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I am going to be installing some power seats from a fourth gen into a non-power 87 T/A. When looking at the fuse block to to verify I have an open terminal, I saw that the BATT terminals are oriented differently than the others. Do I just bridge the two with terminals with one 30A fuse tap or are these actually two separate BATT terminals for two separate spade connections should I need them? Thanks.
As a side note, It appears I have one open terminal for RADIO and one for INST LPS but my gauge cluster all lights up fine and the radio works. Are these just open terminals for additional accessory wiring?
Last edited by DoctorStoopid; Nov 16, 2022 at 12:20 PM.
Is there anything wrong with wiring a fusible link to the BATT terminal to power a driver's seat? I don't see anywhere else on the block with a provision for a power seat since the car didn't original come with it.
Pretty sure that is not where power seats are supposed to get power from. Should be a couple slots for 30 amp circuit breakers...
I see now, and with the responses below yours, what everyone is talking about. You mention breakers though, not fuses. Would these big silver caps be circuit breakers as opposed to fuses that are already installed? I must have clipped these out of my original picture by mistake. Hopefully this means the car is already wired for power seats and I just need to plug it in .
For what it's worth, I have 4th gen powered seats with the air pump and never had any problems using the fuse I showed in my link. I think I cut the connectors off and reinstalled more common connectors at the kick panel and the seat. No point struggling finding obscure part numbers when you can just get a new connector pair and crimp new terminals to the wires.
You guys are discussing the C238 (Buss Bar) Power Distribution Center.
It is comprised of 3 Buss Bars...
The Buss Bars are powered by 3 Power Sources: the Power Window Circuit Breaker, the Power Accessory Circuit Breaker, and the Power Accessory Fuse.
The Image Below shows how Power goes from the IPBEC/ Fuse Panel (Instrument Panel Bussed Electrical Center) to the C238 Bussed Electrical Center:
The Image Below show the 3 Wires/ Circuits that feed Power into each Buss Bar at C238:
Using the Image above; The 3 Buss Bars (from Left to Right) are as follows:
-18 AWG Orange Wire with a Black Connector is Circuit 40 from the 20A Power Accessory Fuse at the back of the IPBEC.
-10 AWG Orange Wire with Black Tracer and a Green Connector is Circuit 60 from the 35A Power Accessory Circuit Breaker at the back of the IPBEC.
-10 AWG Pink Wire with an Orange Connector is Circuit 76 from the 35A Power Window Circuit Breaker at the back of the IPBEC.
Below is an Image showing the Pac-Con II Electrical Connectors that Connect to the C238 Buss Bars:
Not to thread-jack, but where can I get those circuit breakers? My car didn't have them when I got it.
It doesn't (yet) have power windows, but it does have rear window defroster (which isn't working).
I've installed power door locks but are not wired up yet...
The original Canister Style (OEM in our Cars) are difficult to find in a 35A version.
30A Versions are available from Bussmann and Litelfuse (the 2 largest Fuse Companies in the world).
Grote has a 35A model: 82-2200.
The more modern version of ATC/ ATO Circuit Breakers are taller and do not fit well in our IPBEC.
The original Canister Style (OEM in our Cars) are difficult to find in a 35A version.
30A Versions are available from Bussmann and Litelfuse (the 2 largest Fuse Companies in the world).
Grote has a 35A model: 82-2200.
The more modern version of ATC/ ATO Circuit Breakers are taller and do not fit well in our IPBEC.
The circuit breaker topic seems oddly familiar
On the new thirdgen's the power is coming from the PWR ACC circuit breaker Wayback Machine (archive.org)
The circuit breaker topic seems oddly familiar
On the new thirdgen's the power is coming from the PWR ACC circuit breaker Wayback Machine (archive.org)
Oh well I’m back and I’ve made everything worse. Big old SOS here:
Before searching for a Pac-Con II connector to tap into the kick panel power brick, I needed to verify the seats I had actually worked first so I temporarily wired a 30A inline fuse to the IGN tap with a spade connector for key on power and grounded it to the stud the seat is bolted to.
good news is the seat works. But after a minute of testing it out, I blew something - heard a click and the seat stopped but the inline was fine.
Come to find out my seat belt buzzer/ light is out, choke light remains on with engine running, tach and fuel are out, but oil pressure does work. Power windows, all lights, and locks still work and engine still fires/runs fine.
The breakers never reset and I don’t see any blown fuses. What could I have possibly ruined here? Thanks, you guys are life savers. Let this be a cautionary tale!
Last edited by DoctorStoopid; Nov 26, 2022 at 05:30 PM.
And to think visually inspecting it simply didnt do the trick . Youre absolutely right, it was the GAGES fuse.
I need to wire this thing up correctly or I'll fry myself, but I cannot find those PAC-CON II connectors anywhere and salvaged harnesses are expensive online, impossible to find anywhere near me. Is there an elegant solution to this or am I stuck shelling out big bucks for a third gen harness on ebay? Otherwise Ill just have to leave them hooked up to the BATT terminal on the fuse box and try not to use the seat too much except in small bursts to keep from blowing something.
In the Future I will have a New Interior/ Dash Harness (with SEALED C100, SEALED Relay-Fuse Panel, and SEALED PCM/ Passenger Side Fender Pass-Through) available for our Cars...
It is just taking forever to make it universal for all Model Years and RPOs less Berlinetta.