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Hello. I bought an old 1991 camaro. Was parked for roughly 16 years. I need help restoring it's electrical system, and here's a list of problems, and a list of things that aren't problems. Please excuse the sideways photos
I have headlights, turn signals, horn, dash lights, brights, radio, AC, ignition cylinder recognizes me turning it.
There is 1 black wire leading to nothing under the dash:
The car is always "ON" or "accesories". If I put a battery in the car, it immidiately powers on. Its as if it's always in accesories.
When the key is INSERTED, the "SECURITY" light comes on. Turning the key, there is faint clicking under the hood and nothing else(sounds like relays clicking together). I have not tried removing the key for 4 minutes then re-inserting it. I have tried cranking it(Getting security light), then waiting 4 minutes, and cranking it again and getting the same light.
I have bypassed the VATS using a 2kohm resistor and a 330ohm resister. I have key #8. Picture below.
The ignition switch might be mis adjusted.
What is the battery surface voltage ?
You can trace back where you are loosing the 12v to the starter solenoid.
Power starts at the ignition switch then goes to your gear selector if automatic or clutch safety switch then through the starter enable relay.
I do not believe I am losing power anywhere. I think it is a VATS problem because the security light comes on. Battery voltage is unknown, but it starts my other cars so it's good(it's actually from another car, right size and CCA).
I'm planning on testing power at the starter later tonight to verify that it works, but I think it does.
You didn’t bypass the vats just removed the passkey from reading the key resistor.
To fully bypass the vats you need a hz modulator or to have it programmed out of the ecm.
Not sure what those loose wires go to. http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
I looked closer at the connector with 3 wires. It has the words "P.E.D. 9" written on the back, in addition to the letters "A", "B", "C", "D", printed on each wire-slot.
I looked closer at the connector with 3 wires. It has the words "P.E.D. 9" written on the back, in addition to the letters "A", "B", "C", "D", printed on each wire-slot.
It’s a packard connector with the cavity’s labeled
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 06-23-2018 at 09:54 PM.
More info!
Starter enable relay doesn't click(relay by left foot driver side kick panel). I read on the yellow and green wire 11.46 volts. Shouldn't it be battery voltage? Battery voltage is 12.08 when cranking, 12.4 when not cranking.
Neutral safety switch reads 10.64 volts. Both of the wires read that.
Where is the voltage going? Is this normal? Where should I look next?
When I go to crank, I hear 2 clicks under the hood. I do not know if this is the starter solonoid or not.
What are all possible things that can be wrong in the scenario?
Aside from the obvious no click no crank problem, I am now realizing another problem:
The fuel pump does not prime. Or at least, it does not audible prime. On my GMC it is a whine, and I hear nothing on this car. That raises a few questions:
Theoretically, would I hear the pump prime without fuel in the tank? I do not know if there is fuel or not.
Can 16 year old gas be so thick it would clog the pump completely and make no noise?
What are the steps to diagnose a no-prime state of the fuel pump? Like before, I tested the starter enable relay and read voltage on both thick wires, so VATS should be properly bypassed.
The fuel system will have to be gone through. From the pump to the injectors. Varnished fuel gums up the pump and injectors. You can check to see if the pump is getting the 2 sec prime at the relay and at the rear body plug that’s bye the tank. Iirc the prime wire is a green/white stripe from the ecm to the relay. The ecm controls the hot side of the primary winding of the relay.
If you have tpi here is the correct schematic
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 06-26-2018 at 08:27 PM.
06-22-2018, 11:33 AM
