I know this a shot in the dark but does anybody know if there is a source for those fuel pump bulkheads behind the rear seats?? Mine is shot, I get power thru the grey wire to that bulkhead inside the car but nothing goes to the other side above the diff.

I've searched the internet everywhere and come up with zip. Maybe I'll just drill a hole put a grommet in there and pass some wires thru it and put a female connector on it and be done with it.

Anybody else have issues with that thing after their car has sat around for a few years, like 5 in my case?? Thanks everybody

 

I looked high and low for this as well. No one makes it.

 

Yea I didn't think so. I've got a bunch of weather pack connectors I'll just drill a hole, put a grommet in, feed the wires thru and seal it up. Done deal

 

It actually shows as "on backorder" at Mouser last time I looked. It doesn't show as obsolete, so you might be able to get one. I was going to order one and see what happened

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-12186020

 

Scooter, that Delphi Part Number is for the 4th-Gen F-Body pass-through/ bulk-head electrical connector (and yes, you are correct... this part number is still ACTIVE).

The Third-Gen Part never went OBSOLETE the way that more recent Part Numbers have...
They just stopped production of them.
I do find them NOS, on very rare occasions (almost always under an incorrect Part Number... the original Part Number is inactive).

 

Yea I've searched and searched and even went to the dealer around my parts and nothing. It did work before I put the car away while I went to work on a new drivetrain. Stored outside under a car cover with the whole fuel system ripped out of it as well. Time and elements won the fight

 

Doh, Sorry. I hadn't looked at the part in a long time and I wasn't thinking when I posted

 

About the only thing you could do at this point because the bulkhead isn't serviceable is to open up the housing, resin it to a female weatherpak and plate and seam seal the area. I hollowed out mine originally to run larger gauge wire for a bigger intank. Its a stupid setup.

 

The Weather-Pack Connector is ONLY rated for a 20A Continuous Load per Terminal.
So Any of you guys that are looking to run a Big High-Amperage Pump should not use the Bulk-Head, or...

Remove the Ground Circuit from the Connector... ground the Pump to a location outside.
Then run 2 12v+ Wires through the Connector.
Now you have a total of 40A Continuous Load through the Bulk-Head.

 

I wouldn't run the stock wiring an connector anyway with anything but stock pumps. The intank as well as the in car wires are lucky to be 14-16. A 315lph will pull 14-16 Amps, but you loose voltage on the length by way of voltage drop if you use the factory wiring in car which is 14 most likley 16g.You can get a upgraded intank wiring from racetronix. Factory wiring in tank is like 16-18g.On the bulkheads you can run a Deutsch connector which is rated higher. Just need the correct tools to crimp, plus fab your own seal. Maybe a 400lph or dual will pull more than 20amps, but you can buy gm metripacks with the upgraded pins for 12g wiring. 315lph will fuel 99% of the cars on this board

 

The very common Deutsch (DT) Connectors are only rated at 13A per terminal.
Weather-Pack = 20A.
Metri-Pack 280 = 30A.

The smallest Deutsch (DTM) Connectors are only rated at 7A per terminal.
There is a larger, less known Deutsch DTP Connector...
But only comes in a 2-Way or 4-Way Connector = 25A.

 

I run a full Racetronix plug n play dual 340 pump setup. All new harnesses from the bulkhead to tank, in tank wiring, alternator to the rear with new relays. Everything is upgraded. The only thing the grey wire does for me is trigger it all

 

LIke I said in previous post. You can get a 20 amp 12g pinned weatherpack. It will easily support a 315lph pump. The op is most likely asking for a stock type replacement anyway.The best part of staying with GM weatherpaks is the tools and crimps are easy to use, find and disassemble. Plus the tools are cheap. I run I run a Molex 150 on my cnp power connection for coils. Its rated at 40amps, but the tools aint cheap to assemble and crimp. Plus buying tools for one time use is not smart,but I wanted the harness to come out in one piece and not all be hard wired to the holley harness. The way to run bigger wires to pump with bad bulkhead connector on single pump. Is to cut the connector in half leaving a bit of the connector on pump side. Drill out the holes through and run the wires through that. Keeps the bulkhead connector there, wires won't get chafed, and you still have the seal. Can either bolt it back or pop rivet back in place. Dual pump cars and the such, well thats not the norm, and it's probably not in the realm of what the op is asking about. Must be making some serious power to run dual pump. Sound like a nice setup.

 

The Molex MX150 Sealed Electrical Connector Series is a quite nice, relatively modern System of Connectors.

Like many Connector Systems with a 1.5mm Terminal... the design is based off of the Delphi 1.5mm Metri-Pack 150 System.

The Molex MX150 offers one of the highest Ampacity-Ratings available for a 1.5mm Terminal based Connector Series.
They are rated for 22A per Terminal.
Most Connector Systems that use a 1.5mm Terminal, max-out near 15A per Terminal.

 

Hey, this 4th gen ABS fuel pump pass thru looks interesting with mixed Metri-Pack 150 / 280. Does it have serviceable terminals, or is it like the 3rd gen C313 where it cannot be modified?

There is like almost zero info about these things on Google.

 

The Terminals in the Bulk-Head were Potted in-place...
(who knows with Aftermarket replacements).

That Bulk-Head came in about 8 different Variants with different Terminals Populated (depending on the Vehicle and use of ABS/ Rear Suspension Position Sensors.
All I cared about was the MP280 Terminals...
Often I would be able to get a Variant with 7 of 8 Terminals Populated.

Should be Part:
-GM= #15305930
-ACDELCO= #PT1070.

 

Here: