuit breaker as you mentioned close to the power source on that wire. As I said be careful touching it.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Mar 21, 2015 at 10:11 PM.
It depends on what your working on. I would never pull hi amperage from the fuse block. You get that power from the battery terminal mounted next to the battery on the wall. That is constant hot at all times. If you looking for low amperage key "on" power for a relay like for a fan then you can tap into one of the slots in the rear of the fuse block. Just test a few and use a spade connecter in the slot. As I said IMO the
fuse block is there to run a relay that is being supplied high amperage power by the junction block in the photo. A word of caution. I would disconnect both battery cables before touching it.
Hey, thanks for the information!
This project won't be running any kind of high-amp tasks. The always-on link will be providing power to an Arduino microcontroller (which draws between 500mA and 1 amp maximum), and the ignition power will be supplying power to an additional Arduino as well as a Raspberry Pi computer (drawing between 1.2 and 2.5 amps).
Originally Posted by paulo57509
I don't know if the fuse block is model year specific but perhaps this might help:
It shows that there are already taps for both switched and un-switched 12 volt power.
Yup! Thank you! After posting this thread I continued doing additional research and I found out about those BAT and IGN terminals in the fuse block. I think that's going to be my best bet. I just wish I had the car sitting where I can get to it to experiment with this stuff. It's been sitting in the paint shop for the past 18 days SLOOOOOWWLY getting prepped to be painted. I haven't been able to do **** to test anything I've been working on.
In addition to doing what Ron suggests, (which I've done for my electric fan and MSD ignition) you can also get fuse block connectors from Pico that fits into the terminals you've found in your fuse block. They're specifically keyed for ignition and battery. There's also one available for the gauge socket in the fuse block that can be used for aftermarket gauges and offer the same dimming functions as the factory lamps.
As skinny z mentioned , what I suggested is primarily to wire in fans, especially large fans with hi amp draw. When you do it that way you are building a independent circuit separate from the stock wiring. The only stock aspect is the power from the fuse block that controls a ignition circuit that supplies power in the key "on only" position for the relay controlling the circuit.
Although formula1LE , offers the highest quality ,professionally built circuits I've seen.
My favorite for adding an axillary fan looks like this.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Mar 23, 2015 at 01:42 AM.
Power 'taps' in the fusebox are great,.... Real nice to have a dedicated power line to the radio circuit ! However; I prefer to use the junction block for adding accessories if it's not already full. Your 86 should have one of these behind the drivers side kick panel:
The 2 "connectors" show are the wires that get full-time and switched power from the fusebox. Pink = switched, and Orange/black = full-time.
Most of an 86's interior accessories get their power supply from this junction box. There is room for 5 switched and 5 full time accessories. ( this # can be increased by using plugs with more that 1 wire pigtail ) The connectors can be cut from any 82-87 (88?) junkyard thirdgen. The factory wiring for the junction block was heavy gauge for some accessories (power windows) and fine gauge for others (hatch area light) so you can use the plug/wiring that is best suited for your newly added options.
Power 'taps' in the fusebox are great,.... Real nice to have a dedicated power line to the radio circuit ! However; I prefer to use the junction block for adding accessories if it's not already full. Your 86 should have one of these behind the drivers side kick panel:
The 2 "connectors" show are the wires that get full-time and switched power from the fusebox. Pink = switched, and Orange/black = full-time.
Most of an 86's interior accessories get their power supply from this junction box. There is room for 5 switched and 5 full time accessories. ( this # can be increased by using plugs with more that 1 wire pigtail ) The connectors can be cut from any 82-87 (88?) junkyard thirdgen. The factory wiring for the junction block was heavy gauge for some accessories (power windows) and fine gauge for others (hatch area light) so you can use the plug/wiring that is best suited for your newly added options.
Interesting. You say that this junction block is an OEM part behind the kick panel? That's something I'll defntely have to look into. (I've an 86 as well)
It appears from your picture that the connectors (pink, black and green) are similar to (if not exactly like) the Pico connectors posted previously. Keyed in such a way that they can only be inserted into the fuse block's dedicated locations. That is, switiched (ignition) and unswitched (full time). Is that right? If that's the case, is this junction box and extension of the fuse block and it gets it's power via those connectors?
What would be the max amperage these blocks could supply? I understand that the igniton and power sockets in the fuse block that I've plugged my Pico connectors into are fused at 30 amps however I've never verified that (something posted here at ThirdGen). I always place an appropriatley sized in-line fuse to any circuit I've added. Except for the gauge light accessory socket which I assume is already fused properly.
This will certainly tidy up my under dash wiring. The tach, gauges, data logger, choke, TCC, etc have all taken up quite a bit of space under there. I'm in the middle of a spring revamp at the moment and this info is very timely.
Last edited by skinny z; Mar 28, 2015 at 05:05 PM.
Well, I DO have the tap block that John has pointed out. (Thank you John)
Now my question is: what type of connector is designed to plug into it?
Is it the Pico 955-BP and 958-BP mentioned earlier?
This will certainly tidy up my under dash wiring. The tach, gauges, data logger, choke, TCC, etc have all taken up quite a bit of space under there.
That was the problem I ran into,... too many custom installed accessories and not enough "good" places to obtain power from. I do not know how much power the junction block is rated for,... but it was obviously designed to have a full compliment of factory equipment plugged into it; and not just minor electrical items such as hatch light. I mean stuff that pulls a heavy load like power seats and Power Windows.
This pic shows how the fuse box feeds power to the Junction block using the small "keyed" plugs. ( short wiring connectors plug into the BACK of fuse box. )
The plugs you want to obtain are the ones that plug into the Junction block - not the fuse box. The PINK wire connectors are smaller than the ORANGE wire connectors so they can't be plugged into the wrong slot. ( you will clearly see the different plug when you take a closer look at yours )
A little about the single wire fuse box taps,..... If you use all the Junction block sockets and don't want to use 2 wire plugs there, you can still use the front of the fuse-box. The factory used these slots for all kinds of stuff ( 83 radio, the 84 power antenna, and the 86 auto-dim mirror, ect.... ) so these plugs are pretty common in junkyards cars too.
The BLACK connector will fit into the BAT ( 2 sockets far right )
The WHITE connector will fit into the IGN ( 2 sockets far left )
I don't know what color plug fits the middle 2 sockets on the front.... NOT PINK, BLUE, WHITE, BLACK or GREEN. Maybe BROWN would fit ???
Regardless; If the "KEY" is trimmed from the plug -any color plug - the plug will fit into ALL of the sockets and still lock into place. ( just be careful about wire colors if trimming the key,.... example; Orange wire is usually HOT at all times.)
That's all excellent information. Thanks again. I've come across a wrecking yard here that, without a word of a lie, has no less than 50 3rd gens. It's stocked full of Camaros and Firebirds only but the majority cover the 10 years our cars were produced. I can see a shopping trip in my future.
That said, until I get to that yard, I'll use my aftermarket (Pico brand) connectors and plug into the face of fuse block for now. I've just finished the rough assembly of my new gauge cluster and am taking the opportunity to get under the dash and tidy up the years of additions and clutter that's managed to accumulate.
Here's a question though: Does the fuse block actually swing down? I've tried releasing the mechanism on the side but I can't get that sucker to budge. I don't want to break anything else...
I'd also like to thank Accipiter for the loan of his thread. It's been very helpful.
Does anyone know where this electrical junction block is installed and can you provide a picture? I removed the entire dash for restoration and can't figure out where the junction block was originally installed.
Later cars didn't use the junction block. So if you're working with a later car, it won't be there. If it's an early car, flip down the fuse block and look for the Orange connector and pink wire plugged in the back of the fuse block. That pink wire is maybe 8" long, and goes right to the junction block that is snapped to the kick panel above the fuse block.
Later cars power all the "Power Accessory" circuits off the C238 connector. C238 on later cars looks like this... It's the three wire connector with the orange and pink wires.
I have an 87 GTA and definitely have the distribution block. The original kick panel does not have a location to snap the block into. Do you have a photo of the distribution block installed?
I use these Pico connectors for taping into the face of the fuse block.
There's a third as well that is specific for what I used tap into dimming my aftermarket gauges.
Thank you. I knew those existed for the fuse block, but the connectors for the junction box are different, and are what i'd like to utilize if I know what the connectors are.
Fair enough. It was sort of inferred that they were in earlier posts but then again, maybe not.
If you get an answer can you post back here? I'd like to know. Now I'm not sure of what I used I used to tap into that auxiliary block.
The Bussed Electrical Centers used in our Cars (and in most GM Vehicles at that period in time) use the Pack-Con I (ONE) and Pack-Con III (THREE) Connection System...
Some of the Pack-Con I (ONE) and Pack-Con III (THREE) Terminals may also be an "HD" Variant (40A Max Continuous Ampacity).
Also, rarely you will come across some Pack-Con II (TWO) Parts in GM Vehicles from this era.
The Bussed Electrical Center (IP Fuse Panel) has Pack-Con I (ONE)/ Pack-Con III (THREE) Female Terminals installed.
The Blades of ATO/ ATC Fuses mimic Male Pack-Con I (ONE)/ Pack-Con III (THREE) Terminals.
The Colored Connections on the back-side of the Bussed Electrical Center (IP Fuse Panel) are Male Pack-Con I (ONE)/ Pack-Con III (THREE) Connectors.
Most all of the Terminals for the Pack-Con Connection Family are still produced/ available...
But the OEM Connector Bodies are NOT (excluding maybe 10 different Connector Bodies) really available anymore.
The Male Pack-Con Connectors for the back-side, are really only still produced by the Aftermarket.
For example, American Autowire (whom I really dislike as far as Harnesses go) offers a very nice selection (shown in Image below):
Please know that I am happy to have any of you reach-out to me for any GM/ PED/ Delphi Connection System needs.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Mar 13, 2022 at 07:49 PM.
The Bussed Electrical Centers used in our Cars (and in most GM Vehicles at that period in time) use the Pack-Con and Pack-Con III Connection System.
Very rarely you will come across Pack-Con II Parts in other GM Vehicles from this era.
The Bussed Electrical Center has the Female Terminals installed.
The Connections on the back-side of the Fuse Panel are Male Pack-Con Connectors.
The Male Pack-Con Connectors for the back-side, are really only still produced by the Aftermarket.
For example, American Autowire (whom I really dislike as far as Harnesses go) offers a very nice selection (shown in Image below):
Please know that I am happy to have any of you reach-out to me for any GM/ PED/ Delphi Connection System needs.
These look similar to the Pico taps posted earlier. That would be for the main fuse panel.
Those are Pack-Con II (TWO) Connectors... they are similar to the Pack-Con I (ONE) and Pack-Con III (THREE) in my previous Post...
They use the Female Pack-Con II (TWO) Terminals.
I honestly forgot that our Cars had any Pack-Con II Connections...
I am Sorry.
Some of the Corvette Reproduction Places usually sell some Aftermarket Connectors/ Connector Bodies.
I'll have to get back here later, with answers on who is still selling some.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Mar 13, 2022 at 07:56 PM.
Very rarely you will come across Pack-Con II Parts in other GM Vehicles from this era.
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Those are similar to the Terminals in my previous Post...
But they are the Female Pack-Con II Connectors.
I honestly forgot that our Cars had any Pack-Con II Connections; sorry.
The plot thickens.
Thanks as always Mr V.
I have no immediate need however as my build progresses, you never know.
My current wiring harness, although far from a hack job, (I'm a wireman by trade) could certainly stand to be streamlined and updated.
Could you connect an accessory that requires full time power to one of the battery power (Orange) wire side of the junction block? It seems the factory accessories that connected to this junction block are things that only need momentary power - like power seat, power antenna, hatch release, etc. Would this work for something like a stereo system / TV screens that would draw constant power while they are on (for car shows)?
I dont think i would use that junction (behind the kick panel) for high current draw. IIRC the power for that comes from the fuse box. I believe it goes to a 20 amp fuse.
The Power Seat uses the most 'juice' on the Power at all times (ORANGE) "rail" and the Power Windows draw the most juice from the switched power rail (PINK) in the junction block,... So feeding another accessory that will draw a heavy load will be OK - but only SHORT TERM. If your going to install a little TV or small stereo you should be fine tapping into the junction block, but if your going to install a stereo SYSTEM that's making any power you should consider some other option.......
