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Sorry for the stupid question but I noticed a connector in-line from the positive battery connector to the positive terminal on the alternator. It's close to the battery side, I can't figure out if it's supposed to be plugged in somewhere.
Have been having trouble with the alternator charging the battery, ordered a new alternator but now I'm thinking this plug could also have something to do with it?
Yeah one end from the positive terminal on the alternator the other end is the positive battery cable. Can't seem to find anywhere it's intended to be plugged in.
Would have had an ECM at one time. Every one of these cars for US sales did. Who knows what some hack hacked out of it when they did the other hack. Although if your car came with a carb, 82087 LG4 or L69, it could conceivably have had both a carb and an ECM, with that connector in use.
Would have had an ECM at one time. Every one of these cars for US sales did. Who knows what some hack hacked out of it when they did the other hack. Although if your car came with a carb, 82087 LG4 or L69, it could conceivably have had both a carb and an ECM, with that connector in use.
I was told the car is all stock, the radio was swapped to a modern deck by the previous owner but like you say who knows what kind of hack job they did.
If they did disconnect the ECM power supply would the car still run properly?
If it had the computer-controlled carb it would run terrible and probably consume fuel measured in gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon.
A photo of the engine with the air cleaner removed, if it has one, would help identify what you have.
hard to make out but the number stamped on the carb is 17085582 1225 HZN.
From what it looks like I could have a M4ME carb? If it has no electronic control would it still come with that wire from the factory just not hooked up to anything?
Yup, M4ME. That designation means a Modified model 4M (Q-Jet) with Electric choke. Looks like the export model; can't recall what the RPO was, but basically, it's the LG4 with no computer. US cars got the E4ME; Electronically controlled, model 4M (Q-Jet), Electric choke.
The reason it came with that wire from the factory is because it's eeeeeeeeeeezier and cheeeeeeeeeeper in a factory to have one extra little bit of nothing like that for just a handful of cars, than to keep up with 2 different parts that are exactly the same except only slightly different and then keep up with which cars get which one. If the split was more nearly half-and-half they might have bothered. But for the tiny minority that went to Canada it wasn't worth it.
You'll find it'll run AHELLUVALOT better if you advance the timing (rotate the distributor body CCW) about 10° from where it is now. Put it to where the plug wire towers look straight rather than twisted slightly clockwise like it is now. Mark it of course so you can put it back if you don't like the extra power, throttle response, gas mileage, and cooler running that you'll get from TUNING the car.
Yup, M4ME. That designation means a Modified model 4M (Q-Jet) with Electric choke. Looks like the export model; can't recall what the RPO was, but basically, it's the LG4 with no computer. US cars got the E4ME; Electronically controlled, model 4M (Q-Jet), Electric choke.
The reason it came with that wire from the factory is because it's eeeeeeeeeeezier and cheeeeeeeeeeper in a factory to have one extra little bit of nothing like that for just a handful of cars, than to keep up with 2 different parts that are exactly the same except only slightly different and then keep up with which cars get which one. If the split was more nearly half-and-half they might have bothered. But for the tiny minority that went to Canada it wasn't worth it.
You'll find it'll run AHELLUVALOT better if you advance the timing (rotate the distributor body CCW) about 10° from where it is now. Put it to where the plug wire towers look straight rather than twisted slightly clockwise like it is now. Mark it of course so you can put it back if you don't like the extra power, throttle response, gas mileage, and cooler running that you'll get from TUNING the car.
Wow thanks for all the help!
Once I get the alternator put in I'll try rotating the distributor, I haven't driven the vehicle enough to see a before and after but if it will have that many positive effects to advance the timing than why not give it a shot
One more question for you, the carb looks pretty dirty, would it be worth while to take it off and clean it up? I haven't done that type of thing before but it looks like it should be pretty straight forward, unbolt, douse it in carb cleaner etc, reboot with a new gasket?
There's a little more to it than that... the dirt on the outside is insignificant, it's what's inside that counts. There's ALOT of little parts and pieces in that carb, all of which have to be taken apart, cleaned up, reassembled, and readjusted. One step at a time: get the car running first, go from there.
