Restoring my 86. Stock window motors are done.
Even new they were always slow like most are.
I would like to upgrade with motors that are not slow.
Suggestions on parts and sources?
TIA

 

Best bet is buy one with a lifetime warranty...
I know A1 Auto (a sponsor here) sells them with (and possibly without for cheaper)... I bought mine from them...

But be sure to make copies of receipts / photo / scan and keep them electronically cuz stores often clean out their records and if you don't have proof you bought it from them with that warranty, you're SOL...

Rafael

 

Check out this thread. New window switch relays that speed up the stock motors.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...relay-kit.html

Should be just what you need.

 

formula1LE made me a set for my new motors and they do make the windows go much faster than the old slow pokes

 

Try cleaning the tar that used to be grease out of the window tracks. In extreme cases the grease has turned to a solid that practically has to be chiseled away.

Also helps if the rubber is soft, and lubricated with silicone, so the window can slide without grabbing.

 

Tracks are all very clean and lubed.
Getting the relay harness for the switches, but still looking for motors.
Do fourthgen or any other motors interchange with these?

 

Apparently they(GM)motors and regulators are discontinued for our 3rd gens,1A and Classic sell reproduction motors.

 

Seem to remember that when I looked in the past, 4th gen motors and regulators are reportedly the same as thirdgen regulators. But I never looked into it far enough to verify.
At any rate, 4th gen regulators and motors are the exact same technology, and equally considered slow. So even if they could be made to work, they wouldn't be any better.

 

The only obvious difference I see between the 2002 Camaro and 1992 Camaro window motors is the number of teeth on the drive gear.

 

Interesting. I would have thought they would have improved for newer cars. wonder if the gears can be swapped

 

Clean the tracks, new motors, relays and heavier gauge wire to the motors will make them operate as intended/desired

 

With the new motors and formula1LE's new harness, your good to go

 

If you really abhor electrical projects then paying $70 for those is the way to go but if you can do follow a wiring diagram, cut and splice wires then you can make those yourself for around $10. Here is my thread about it from several years back: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-switches.html

I didn't share the night and day difference in speed some other members have claimed. I believe that if your window tracks are clean, the rollers are round and not seized and the motors are new or newer you won't see a big difference between relays and a switch. I believe that the bigger problem lies in the gauge of the power wires going to the window. In stock configuration the power has to travel through 16-20' of wire to get to the power window motor. I believe it's a four gauge from the battery to the starter and then a 10 gauge from the starter to the C100 and then a 10 gauge from the C100 to the fuse box. That's OK so far but at the fuse box to the switch and then the switch to the windows I believe that it's a 14 gauge. The fuse box uses a 30 amp breaker and a 14 gauge can only carry 30 amps for around 4' -- which will only get you to the window switch. To properly use these relays and the stock wiring you would need each relay to be mounted behind each kick panel. Driver's relay behind drivers kick panel, etc. If you put the relays in place of the switch and then still use the stock wiring you are only slightly fixing the issue.

 

When i redid my car I put 10 gauge from the switches to the windows it made a big difference

 

How did you wire in the 10 gauge? Did you find the correct terminals for the switch and window connector or did you just solder in the 10 gauge as close to the switch and connector as you could?

Voltage drop is very real in these cars. I made my own switched power source and that sees 0.25-0.5 Volts higher without any load Vs the vehicles stock switched power.

 

I bought new terminals and crimped. I think I had to cut some of the strands since it was only meant for a 12 gauge wire, but since I am only concerned about the voltage drop across the long distance it shouldn't be a problem in the long run. I am also using a window closer module, so that has it's own relays inside.

 

It'd be easier to run relays and reduce the load to and from the switches. It'd save on wire, potentially make the switches last longer, etc.